Grading Final Grading

   / Final Grading #1  

dieselmadman

Bronze Member
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
52
Location
Just outside of Boston
Tractor
2007 Kubota BX24
Hi,

I am now using my BX24 for some grading work I have. Unlike my old Wheelhorse and JD455, the bucket, as it currently is positioned, does not sit completely flat when the bucket is down. Consequently, as I am drawing back the grade going in reverse, the back edge of the bucket does not scrape along the ground to grade, it rides up a bit so that the point actually touching the ground is not the edge. I don't really like it too much. My question is whether or not the bucket can be adjusted so that the back edge will sit flat to the ground. I know many will say I should be using the cutting edge for grading with the bucket vertical, and I do do that sometimes...I guess I am just used to using that back edge to get a nice even grade. Any thoughts? Thanks, in advance.
Dennis
 
   / Final Grading #2  
I read this four times. I am confused. It seems that you want to back drag with the rear of the bucket. That should be no problem. It will wear out the bucket. Why do you not want to back drag with the bucket at a small angle and use the hardened part of the cutting edge as opposed to the non hardened back of the bucket? The leveled area will be the same. The bucket should be level when all the way down. That confuses me more.
 
   / Final Grading #3  
Something is wrong, I'd suspect. I've backdragged using the back edge of the bucket to get a nice smooth surface. That has always given me the most finished results when using a bucket because it knocks down the high points and re-distributes the dirt to the low points without digging further down, when in the float position.

I've done it with the following machines:

Yanmar 140D, Case IH DX24E, Kubota BX22, Kubota L35, New Holland L95 TLB, Kubota B7800 (on Saturday - it did a beautiful job, too).

Based on my experience, I would think that ANY FEL should be capable of doing that.

Set the bucket to the level you want it, then float the FEL arms (the float function works on the arms, not the bucket, so although the FEL is floating, the bucket position stays where you last set it).
 
   / Final Grading #4  
From memory, I know I can set the bucket down on level concrete and the rear of the bucket will touch, but it probably would not go down much lower than level with the bottom of the tractor tires. If you want the bucket down any lower you need to curl down where the cutting edge will drop down below the surface.

Marv
 
   / Final Grading
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks, for your replies. I am surprised more don't grade with the back edge of the bucket. I agree that it gives a finer grade when done properly. As far as wearing out the bucket, man you have to do a lot of grading to worry about that. When my bucket on this tractor is flat on the ground, the back edge is slightly elevated, not touching the ground as I think it shoud. I am going to see if there is a way to adjust it. Grading with the cutting edge is nice, but final grading with the back bucket edge is finer...:D
 
   / Final Grading #6  
dieselmadman said:
Thanks, for your replies. I am surprised more don't grade with the back edge of the bucket. I agree that it gives a finer grade when done properly. As far as wearing out the bucket, man you have to do a lot of grading to worry about that. When my bucket on this tractor is flat on the ground, the back edge is slightly elevated, not touching the ground as I think it shoud. I am going to see if there is a way to adjust it. Grading with the cutting edge is nice, but final grading with the back bucket edge is finer...:D
Backdragging with the back or heel of the bucket works well on the BX 24. The heel will go about 2" below the tires with the bucket fully curled. Sounds like you've discovered that you can get a similar result going forward with the bucket curled all the way. (It works great but what would we call it, frontdragging??) Dozing or backdragging with the bucket in a dumped position can put an extreme load on the fully extended, curl hydraulic cylinder and is specifically "outlawed" in the owner's manual. The sides of the bucket extend slightly beyond the bottom. That's why the heel doesn't touch when the bucket is set flat on the concrete. The protruding edges simply press into the dirt when you're working. I'm not sure what you intend to adjust... I agree you'd have to do a lot of backdragging to wear out the bottom of the bucket. If you see hole appearing it would be pretty easy to weld on a peice of flat stock. Someone mentioned a hardened cutting edge... As far as I can tell the edge is not hardened, at least not much. It wears very quickly if you do much clean-up on asphalt or concrete. I'm just careful to keep the bucket nearly flat when scraping pavement and it won't be a problem for a long time. Some day when I'm really bored, I'll probably pull the bucket off and lay a couple of beads of hard facing. That'll be a lot easier than replacing the cutting edge if I don't wait too long.
 
   / Final Grading #7  
I would have thought that the back edge of the bucket should reach the ground but I have never run a BX tractor. Why not weld a section of angle iron on the rear of the bucket for back dragging. It would also be a wear point that could be replaced if that were ever needed.

MarkV
 
   / Final Grading #8  
I back drag all the time with my BX24 using the heel of the bucket. I curl the bucket up, not quite all the way, but probably pretty close and float. Works great. Most of the time I will grab a bucket full of rocks to put some weight on the float as well. Help packing down new gradings and I can put the bucket on the other side of a small pile of dirt and pull back through it, redistributing it in the low spots. With out the weight in the bucket, it seems to just go over the mounds and high spots.
 
   / Final Grading #9  
Several have made mention in this thread to floating the bucket. Sorry for such a basic question, but being new, how do you "float" the bucket? And does that simply mean you are letting it ride down on the surface?
 
   / Final Grading #10  
Jam the control lever forward all the way into the "float" detent. The stick will stay there. This allows the up/down control cylinders to de-pressurize and allow the bucket to better follow the land. In essence, you could pick up the front of the bucket and lift it over your head by hand in this setting (if you were Arnie). You will still be able to control bucket curl to fine-tune your earth cut.
 

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