Finally got around to checking the rim bolts on my P 7010

ozley · Aug 24, 2012

joshuabardwell said:
I think this is common when new parts are first assembled. It's why they say to check your lug nuts 50 and 100 miles after rotating your tires. Stuff needs time to "settle in". If the bolts were constantly backing out, that'd be another story, but that's not what's happening here.

That's how I see it.

Gary Fowler · Aug 24, 2012

I think mine were just not tightened properly when installed. The ones easily seen and easy to get to, were pretty darned tight but I could get another 1/8 turn or so. They ones way up behind the fuel tank were the loose ones and could barely get my hand up to reach them and only an open endwrench would go on due to the clearance between the tank. At least one bolt was plenty tight and I couldnt turn it any at all.

joshuabardwell · Aug 24, 2012

Gary Fowler said:
I think mine were just not tightened properly when installed. The ones easily seen and easy to get to, were pretty darned tight but I could get another 1/8 turn or so. They ones way up behind the fuel tank were the loose ones and could barely get my hand up to reach them and only an open endwrench would go on due to the clearance between the tank. At least one bolt was plenty tight and I couldnt turn it any at all.

I think it's unlikely that most people are going to dangerously over-tighten their bolts/nuts without a really long breaker bar or something, but I was still pretty surprised at how little torque the lug nuts on my trailer and truck (just for example) took. I had been cranking them down as tight as I could go because I figured they were supposed to be really tight! Once I got a torque wrench, I was amazed. I had probably been torquing them down to, say, 160-180 ft-lbs. The trailer was supposed to be around 80 ft-lbs and the truck around 120, if memory serves. Point is: "as tight as you can get it by hand" may be tighter than it's intended to go. I suppose better too tight than too loose, though.

Gary Fowler · Aug 24, 2012

I think the guys that put the tires on my trailer used a 1" impact. When I had a flat tire, It was all I could do to break them loose with a four way lug wrench. When they finally broke loose it was one of those POW, screech noises that nearly fracture your wrist when they come loose. At my age, I may have to get a good 3/4" impact to get them loose as my 1/2" just wont cut it for tightening or loosing anything more than about a half or 5/8 normally tightened bolt. My nephew , about 6 foot 4 and 260 pounds with a 52" chest had a Tbird Ford once that neither of use could break the lug bolts on with my 4 way lug wrench. I couldnt budge it and he was just twisted the shaft of the wrench. Finally had to air him up and send him to a tire repair shop to get it off. I was really surprised that those small lug bolts held that much force.

joshuabardwell · Aug 24, 2012

Gary Fowler said:
I think the guys that put the tires on my trailer used a 1" impact. When I had a flat tire, It was all I could do to break them loose with a four way lug wrench.

This really ticks me off, for two reasons. One, if you get a flat and can't get the spare on, you are boned. Two, if you over-torque the nuts, there is a non-zero chance that you will shear the studs. Bad news!

The only reason I can think of why automotive shops do this is that they know you're not going to check the nuts at 50 and 100 miles, so they just crank the heck out of them so they stay tight.

SPYDERLK · Aug 25, 2012

ozley said:
What tractor should I buy next that does not have design issues or miss spec'd assembles?

I started a thread on design defects a while back. Nobody was interested. Most seem to need to be euphoric about their machine and to blame themselves for breaking it. The way to end design issues is to stop putting up with them. ... In answer to your question: if you can tolerate a 3ph that wont raise in tiny increments, buy one of the L Kubs in my sig. I havnt seen any other design defect on them. MUCH better than average.
larry

creekbend · Aug 25, 2012

When I took off my grill guard to have expanded metal welded on it, there were 4 bolts. I raised the FEL and braced it. I then approached the grill guard while sitting in the wheelchair, and loosened the bolts using a ratchet with extension and a 24mm socket. The bolts were on tight, but I managed to take the grill guard off. I tightened the bolts the same way when I put the grill guard back on. BTW, I don't own a torque wrench.

joshuabardwell · Aug 25, 2012

creekbend said:
BTW, I don't own a torque wrench.

For what it's worth, it's an excellent investment if you intend to maintain vehicles. The peace of mind I get knowing that my lug nuts are on at the right torque is worth the cost of the wrench alone. If all you're doing is taking off and putting on your grill guard, hand tight is probably fine. The click-type ratcheting ones are a bit pricey, but I got one of the beam-type ones pretty cheap at Tractor Supply.

Gary Fowler · Aug 31, 2012

Speaking of design defects, I posted a while back about breaking the drawbar attachment bracket that fastens the end of the drawbar. Well I found the broken pieces and welded them back together and it has been setting in the shop for nearly a year to be putback on. BIL wanted me to pull a 15 ton fertilizer spreader and I had forgotten than I needed to order the pin and clip that I couldnt find when it broke. I went to the dealer and was ordering the pin at $32 for a 1 1/8"x3" pin and inquired about the bracket. It was $158 list price so I inquired about warranty for this. They checked and sure enough LS warranted it and will not only get the little bracket but also a redesigned back bracket that the drawbar rests and swings on. Luck me in asking the question but not so lucky as I had just put the bracket back on 3 days ago. NOW I have it back off and in my truck to return to the dealer along with the support bracket. That will be my job for next week if the new brackets come in.
Evidently there was some other folks with the same problem.