Finally I now have my 640, now what?

[Oldtractorfixer]

and by the way, 12 volt parts are cheaper.

 

[Soundguy]

you can't guess!

and your haphazard method of shorting posts can burn out a 40$ regulator.

you NEVER short a A circuit field tab to anything other than ground.. putting power to a A circuit reg will be sure to damage the vreg, weld the points.. etc.

to motor a circuit.. jump bat to arm ( across cutout ).. in a good world it will spin without field hooked up from residual field magnetism.. but 50ys old. you want the vreg hooked up as it's field contacts will be closed at rest. Motoring the genny tests it and polarizes it.

8n used A circuit

B circuit regs ( naa+ ) you should motor the genny by jumping bat to arm, and then jumping bat ( or arm ), to field.

again.. this motors and polarizes.

Remember. on a A circuit system, one side of the field is hooked to the armature. On a B circuit system, one side of the field is hooked to ground.

In both cases, field contacts are closed at startup, and the system bootstraps itself up starting with residual magnetism in the field shoes, and that generates low field current which due to the reg field contacts is allowed to cascade. more field current produces more armature voltage.. which then produces more field current. this bootstrap continues untill a threshold voltage is reached that allows the cutout to pull in and then charge the battery.

Thanks souNdguy,

Going back some 50 years as I recall, after putting new brushes in a generator you would mount the generator, hook up the wires and then short across the"reverse current relay" and field terminals on the regulator to "motor the generator prior to installing the fan belt. This was to set the polarity on the generator. But, I will do it the way you recommend after I get a 6v battery and make sure the generator is 6v.
I just ordered a proofmeter, cable, brake lock and gasket kit for the pump and hyd lift cover kit and a new ammeter. I ordered the stuff from yesterdaystractor.com which is the place I got my overhaul manual. Before I tear into the lift I want to put the proper O rings on the hyd manifold in hopes that will cure the lift problem. Since removing the manifold was the only thing the clutch guy did, I am hoping that will fix the problem.
Again, thank you for all of your help - I reckon I will need to drive to FL and take you out for a cup of coffee to compensate you for your time and talent.

Russ

 

[russ207]

OK got it. Thanks, souNdguy - no wonder my high school buddies would not let me touch their gennys the second time.
Also I appreciate the advice on throwing parts at the problem. My budget is very tight but I do want to end up with an original config.(6v system) The tractor arrived without proofmeter and ammeter. And the gasket kits were so inexpensive I figured it would be worth it to put them in the box to save on overall shipping cost.

Oldtractorfixer - thanks for your input. My wife is from Eugene so she will appreciate knowing a fellow Duck (or is it Beaver?) is helping me sort through the issues.

 

[Soundguy]

ammeter is a good tool to have. shows condition of battery too.. high charge rate for a charged battery can mean shorted cell.. etc.

 

[russ207]

I received the parts from yesterdaystractor. I picked up a 6v battery from Batteries Plus and installed it with positive ground. Everything worked fine and the tractor now starts and runs as it should. I installed the proofmeter and the new drive cable -it worked for about a minute and then quit. I disconnected the drive cable from the proofmeter and the cable was not turning. I shut the tractor down and played with the drive cable. I could get it to catch in the hyd pump but it would not stay engaged. I am not sure if I have a bad drive cable or if the slot in the hyd pump is worn. Any suggestions as how I should proceed?
I received the Hyd pump gasket set so I will tackle the lift problem next. I will drain the hyd flud, pull the manifold and replace the O rings. Then I will refill the hyd fluid and try priming the pump again. Anything I should watch out for?
Thanks again for your help.

Russ

 

[Soundguy]

does the end of the cable have the lil mashed tang on it?

 

[russ207]

It does have the smashed tang -
I notice that yesterdays tractor has a note about full warranty so I am wondering if the after market cable is not quite as good as the OEM - the aftermarket one is priced 12.00 and the OEM is 13.95 -

 

[Soundguy]

hmm.. not sure. i usually try oem if it is available.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

There are two sizes if tang drive see if you can determine if you have the correct size. Also look in th drive hole and make sure it is not for a square drive. If memory is correct one tang is .187 and the other is .203

 

[russ207]

Thanks guys! I am going to order the OEM cable - I knew better when I ordered the aftermarket one. I will hang it on the shop wall as a reminder to THINK! when ordering parts.

Russ