Finally took delivery of M7060 and BH 1812 Batwing cutter!

[rustyshakelford]

Yes I have. Sure is nice having 12' of cut per pass. Does a nice job! The fuel economy is pretty good with the new tractor. It burns about half the diesel then the MX5100 I traded in for this one.

That's great! I'm in the same boat as you except I'm still working in theory. This tractor should be able to do more work per gallon. The thing that prompted this besides the 5055 being a lemon was it took 15 hours to mow 23 acres of pasture and I burned 50 gallons of diesel. Absolutely unacceptable. The new setup should be 4-6 hrs max and I'm hoping about 20 gallons or less! Any more pics yet, love seeing everyone batwing and tractors!

Leave it to JD to figure out a way to mow walls. Unbelievable- what a waste.

Haha. Always innovating

Brett

 

[Herkypilot]

That's great! I'm in the same boat as you except I'm still working in theory. This tractor should be able to do more work per gallon. The thing that prompted this besides the 5055 being a lemon was it took 15 hours to mow 23 acres of pasture and I burned 50 gallons of diesel. Absolutely unacceptable. The new setup should be 4-6 hrs max and I'm hoping about 20 gallons or less! Any more pics yet, love seeing everyone batwing and tractors
Brett

50 Gallons!?!:shocked: I've never used that much for one mowing using a 6' BH mowing 20 acres.

With my new setup I used 10 gallons. The constant RPM feature on the M7060 is great. I haven't tried the Econ PTO yet. Really impressed with the M7060 HDC 12

HP

 

[rustyshakelford]

50 Gallons!?!:shocked: I've never used that much for one mowing using a 6' BH mowing 20 acres.

With my new setup I used 10 gallons. The constant RPM feature on the M7060 is great. I haven't tried the Econ PTO yet. Really impressed with the M7060 HDC 12

HP

Yup! Was terrible. It was a 55hp with an mx7 (7' shredder) That's good news about your fuel usage. I'll probably run normal pro for the batwing and drop down to ePTO for my mx8. Glad your liking it, looks great

Brett

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Learn something new everyday, I didn't know there was such a thing as economy PTO until I looked it up after reading it on here. I don't believe my tractor has it but if it does that would be useful for my roller mill.

Edit: I think it was offered on the larger 4 series tractors, the button I believe it is, is blank in my cab.

I'm missing the Diverter switch and the eThrottle switch.

 

[mbu]

Herkypilot,

I'm curious...

What is this "cover" for on your LA1154 loader (circled in yellow on attached photo)? Today I looked at all the M7060's on the dealers lot and none of them had it.

 

[Herkypilot]

Herkypilot,

I'm curious...

What is this "cover" for on your LA1154 loader (circled in yellow on attached photo)? Today I looked at all the M7060's on the dealers lot and none of them had it.

That's part of the KSR system on the loader or Kubota Shockless Ride. Supposed to counter the bounce when carrying a load on your loader.

HP

 

[mbu]

Thanks for your reply!

Mike.

 

[Jay4200]

Yes I have. Sure is nice having 12' of cut per pass. Does a nice job! The fuel economy is pretty good with the new tractor. It burns about half the diesel then the MX5100 I traded in for this one.

I swear fuel usage is inversely proportional to engine size for some bizarre reason. My BX2200 easily burns twice the fuel per hour as my L4200.

 

[Herkypilot]

Admittedly, a 12 foot batwing BH is not coming close to taxing the engine on the M7060. It could easily run a 15 foot BW. Maybe that's the reason - how much torque your tractor must use to perform the work you ar doing.

HP

 

[Magicman710]

Bush Hog is one of the few mfg's that I know of that say to use the whole bolt/washers/lock nut combo for the hitch.

I've always used a regular 1" hitch pin and have never had an issue.

 

[Herkypilot]

Bush Hog is one of the few mfg's that I know of that say to use the whole bolt/washers/lock nut combo for the hitch.

I've always used a regular 1" hitch pin and have never had an issue.

Well I for one agree with them. It's much more secure with the 1" grade 8 bolt. Just having a pin with a cotter really looks flimsy to me. I can visualize what would happen if that pin gives way while I'm mowing - driving away from a running batwing BH with the separating PTO could make a mess.

 

[jdtractor]

I pull a woods 15' with a 15/16 hitch pin with cotter pin. Have lost a few cotter pins but no problems. My batwing has a safety tow chain also attached.... I mow steep rough hillsides along with level bottom ground. I've never had a problem but I must admit that the thought has crossed my mind more the once ... about the pin being heavy enough. I think after reading this post I'm going to use a grade 8-10 bolt with lock washer and nut along with a cotter pin below the nut. That sounds like the way to go ... because if pin ever broke or .... it wouldn't be pretty.. especially on the ground i mow . Lol....

 

[Herkypilot]

Yes, I switched it out when I first received it and don't have to worry about it at all. Very secure hookup now.

 

[sixdogs]

I pull a woods 15' with a 15/16 hitch pin with cotter pin. Have lost a few cotter pins but no problems. My batwing has a safety tow chain also attached.... I mow steep rough hillsides along with level bottom ground. I've never had a problem but I must admit that the thought has crossed my mind more the once ... about the pin being heavy enough. I think after reading this post I'm going to use a grade 8-10 bolt with lock washer and nut along with a cotter pin below the nut. That sounds like the way to go ... because if pin ever broke or .... it wouldn't be pretty.. especially on the ground i mow . Lol....

Pin bolts are grade 5 so will the grade 8 bolt be so hard as to wear the hitch and not the pin?

 

[ovrszd]

Thanks for the comments. oosik, yes, I intend to move the loader cylinders to the power position when I get a chance.

HP

I'll comment on this. I use the snot outta my FEL. Most times with a Grapple.

I run it in the "height" position. I don't need extra lift height. If lifts considerably less weight in the height position. I do it to minimize the stress on the FEL frame. It puts the cylinder in less of an advantage to get leverage. So less leverage = less stress on the FEL frame and any attachment that might be used and less stress on the tractor front end.

 

[ovrszd]

Pin bolts are grade 5 so will the grade 8 bolt be so hard as to wear the hitch and not the pin?

Yes.....

 

[Magicman710]

I pull a woods 15' with a 15/16 hitch pin with cotter pin. Have lost a few cotter pins but no problems. My batwing has a safety tow chain also attached.... I mow steep rough hillsides along with level bottom ground. I've never had a problem but I must admit that the thought has crossed my mind more the once ... about the pin being heavy enough. I think after reading this post I'm going to use a grade 8-10 bolt with lock washer and nut along with a cotter pin below the nut. That sounds like the way to go ... because if pin ever broke or .... it wouldn't be pretty.. especially on the ground i mow . Lol....

If the hitch pin is the same grade as a bolt of the same size, you aren't going to be any more or less likely to break either one. Hitch pins are designed for.. hitches?


That being said the retainer (a cotter pin or lynch pin) coming out could be of concern for most hitches like on a a grain cart or a set of harrows, but the way the weight of batwings are distributed I don't think it is as much of an issue. Batwings hitches don't hop. At least, I've never seen one do it. So the chances of the pin coming out the top even if there wasn't some sort of retainer pin is probably really, really low.


Of course, there's nothing wrong with using the bolt and nut setup if that's what you feel comfortable with. There's no such thing as being too careful.

 

[Buxus]

I'll comment on this. I use the snot outta my FEL. Most times with a Grapple.

I run it in the "height" position. I don't need extra lift height. If lifts considerably less weight in the height position. I do it to minimize the stress on the FEL frame. It puts the cylinder in less of an advantage to get leverage. So less leverage = less stress on the FEL frame and any attachment that might be used and less stress on the tractor front end.

I love this site. Great idea. I will be moving the pins on my new M7060 once I check the "brake linkage repair" if I ever get back out to the property. Feels like forever, but it's only been a week. Hopefully on Friday...Fortunately the snow just missed our part of Maryland and calling for a dry, balmy 40 degrees on my day off.

 

[ovrszd]

If the hitch pin is the same grade as a bolt of the same size, you aren't going to be any more or less likely to break either one. Hitch pins are designed for.. hitches?


That being said the retainer (a cotter pin or lynch pin) coming out could be of concern for most hitches like on a a grain cart or a set of harrows, but the way the weight of batwings are distributed I don't think it is as much of an issue. Batwings hitches don't hop. At least, I've never seen one do it. So the chances of the pin coming out the top even if there wasn't some sort of retainer pin is probably really, really low.


Of course, there's nothing wrong with using the bolt and nut setup if that's what you feel comfortable with. There's no such thing as being too careful.

And that's what the manufacturer is doing by recommending bolt/nut.

 

[Herkypilot]

Pin bolts are grade 5 so will the grade 8 bolt be so hard as to wear the hitch and not the pin?

The draw bar will essentially last the life of the tractor mowing about 4 times a year, so I'm not sure why that would be relevant.