agcomike
Silver Member
does anyone know of simpliest/best way to sharpen a finish mower blade I've read a bunch of ways everyone of them is diffrent...
thanks
thanks
Finish mower blade sharpening?
- Thread starter agcomike
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Casimir
Gold Member
Simplest? Buy a new blade /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Easiest? I haven't found one /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
What I do is:
Remove the blade(s)
Clamp it in a vise
Use a hand grinder or file to sharpen each side (only the top side of the cutting edge, except for raised ridges caused by hitting rocks or ?)
Check the balance by running a round rod through the center hole
Take small amounts off the heavy end until the blade is balanced as best you can. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the more out of balance it is, the sooner it will cause problems with bearings and anything else affected by the vibration.
Hope this helps /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Easiest? I haven't found one /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
What I do is:
Remove the blade(s)
Clamp it in a vise
Use a hand grinder or file to sharpen each side (only the top side of the cutting edge, except for raised ridges caused by hitting rocks or ?)
Check the balance by running a round rod through the center hole
Take small amounts off the heavy end until the blade is balanced as best you can. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the more out of balance it is, the sooner it will cause problems with bearings and anything else affected by the vibration.
Hope this helps /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
theboman
Veteran Member
It's a two step process.
1. Buy new blades.
2. Remove old blades.
3. Install new blades.
4. Take old blades to a lawn mower repair place and have them shapen and balance the blades (the have the correct tools).
The next time you replace the blades use the ones you had sharpened and repeat the process.
1. Buy new blades.
2. Remove old blades.
3. Install new blades.
4. Take old blades to a lawn mower repair place and have them shapen and balance the blades (the have the correct tools).
The next time you replace the blades use the ones you had sharpened and repeat the process.
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
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I agree with the bowman.....
Buy a new set and keep the old ones for rotating back on the mower the next time you need sharp blades.
Buy a new set and keep the old ones for rotating back on the mower the next time you need sharp blades.
Anonymous Poster
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Oooops..... theboman.
Spelling wasn't my strong suit.
Spelling wasn't my strong suit.
ns_in_tex
Platinum Member
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- East Texas
- Tractor
- Kubota L4610 HSTC, International 2400, Hesston 1280,
the best way I have found with a rear finish mower is install an eye on the rear of the mower. Pull under winch. Disconnect top link & PTO. Leave lower links connected. Hook winch in eye & pick rear of mower up till it is vertical & blades are waist high. Remove blades standing straight up with impact. Put blades in vise & sharpen with angle grinder. Balance & straighten as needed. Reinstall.
Nice to have extra blades. I purchased 3 extra blades sets & 1 belt set at the time of buying mower. 106.00 for all in the deal for my 7' First Choice mower.
Nice to have extra blades. I purchased 3 extra blades sets & 1 belt set at the time of buying mower. 106.00 for all in the deal for my 7' First Choice mower.
OkieG
Veteran Member
Mike,
I do what Casimir and ns do... a vice and an angle grinder.
The first couple times I sharpened I was concerned about balancing blades. But, the amount removed by light grinding passes is so small compared to the mass of the blade that I don't bother checking balance anymore. I just grind +/- equal light passes on each cutting edge. My deck runs smooth as can be.
If you ever look at a set of razor sharp blades after a mowing or two, you wouldn't bother trying to get the edges back to razor sharp. I don't try to grind out major dings...I just get the majority of the blade to serviceable sharpness and go with it.
OkieG
I do what Casimir and ns do... a vice and an angle grinder.
The first couple times I sharpened I was concerned about balancing blades. But, the amount removed by light grinding passes is so small compared to the mass of the blade that I don't bother checking balance anymore. I just grind +/- equal light passes on each cutting edge. My deck runs smooth as can be.
If you ever look at a set of razor sharp blades after a mowing or two, you wouldn't bother trying to get the edges back to razor sharp. I don't try to grind out major dings...I just get the majority of the blade to serviceable sharpness and go with it.
OkieG
Anonymous Poster
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When I worked in a mower shop during high school we sharpened the blades on a grinding wheel. We hand held the blade and put a continuous bevel grind on the cutting (top) surface so the customer could touch up the blade with a file if they wanted to. Charged a buck for the job!
We sharpened our rental mower blades everytime the mower came back from the field, and always checked and adjusted the balance of the blade.
A slightly out of balance blade will put lots of stress and vibration into the bearings and deck, although you may not be able to feel it.
On my MMM I usually only sharpen the blades when I have the mower deck off to put the tiller on (don't ask). I can really see the difference in the cut after sharpening. I also straighten the blades at the same time. I won't get off the mower for a branch smaller then a couple of inches in diameter /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
The mower makes chips out of the branches, but it tends to bend the tips of the blades up after a while.
I would not be the one to recomend this practice to anyone, but my MMM is doing fine after over twenty years of "chipping", mostly hemlock.
We sharpened our rental mower blades everytime the mower came back from the field, and always checked and adjusted the balance of the blade.
A slightly out of balance blade will put lots of stress and vibration into the bearings and deck, although you may not be able to feel it.
On my MMM I usually only sharpen the blades when I have the mower deck off to put the tiller on (don't ask). I can really see the difference in the cut after sharpening. I also straighten the blades at the same time. I won't get off the mower for a branch smaller then a couple of inches in diameter /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
The mower makes chips out of the branches, but it tends to bend the tips of the blades up after a while.
I would not be the one to recomend this practice to anyone, but my MMM is doing fine after over twenty years of "chipping", mostly hemlock.
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
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A nice big fine mill file and a vise. Sharpens them nicely and doesn't overheat the blade.
DaveL
DaveL
pennwalk
Veteran Member
I was using Bo's method till my cheap alarm went off. It was costing me $3 a blade and we have several mowers. So I have been experimenting with several different sharping systems. What I like best is the craftsman 4 inch belt sander using number 60 or 80 belts. What I really like about it is that it is almost impossible to burn the blade. My bench grinder will burn the edge in a heartbeat. I guess that getting the exact angle isn't esential as long as you are in the ballpark. I have never been able to find out what the exact angle is anyway. I suspect that the outside tip of the blade is the most important. On my blades the outside edge is always rounded off by use (rocks). I wonder what is the best way to keep it sharp?
Chris
Chris
djradz
Veteran Member
I gave up on the bench grinder years ago and purchased a 4" / 4-1/2" angle grinder. Our local shop used one and it looked pretty easy to me, so ever since, I've used one to sharpen all the mower and even the brush hog blades. Just last year I moved up to a 7" angle grinder for the brush hog blades, just to speed up the task.
Speaking of sharpening blades on a brushhog (aka bushhog), how important is it? I know that sharp blades give a nicer cut on a finishing mower, but how about on a brushhog where you are usually cutting heavy stuff? The way I use my brushhog, the blades don't stay sharp for long, so I don't even try to keep them sharp. Am I making a mistake? Since I don't have much seat time (yet) with my brushhog, I would appreciate any advice from folks with experience. Thanks. Ken in Mississippi
Bird
Rest in Peace
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Am I making a mistake? )</font>
Nope, not as long as it's doing what you want it to do. How sharp is sharp? The sharper (thinner) the edge, the more quickly and easily it'll get dinged up, so if you're cutting brush and saplings, too sharp is not good. If you're only cutting grass, you might want it sharper. In fact, if you're cutting small trees and saplings, the duller blade may shatter the stump instead of a clean cut and cause it to rot out faster, meaning duller is better.
Nope, not as long as it's doing what you want it to do. How sharp is sharp? The sharper (thinner) the edge, the more quickly and easily it'll get dinged up, so if you're cutting brush and saplings, too sharp is not good. If you're only cutting grass, you might want it sharper. In fact, if you're cutting small trees and saplings, the duller blade may shatter the stump instead of a clean cut and cause it to rot out faster, meaning duller is better.
djradz
Veteran Member
You really mean, aka: rotary cutter don't you! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Anyway, Unless I know I'm off to cut an area with lots of bolders, I try to keep them reasonably sharp. Nowadays, I'm not doing much clearing and mostly am just maintaining trails and fields, with the occasional small tree that works its way into my path. For this, I keep the edge a little duller than my RFM and sharpened at a blunter angle. The blunter angle helps the blades to last longer yet allows me to keep it pretty sharp. Especially in high grass and weeds, I think the sharper blade greatly reduces the load on the cutter and tractor and leaves a much cleaner cut.
BillyP
Veteran Member
The sharper the blade the better but... The sharper the blade, the faster they dull.
On a rotary cutter, sharpness isn't that important. You're not looking for that manicured look.
On a finish mower, sharpness is more important. The sharper the blade, the better the cut. But remember, the sharper the blade, the faster it dulls. I know some people who sharpen their blades after each mowing. It all depends on how often you want to buy blades.
On a rotary cutter, sharpness isn't that important. You're not looking for that manicured look.
On a finish mower, sharpness is more important. The sharper the blade, the better the cut. But remember, the sharper the blade, the faster it dulls. I know some people who sharpen their blades after each mowing. It all depends on how often you want to buy blades.
pennwalk
Veteran Member
Ken,
When I bought the new blades for the KK rotary cutter from TSC I was surprised to find that the edge was flat maybe as much as 1/8 inch. When I compared the old and new I realized that the old weren't that bad so I have a set of backup blades now. I guess if all you ever cut was grass you could sharpen them.
Chris
When I bought the new blades for the KK rotary cutter from TSC I was surprised to find that the edge was flat maybe as much as 1/8 inch. When I compared the old and new I realized that the old weren't that bad so I have a set of backup blades now. I guess if all you ever cut was grass you could sharpen them.
Chris
OkieG
Veteran Member
<font color="blue"> ...and always checked and adjusted the balance of the blade.
A slightly out of balance blade will put lots of stress and vibration into the bearings and deck, although you may not be able to feel it.
</font>
The first couple sharpenings I would use a nail clamped horizontal sticking out the side of a vice as a pivot to set the newly sharpened blade on. I have decided this method is not very precise. The blades always tested out as balanced. There must be some degree of imbalance, but it hasn't shown up for me with this crude method. So, I basically don't bother anymore. I would bother, though, if I had a better way to do it.
What did you do to test blade balance? There must be more accurate methods.
OkieG
A slightly out of balance blade will put lots of stress and vibration into the bearings and deck, although you may not be able to feel it.
</font>
The first couple sharpenings I would use a nail clamped horizontal sticking out the side of a vice as a pivot to set the newly sharpened blade on. I have decided this method is not very precise. The blades always tested out as balanced. There must be some degree of imbalance, but it hasn't shown up for me with this crude method. So, I basically don't bother anymore. I would bother, though, if I had a better way to do it.
What did you do to test blade balance? There must be more accurate methods.
OkieG
djradz
Veteran Member
Most stores that sell replacement blades for any mowers will also sell a simple little blade balance. They cost less than $5 and lool like an upside down toy top.
PBMAX
Platinum Member
That was part of my ? I've seen those kits at the depot with the blade sharpener and the balancer. But I us a grinder on my scott mower if the blades are worth the time. But not having a RMF mower yet (but am looking for a good used one)I was wondering if the blades would be to thick for that little sharpennig stone in the kit? Has any body tried one? Sence it is double sided it would be nice... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif or is a nice paper wait?
