Finish vs Rotary Mower

[familyman]

Thanks to all for the replies /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif!
I guess I really would prefer a finish mower. Next question then (as if you didn't expect it!); for a 5' width rear discharge, which models are good buys? -- well built, long lasting, reasonably priced? What about the King Kutter units? I'll spend what I need to, but don't like to spend dumb /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 5' width rear discharge, which models are good buys? )</font>

You have lots of options.. from the economy lines like KK / howse.. etc.. to the lienbach, and bush hog brands which are higher quality. Dealer brands like JD NH kubota also.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( well built, long lasting, reasonably priced )</font>

HAHa.. you generally don't see those 3 words used together on a finish mower. if it's built like a bulldog.. it isn't reasonably priced!

For a 5' mower.. even an economy model..expect to pay for it. 4' KK are as high as 999$ And it just goes up from there..

That said... with little lawn to cut.. you may be fine with an economy model. i havn't used their finish mowers.. but have used their rotary cutters as well as howse cutters. they do reasonable well.

I do have an old woods belly mower that came with an allis chalmers i bought. it's old but works...

woods and schulte are good names like bush hog.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[Pooh_Bear]

I just bought a used finish mower for $250.
Watch for a good used one to get.
Not much that can go wrong with one.

Pooh Bear

 

[Soundguy]

awesome deal!

Soundguy

 

[Pooh_Bear]

It needs the blades sharpened but otherwise mows great.
The guy bought a new belt for it and I helped him put it on.
I'm very happy with this thing.

Pooh Bear

 

[RalphVa]

How easy is it to get the blades off and on a rear PTO type finish mower? Can you flop them end to end maybe? Do you have to put them up on something?

A Scag ZTR that I used on church property for 4 or 5 years had a hand crank to raise the 3 blade deck. All blades were through-bolted. It was about a 5 minute or less job to raise the deck and remove or replace the blades.

On my LX4 cutter, you have to remove the tail wheel assembly to get to a peep hole to access the bolts that hold the floppy blades onto the main blade carrier.

On my Gravely, one raises the deck by hand, prop it up and crawl underneath to unbolt the blade(s) (got 2 crossed now on same shaft).

Ralph

 

[Inspector507]

On my RFM I back into the garage and disconnect the top link, leaving the mower attached to the lift arms. Using a winch or come-along in the rafters of the garage I raise the mower almost vertical and remove the blades and scrape the deck.

 

[Tom_H]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( We've all known people (sometimes ourselves) to whom all motorhomes are "Winnebago", all facial tissue is "Kleenex", etc.)</font>

Don't forget "Sheetrock" for all drywall, gypsum board, etc.

 

[Tom_H]

I have 5 acres and a BX2200. I use a 60" MMM on the lawn and a 42" Heavy Duty GearMore rough cutter out in the tall weeds. A brush hog usually runs about $700-$800 for models in the 36", 40", 42", 48", 60", and 72" range.

 

[Pooh_Bear]

I left the FM on the tractor and raised it all the way up.
Then blocked it up with 2x6s and crawled under it.
Blades came off just like a push mower.
Used a block of wood to hold the blade
and a 19mm box end wrench to turn the bolt.
Real easy after I determined it was LH threads.

Pooh Bear