Firewood Processor - What are the best chainsaws to use?

[KilroyJC]

I made a chainsaw firewood processing stand a couple years ago. It worked well, except for the fact that the saw I used - a vintage Homelite Super XL - got rather hot with the continuous cutting.

Hot enough to boil the gasoline.

Any recommendations for a saw that will handle this kind of operation?

thank you!

(photos screenshotted from a YouTube video I found that shows the type of setup I am talking about)

)

 

[ericm979]

That's not a Homelite. Is that your device or a video of someone else's?

If it's yours or yours works like that where the saw is idling between cuts, the load on the saw is similar to ordinary operation. The gas should not be boiling in the Homelite unless something is wrong with it. For example the engine is running lean due to carb adjustment or an air leak, the chain is too tight, etc.

 

[KilroyJC]

That's not a Homelite. Is that your device or a video of someone else's?

If it's yours or yours works like that where the saw is idling between cuts, the load on the saw is similar to ordinary operation. The gas should not be boiling in the Homelite unless something is wrong with it. For example the engine is running lean due to carb adjustment or an air leak, the chain is too tight, etc.

The video is one I put up as an example - that is not me or my saw. I should have been more clear about that.

the Homelight is an all metal case, and when it is in a fixed position for an extended time at high Reba it gets HOT.

When operated normally, it does just fine.

 

[ericm979]

High Reba? I assume that's spell check for high rpm? Like you're fixing the throttle wide open?

Running full throttle constantly will be hard on any saw. They're made for lots of full throttle but not 100%. Also they're not made to run full throttle with no load. If there is no rev limiter built into the coil (and it's unlikely on a saw of that vintage) free rev rpm will be limited by carb tuning, internal friction and the lower efficiency of very high rpms. The latter two mean more heat.

I suggest modifying your device to be like the one in the video where it lets the saw idle and revs it up only when there's work to do. It'll be a lot easier on the saw, no matter which saw you use, and will be a lot more pleasant to work around.

Besides or in addition to that- you can adjust the carburetor richer on the high speed jet. The extra fuel will make the engine run cooler. You'll be breathing more raw gas fumes though.

The Super XLs I used had both automatic and manual oilers. You're supposed to use the manual oiler to add oil under heavy use. Without it the bar may be under oiled and would run hotter, which also heats up the saw. I can't remember if the automatic oiler is adjustable but if it is, try turning it up all the way.

 

[4570Man]

You’d be blown away with the performance of a pro grade saw vs the old homelite. A 372XP Husqvarna is my pick. I have a 6100 Makita that’s a more value oriented saw but it lags behind the 372.

 

[deserteagle71]

Go hydraulic power and never look back.....

 

[dodge man]

My reaction was Reba McIntyre runs your saw for you? I suppose a Stihl or Husky would be my choice for a saw.

 

[KilroyJC]

High Reba? I assume that's spell check for high rpm? Like you're fixing the throttle wide open?

Running full throttle constantly will be hard on any saw. They're made for lots of full throttle but not 100%. Also they're not made to run full throttle with no load. If there is no rev limiter built into the coil (and it's unlikely on a saw of that vintage) free rev rpm will be limited by carb tuning, internal friction and the lower efficiency of very high rpms. The latter two mean more heat.

I suggest modifying your device to be like the one in the video where it lets the saw idle and revs it up only when there's work to do. It'll be a lot easier on the saw, no matter which saw you use, and will be a lot more pleasant to work around.

Besides or in addition to that- you can adjust the carburetor richer on the high speed jet. The extra fuel will make the engine run cooler. You'll be breathing more raw gas fumes though.

The Super XLs I used had both automatic and manual oilers. You're supposed to use the manual oiler to add oil under heavy use. Without it the bar may be under oiled and would run hotter, which also heats up the saw. I can't remember if the automatic oiler is adjustable but if it is, try turning it up all the way.

Autokowrecked and a cracked screen get me all the time!

I did have a throttle assembly, but just think how quickly you can move 2”-4” branches through the cutting process - the saw never really drops Roma befor you are in position cutting the next piece.

my Super XL is a transition model - it has both the automatic joker AND the plunger, which is great when bucking old downed trees.

 

[KilroyJC]

You’d be blown away with the performance of a pro grade saw vs the old homelite. A 372XP Husqvarna is my pick. I have a 6100 Makita that’s a more value oriented saw but it lags behind the 372.

Current big saw is Dolmar/Makita 7300 - 28” bar.

it replaced my 6400 that had an unfortunate accident when the wind shifted. . .