First 50hrs service - Jinma 244E

[fartypants]

Hi All, It is time for my first service and am asking if any one has any particular advice for me. I am in France and the local agricultural garage has not seen a Jinma before. They seem to know their stuff with the more common tractors. There is the language problem and where you could normally have a chat with the mechanic here I can't. The handbook is in English so that's no help to them. Any suggestions / comments would be most welcome. Thanks.

 

[greenmule]

Well,I'd do it myself,it ain't hard.

Than reckon I'd try hard to learn french,wee wee.

 

[greg_g]

The 50 hours maintenance isn't in the books anyway, it's as a result of what we as a community have learned over the years. On the tractor, drain/flush all fluids, replace all filters. On the engine, drain/flush oil and cooling systems, change oil filter (air filter isn't likely too dirty yet). But most important, retorque the head gasket and adjust the valve lash. From that point on, you can pick up on the regular maintenance schedule printed in the manuals.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

Ditto on what Greg and Greenmule said.
I do it myself too as most of us Chinese tractor owners do.
One thing I will add to the list is also check the clutch(s) to be sure they're adjusted correctly for best performance and longevity. To emphasize Greg's list, be sure to do the head bolt re torque and valve lash adjustment. There are many threads on doing that.
Rob-
Here is one I did on my wife's 2008 Jinma 284:
Valve Lash Adjustment/Head Bolt Re-torque Jinma 284 with QC395T Engine

 

[valley]

Rob, Your make this interesting. I went back and read your valve adjust on Loretta's Jinma. It was just as good as the first time. I read it before I adjusted mine last year, it helped alot. I climbed over the FEL to get to the engine. Is that 2X4s you have holding the FEL up or pipe or? Richard

 

[3RRL]

Rob, Your make this interesting. I went back and read your valve adjust on Loretta's Jinma. It was just as good as the first time. I read it before I adjusted mine last year, it helped alot. I climbed over the FEL to get to the engine. Is that 2X4s you have holding the FEL up or pipe or? Richard

Hi Richard,
Those are 2 x 4's used to prop up the fel just in case.
A cleaner way to do it is use pipe with large enough ID to go around the rods of the hydraulic cylinders. Cut them it to length of the exposed rod when the fel is lifted up. Then cut it length ways in half to act as stops. Each half fits over the hydraulic rod. You can secure them with a couple hose clamps to the rods. You could use "U" shaped channel iron too.
Rob-

 

[DAVEINSWEDEN]

Hi Rob, I've just got a new 244E imported from the uk and it's the very first one in Sweden so I'm on my own! It's got 60 hrs on it now and now there's a problem with the clutch. Yesterday whilst working hard with the front loader, I noticed I had to press the pedal down further and further to change gears and thought I'd shorten the pedal linkage to get more response from the clutch.
I did, and when I tried it, there was no resistance from the clutch at all. It felt very much like something had 'let go'! It's never changed gears smoothly, but now it won't engage a gear at all, just makes the awful 'grinding' noise. You mentioned in your post about 'checking the clutches' and am wondering if you think there may have been a 'failure' in the clutch after 60 hours or if a little adjusting will fix it up.
Thank you
Dave

 

[Rich Waugh]

Carefully check all the shear pins (roll pins) that hold the various parts of the clutch linkage together. One of these has sheared off and the pedal action is no longer getting to the clutch release fork.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Carefully check all the shear pins (roll pins) that hold the various parts of the clutch linkage together. One of these has sheared off and the pedal action is no longer getting to the clutch release fork.

Rich is right. Usually right at the pedal itself where it attaches to the shaft coming out of the gear box.

Also, you should always fully disengage the clutch when shifting. IE pressing the pedal fully.

Chris

 

[DAVEINSWEDEN]

Carefully check all the shear pins (roll pins) that hold the various parts of the clutch linkage together. One of these has sheared off and the pedal action is no longer getting to the clutch release fork.

Hi, you both led me in the right direction and I found that the welding on the end of the tube that connects the clutch housing to the clutch linkage had failed therefore no clutch! The roll pins that hold the linkage to the housing are a nightmare to get out, very little room to move, consequently there's not as much plastic in the fusebox housing as there used to be ...I'm not the best shot with the hammer but hey-ho! Job done
Thank you for the advice
Dave