First Choice woes

[Ned_Horning]

I recently got used 7’ First Choice back blade from a friend. My friend and I both have 32 HP tractors (the popular green variety). When I got the blade the square steel tube that connects the 3 pt hitch to the blade assembly was pretty bent up so I had a new piece welded on using heavier stock steel. My hope was that this heavier stock would result in a usable implement but after a couple days of plowing snow with the blade it is already showing signs of wear (see attached photos) at the bottom of the square steel tube where the pin goes that is used to adjust the bland angle. The photo is not that great but the hole for the pin is slowly transforming to an oblong shape which means there is more and more play with the blade.

So, my questions:

1 -What can I do to beef this up so I don’t have to keep replacing the tubing,

2 – Is this quality typical of First Choice implements (this is my only First Choice implement), and

3 – Is plowing snow harsh and unusual punishment for this sort of implement.

 

[Slamfire]

That is pretty typical of the medium grade units. I've not examined any of the heavy duty models. You can of course bush the holes whenever they get too oblong for your use. Your's don't look bad to me. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[rambler]

Are you using a pin that exactly fills the hole? No undersized pins allowed!

Bushing it when it wears down next time will solve it.

--->Paul

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue"> Is this quality typical of First Choice implements </font>

As you may know from reading other posts on TBN, CCM said that Midwest had not made that equipment for First Choice in a couple years. First Choice does not use that vendor to manufacturer any longer. Word from the First Choice owner yesterday: New and improved line of shortline tools will be available this spring --We have had above average quality and reasonable pricing with all the First Choice implements we sell.--Ken Sweet
Sweet Farm Equipment Co *First Choice Dealer from the Start*

 

[Deerlope]

Having repaired many such problems over the last 35+ years try this. When you bush the hole go to a place that sells steel and get a piece of mechanical tubing having the proper ID of the pin and at least 1/2" wall thickness drill the hole out bigger to accept the tubing then weld in place. If you have someone else do it ask them if they could do it this way. On that square tubing you have less than 1/2 of surface to wear on and you probably have a harden pin against mild steel.

 

[Old_Hickory]

Hey Ken,
You never did answer my question on the other thread about the pricing of the Fransgard winches.How come such a price difference ?

 

[PineRidge]

Break out the stick welder and some heavy angle iron. Add some meat where its the weakest and that will be the end of your problems.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree with the others.. That hardened pin is beating up that mild steel because there isn't enough load bearing area.

Add some meat to it and/or bush up.

Make sure the pin is snug.

Soundguy

 

[JimMc]

We have been able to make many design changes over the products we produced for some of our previous customers once freed of the mentality that dictated "XYZ product must sell for XYZ price point".

Does it cost more - in some cases yes. Will customers feel it is worth it? I don't know, but our implement sales are triple what we did last year. And just in case you're wondering, the Kioti deal is less than 25% of those revenues.

In this case, the changes include a plate wrapped around the pivot plate to capture the pin after it comes through the pivot plate. This greatly reduces the wear on the pin holes in the frame tube.

And just to set the record straight, Ken, FC does not buy from Midwest any longer by Midwest's choice, as you are well aware. And also for the record, I sincerely hope FC can continue as a viable option for its customer base.

 

[JimMc]

The best fix for you is to weld an "L" shaped piece of plate on the end of the tube which wraps around the pivot plate and will accept the pin once it passes through the pivot plate.

From the pin's view, it will insert through the top of the tube, out the bottom side of the tube, through the pivot plate and then through hole in the "L" plate. This greatly stablizes the pin and increases the bearing surface the pin has available.