first post and question about food plots

[dirtbikekid1090]

Thank you for all the help I think I am going to plant clover in one of the upper fields I am going to find out if I can plant corn down the power line path. Last year the power company sprayed a round up type product and killed all the saplings, so they will not do that for six to eight more years. If I have to I will plant clover down the power line area because I can just say that I am re seeding our land for erosion control

Now all I need to know is what equipment do I need. We have a broadcast seeder that we used when we replanted the runway after we had it tilled and then rolled. We also have a 8’ disc but there are some old disc/ cultipacker type things in the woods that might work better. It is different than any cultipacker I have ever seen. The teeth are longer and are curved I think that it will do more tilling than a newer cultipacker will. Next time I go down (this weekend or next) I will take a few pictures then post them.

 

[HCJtractor]

the only problem with corn is that it will really block your visibility on the power line, unless you hunt it after it's cut. I would stick with clover or some other low growing seed. Around here, we often use a wildlife blend with wheat, rye, oats, clover, etc. Peas and beans are also good here. But clover is hard to beat. In my experience, the expensive brand name deer mixes, such as Biologic, are not worth the money. We buy cheaper seed from local feed and seed distributors and they work just fine. Proper fertilization is very important. Weed control is not. As far as equipment, all you need are the basics. A rotary cutter, a disc or rotatiller, a broadcast spreader for fertilizer, a hand crank chest mounted seed distributor, and a drag harrow to level and cover seed. A grain drill and cultipacker is a luxury but not necessary. Oh, you need a buddy or two to help share the work and cut lanes.

 

[MarkV]

Before you spend the money and time on the power line call the power company to see what they spray with. Around here, when they do their 5 year spraying they use a soil sterilizer that will not let anything grow for several year. Seed, fertilizer and tilling time is too expensive to just throw out on sterilized soil. Doesn't matter what you do it will not grow.

MarkV

 

[buck12]

You have gotten good advice so far. I would also add that you would accomplish alot wandering around the property now when the leaves are gone. Look for old rub lines and trails. Follow the trails and see where they lead. Look for bedding areas and droppings. They will be the same every year. Food plots are great but don't take the place of good scouting. Look for places that overlook trail intersections and look for elevated spots that offer visibility. This is also a great time to discreetly cut shooting lanes to enhance your visibility next fall. Once you place a stand, have a buddy walk around it and have him cut limbs and small trees that keep you from seeing him. Extend the visibility in several directions. Use a chain saw and a pole saw for higher limbs. THis is best done now rather than just before the season. Build a few stands using screw in steps and lock on stands, or use ladders. The more, the better.

Also if you are allowed, definitely plow and plant the power line cut. Don't forget the fertilizer and lime if needed. Find an elevated place that allows visibility both directions and if possible cut some lanes 90 degrees to this line also. Plant some plots a hundred or two yards away from your stand site. Give the deer passing across a reason to stop. Don't forget to plan multiple stand sites so that you will have choices depending on the wind. Cut paths to these sites so that you can get there at night quietly without a light. This is work that is never finished. Every year you will discover something you wish you had done. That, to me, is the fun part.

Oh, also walk the creek. Put on some rubber boots and get in the water and walk the whole creek. Look for obvious crossings and when you find a big one, follow it. But most important, do these things now so that by late summer, you start staying away and leaving the deer unpressured. Resist lots of scouting after the season starts. Go in very discreetly and get out when the hunt is over. The more activity on the land, the more nocturnal the deer (especially older bucks) will be.

I also think as you gain skill as a deer hunter, you will find sitting over plots is really boring. It is a great place for beginners to pop a doe, but the big bucks learn to visit only at night, unless they are really unpressured or the rut is in full swing, so instead plant the plots to add nutrition and to attact does, but hunt the woods or catch them crossing the power lines. And lastly, if you want big bucks, don't shoot the young ones. Shoot does instead if you want meat.

The biggest problem with food plots is that they are labor intensive, require lots of equipment, and can be very expensive. If you have good natural food sources (white oaks, persimmons, honeysuckle, etc.) you can certainly have a great hunting location without them.

Excellent advice. I mentally note what limbs/trees need cutting during hunting season and get in the woods as soon as season ends each year to eliminate pressure just before season. As the poster said now is the time to get ready for next season. I will add one reason for food plots is to attract does and then hunt them during rut. Does = bucks during rut.

 

[HCJtractor]

Although this is off subject, another tip I use is when the season is almost over, I tie a piece of bright surveyors tape around the trunk of the trees where my favorite stands are, at eye level. Some of these may be 30' up. Then in the off season, I can stand on the ground and look for the tape as if I was a deer. If a limb blocks my view, I cut it with a pole saw, or even cut down the tree. If I can see the tape, The opposite is true. I could see the deer from that stand. After a few years of doing this, I develop very discreet lines of view, that are not so apparent to the deer (or stand theives) By extending the view, I see many deer that would have otherwise gone unseen. The alternative is to have a buddy cut your lanes when you are in your stand to direct, but if you use the tape, you can have two people cutting and it goes quicker, and you don't have to leave your stand in the woods all year. My hunting buddy and I have gotten pretty good at creating these ideal stand sites. From the ground, they are not even noticeable, but the windows are up high. Smart deer avoid drastic shooting lanes and opennings, but they don't seem to notice these high pathways of sight. Nothing is worse than having a stand in the perfect spot only to realize on openning day that you can't see squat! Where we hunt, prime time is early Fall when leaves still obstruct the view. I was walking in the woods last week wishing I could see the same during hunting season that I can see now!

Stands like this are so much more fun to hunt than sitting over food plots looking at green grass all day.

 

[lakngulf]

Some excellent advice has been offered, that I hope to use as well. One thing I have noticed from 20 something years of planting and hunting: Deer always seem to use the food plot the most during the first year, and that is when you do have opportunity to get some nice bucks. Maybe it is the newness, maybe the soil has good nutrients that have been built up, maybe the deer have had secure travel through the area, something makes a difference that first year. If that is the case, then you may have enough land and spots to rotate the fields, or at least to add a new one.

The members of one club that I was in for several years always tried to guess where my {secret spot} was. They really thought I knew something when, in reality, I was just looking for a new patch of land to plant. I always told my fellow members that I was a better farmer than hunter, using the theory: If you plant it, they will come.

 

[HCJtractor]

They are smart! We created long narrow foodplots with a central stand, either high in a tree, or a tower. We bulldozed lanes out 200 or 300 yards in many directions and planted them. (This land had been clear cut and had grown up so that it was unhuntable) As the years passed, we noticed the new trails always seemed to develop just beyond the tips of the plots. Of course the deer learned to avoid crossing these opennings. That's one reason I hate hunting food plots. I stick my guests there and let them be my "spotters" and let them kill does, but I hunt in the woods, overlooking trails and bottlenecks, or edges. You may get lucky and catch a mature buck in a foodplot, especially during the rut, but to me, it's just too boring. I know in some states (like Texas) hunting is done over feeders. That's not for me either! Besides, it is illegal here in S.C. upstate.

 

[mburke121]

I agree, lots of good information has been shared so far.

I will add that, before you plant, do a soil test. It very easy and inexpensive, and will make the difference in your results. You might otherwise waste time and money on fertilizer and/or lime. Lots of good information is available on the net - one example would be on the Farming for Wildlife web site.

I recommend clover as a good starting plot. The deer will hit it hard early in the season. The only problem with clover is, since it's a perennial, it will not give you a great deal of forage in the first year. It will be great in years 2 and 3, another advantage over other alternatives. If you can, mow it 3 to 4 times each year during the growing season.

If you are a bow hunter you may get some early season opportunities over the clover plot in the evenings. But, be very sensitive to pressuring the deer by spending too much time in the plot. Hunt it cautiously, when your wind direction is right, and practice good scent control. The earlier post is dead on - the deer (particularly the mature bucks) will not come to your plot during daylight hours if you pressure them at all.

Corn and beans are more difficult to grow without the proper planting equipment, and the price of corn seed has become exorbitant. You won't get nearly as much bang for the "buck" with this as you will with clover.

Finally, if you plan to rifle hunt in late season, you might want to try a fall planting of brassicas - they sweeten up after frosts and freezing temperatures hit them, and become irresistible to deer. Another good fall choice is a small plot of alfalfa or oats, to give them something green when everything else is turning brown.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[kebo]

Thank you for all the help I think I am going to plant clover in one of the upper fields I am going to find out if I can plant corn down the power line path. Last year the power company sprayed a round up type product and killed all the saplings, so they will not do that for six to eight more years. If I have to I will plant clover down the power line area because I can just say that I am re seeding our land for erosion control

Now all I need to know is what equipment do I need. We have a broadcast seeder that we used when we replanted the runway after we had it tilled and then rolled. We also have a 8 disc but there are some old disc/ cultipacker type things in the woods that might work better. It is different than any cultipacker I have ever seen. The teeth are longer and are curved I think that it will do more tilling than a newer cultipacker will. Next time I go down (this weekend or next) I will take a few pictures then post them.

I think the implement you are describing is actually a rotary hoe. If it is, they do not till down very deep. A cultipacker is used to bust up & pack the big dirt clods down flat after you have disked up a plot. It is also good for pressing the seed down into the soil after you have broadcast the seed on top of the dirt.