First time tractor buyer

[Robert O'Linn]

I am shopping for my first tractor. I have 20 acres total. 16 acres are Pensacola Bahai. Property surrounded byOak trees and some pine.
I lose a tree every once in a while and have to deal with it. I will be running some cows followed by sheep chickens, turkeys and geese in the pasture. Will also have some hogs. Not interested in doing hay. I am planning on starting an orchard so I will need something to help me drill holes for planting trees.Thinking I need a tractor with bucket, brush hog and box blade maybe a fork for lifting and an auger.
Dealerships in area are John Deere, Kubota, Massey Ferguson, New Holland, Kioti, Rural King and Tractor Supply-Yanmar.
Here is what they recommend tractor wise;
John Deere-3046R
Kubota-M7060HDC or M5400HST
Massey Ferguson-MF2850M or MF2860M
New Holland Workmaster 55 or Workmaster 65
Kioti-CK2610M
Rural King-37HP Shuttle Shift Transmission
Tractor Supply-No recommendations they only carry the SA221 or SA424. There are no dealerships in my area.
Any advice is welcome for this first time tractor buyer.
Thank You

 

[deezler]

Did you go sit on and try out all of those tractors? Pretty good list of candidates there, but some big differences, too. You need to feel them all out to really learn what you prefer and what is most comfortable.

For the Kioti, 25 BHP is not a lot if you need to brush hog thick stuff. The ck3510 or 4010 might suit you better.

I would definitely get an HST trans if you plan on doing much loader work. Way less fatiguing.

I'm sure you'll get a lot of suggestions here. Whats your budget? Those tractors cover a pretty big range.....

 

[jjp8182]

Would definitely recommend the forks as they can be used for a lot of general material handling.

Suggest strongly consider adding a grapple for dealing with fallen trees/brush/branches and cleanup from pruning. ..particularly if you're already looking at a loader mounted auger.

Would the bucket and box blade be for manure handling or dirt? or a mix? ...can lead to some different considerations (e.g. a box blade for clearing stalls could be lighter, wider and not need rippers)

 

[CH4Ohio]

Whatever you get, I'd recommend a hydrostatic transmission on that size tractor. Much easier in every way.

Edit -- I just re-read your list of candidates. There's a huge difference in those recommendations as far as size and horsepower is concerned. I'd suggest you try to narrow the size and HP and weight parameters down first.

I do really like the size of that RK37HST tractor and the way it's built. Don't have one, but I really like it. Wish they had a belly mower option for it . . . that might push me over the edge. I'd say a tractor about that size would do a good job on 20 acres and it's available with a climate-controlled cab. Lots of people don't like RK and I'd say if you don't plan on doing your own repair and maintenance then you might not want one. The equivalent in Kubota would be a mid-size L series. The M series they recommended are MUCH bigger.

 

[dodge man]

The tractors you listed are quite a bit different and don’t really compare. For example the Kubota tractors are quite a bit bigger than the JD. I’d say look at those recommendations and narrow down the size.

 

[jeff9366]

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor weight is more important identifying compact tractor capability than tractor horsepower.

Bare tractor weight is a fundamental tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used. Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is worse than depreciation on a tractor.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My Kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after eight years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.


I am shopping for my first tractor.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

I have 20 acres total. 16 acres are Pensacola Bahia.
I lose a tree every once in a while and have to deal with it.
I will be running some cows followed by sheep chickens, turkeys and geese in the pasture. Will also have some hogs. I plan on starting an orchard so I will need something to drill holes for planting trees.

Not interested in doing hay.

Thinking I need a tractor with bucket, brush hog and box blade maybe a fork for lifting and an auger.

The Three Point Hitch tractor has been marketed in the USA since 1939. Patents on the Three Point Hitch and TPH hydraulic controls expired in 1955. Since 1955 (66 years) all traditional compact tractors have been designed and produced around the Ferguson Three Point Hitch, worldwide.

The traditional tractor design is generic.

For 16 acres of workable ground and the demands of animals I suggest at 4-WD tractor of 3,500 to 4,200 pounds bare tractor weight. This is the mid-weight of compact tractors, a high unit volume segment. Every tractor manufacturer offers at least two models, an economy and a deluxe tractor, in this weight range.. All offer HST. All are 66" wide, plus or minus a smidge. All will comfortably pick up 2,000 pounds with the loader. Horsepower options are 40-horsepower to 60-horsepower.

45-horsepower will adequately power a 72" medium duty Rotary Cutter / Bush Hog through tall grass.

A Box Blade is one implement most tractor owners use. Useful for grading, it is also excellent Three Point Hitch counterbalance to Loader lifts. A 700 pound or 800 pound Box Blade will keep tractor rear wheels on the ground.

I am uncertain if you refer to Pallet Forks or a Bale Spear. In either case order the attachment with SSQA (Skid Steer Quick Attach) connection. I use 36" length Pallet Forks for tree work regularly. If you intend to move pallets, 44" or 48" Pallet Forks are better. However, the longer Pallet Forks are much less handy/maneuverable in tree work.

For planting trees with a 3,500 to 4,200 pound bare weight tractor it is hard to beat a $400 Bucket Spade attachment. Order an optional heavy duty FEL bucket if available.

Front-End Loader - BUCKET SPADE TODAY // FEL BUCKET ATTACHMENT

I am a fan of Bucket Solutions' clamp-on Bucket Spade. It is

www.tractorbynet.com

One of Kubota's MX series will be ample for your requirements.
If your budget allows, consider one of Kubota's "Grand L" tractors of 4,000 pounds bare weight and 66" width. Especially recommended for those 55 years of age and north.

Kubota web site:

Tractors - Utility - MX Series | Kubota

Browse through Kubota's MX Series Utility tractor inventory, filter search by features to find the best fit for you, or even build your own. Then find a dealer close by with your desired product!

www.kubotausa.com

Tractors - Compact - Grand L60 Series | Kubota

Browse through Kubota's Grand L60 Series Compact tractor inventory, filter search by features to find the best fit for you, or even build your own. Then find a dealer close by with your desired product!

www.kubotausa.com

 

[shooterdon]

When I bought mine, I did a spreadsheet of jobs. Three categories....Regular tasks, occasional tasks, one time or very infrequent tasks along the top. Tractors on the side.

Check the boxes.

Did the same for attachments.

For the occasional and one time tasks I looked at the cost of rentals and/or contracting the job out. For example buying a back how to dig footings and put in a 150 ft trench for power is stupid.

HST is highly recommended. I really like my cab but it may not play well if you planning an orchard.

I love my grapple, but I process 6-7 cords of wood a year. It would be silly for dealing with a couple of downed tress a year. You can do that with forks and forks are more useful and cheaper.

Evaluate you dealer. I had to take both the JD and Kubota off my list due to dealer issues.

 

[IndyJay]

I am shopping for my first tractor. I have 20 acres total. 16 acres are Pensacola Bahai. Property surrounded byOak trees and some pine.
I lose a tree every once in a while and have to deal with it. I will be running some cows followed by sheep chickens, turkeys and geese in the pasture. Will also have some hogs. Not interested in doing hay. I am planning on starting an orchard so I will need something to help me drill holes for planting trees.Thinking I need a tractor with bucket, brush hog and box blade maybe a fork for lifting and an auger.
Dealerships in area are John Deere, Kubota, Massey Ferguson, New Holland, Kioti, Rural King and Tractor Supply-Yanmar.
Here is what they recommend tractor wise;
John Deere-3046R
Kubota-M7060HDC or M5400HST
Massey Ferguson-MF2850M or MF2860M
New Holland Workmaster 55 or Workmaster 65
Kioti-CK2610M
Rural King-37HP Shuttle Shift Transmission
Tractor Supply-No recommendations they only carry the SA221 or SA424. There are no dealerships in my area.
Any advice is welcome for this first time tractor buyer.
Thank You

You may want to visit these dealers and drive some of these tractors to get a sense of scale. The models you list vary greatly in weight and size. For example the Kioti CK2610 is a lot smaller than the rest that you listed. The CK4010 is same size but more HP may be better to handle some of the tasks you mention. For Massey you may want to look at the 1840M; the 2850M is a pretty big tractor, more like the Kioti DK10 series. Also when at the dealer, ask about lead time. Some may have what you need in stock or can get it fairly quickly, others may be out several months or may not even want to commit to a delivery date.

Continue to research here on TBN but also check out YouTube videos that can be helpful in deciding what is best suited for your needs.
Welcome and good luck!

 

[fried1765]

When I bought mine, I did a spreadsheet of jobs. Three categories....Regular tasks, occasional tasks, one time or very infrequent tasks along the top. Tractors on the side.

Check the boxes.

Did the same for attachments.

For the occasional and one time tasks I looked at the cost of rentals and/or contracting the job out. For example buying a back how to dig footings and put in a 150 ft trench for power is stupid.

HST is highly recommended. I really like my cab but it may not play well if you planning an orchard.

I love my grapple, but I process 6-7 cords of wood a year. It would be silly for dealing with a couple of downed tress a year. You can do that with forks and forks are more useful and cheaper.

Evaluate you dealer. I had to take both the JD and Kubota off my list due to dealer issues.

We may have a different viewpoint.
In my opinion, no attachment for a tractor is "stupid" when you are 80+.

 

[jjp8182]

We may have a different viewpoint.
In my opinion, no attachment for a tractor is "stupid" when you are 80+.

..also not "stupid" or "silly" when working in high humidity heat (especially if it's also in direct full sunlight).

It's rare to see utility or construction workers wielding shovels around here (in northern Alabama) seems almost all companies have switched to mini-excavators and/or trenchers. ...which given the heat, humidity and clay content (in most areas) would make sense.

Pretty sure a single day (or trip to the hospital) of heat-related injuries would more than justify the expense of most any tractor implement that can help reduce the potential for such heat stress/stroke.