kennyd
Advertiser
This is a common problem for FEL plows on smaller tractors, espesially rigid ones, just not enough weight on the tractors front end to hold it down. The ones suspended on chain seem to work better as described above.
Snow Equipment Owning/Operating First time using Float position
- Thread starter topstoy
- Start date
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OP
topstoy
Silver Member
KennyD
Yes, I was thinking about it last night. It is like it is on the merge of pulling a wheelie and all it needs is a little friction on the front to allow it to come up since there is free play with the float position. I think I would be better off coming out of float for the up hill push. It's too bad as this was such an expensive investment, would liked to think that it would be a perfect set-up. Thanks for the advice, Ken
SweBota
Silver Member
The FEL acts as a lever and wants to raise the front of the tractor. Also, in float all the weight of the FEL is on the plow and not on the tractor, thats why chain setups can work better, then only the plow floats.
That's why plows are better on front mounts (that attaches to a point LOWER than the rear axles) than on FEL arms.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...04d1418813263-just-bought-l5030hstc-image-jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...apons-post2273494.html?highlight=#post2273494
BR /Marcus
That's why plows are better on front mounts (that attaches to a point LOWER than the rear axles) than on FEL arms.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...04d1418813263-just-bought-l5030hstc-image-jpg
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...apons-post2273494.html?highlight=#post2273494
BR /Marcus
PILOON
Super Star Member
The pusher arms need to be parallel to the ground.
If they are slanted downwards than any resistance, including a load of snow, will want to raise the tractor front end.
The other way, sloping upwards and the plow will ride up over the snow.
Problem is tractors generally sit high off of the ground so the push arms just about always slope downwards which in turn literally jacks the front end of your typical CUT.
Notice that a truck plow always has 2-3 holes to pin the plow onto a truck, that is to attain the correct angle.
On my tractor I made a sub frame to attach my plow to assure that 'parallel push'. I can load up so much snow that I only stop when I have totally lost traction and that is with loaded tires and ice chains plus my rear mounted blower.
Also look at where the FEL arms pivot points are, nice and high, so don't ask why your blade digs in.
On a heavy tractor all that counts much less but on CUTs it does matter.
On a CUT the ideal solution would be 2 long ladder like tube rigged sort of like a ladder that would anchored onto the rear axle.
With that you'd never dig in and also would retain reasonable steering as the front would always have decent weight.
If they are slanted downwards than any resistance, including a load of snow, will want to raise the tractor front end.
The other way, sloping upwards and the plow will ride up over the snow.
Problem is tractors generally sit high off of the ground so the push arms just about always slope downwards which in turn literally jacks the front end of your typical CUT.
Notice that a truck plow always has 2-3 holes to pin the plow onto a truck, that is to attain the correct angle.
On my tractor I made a sub frame to attach my plow to assure that 'parallel push'. I can load up so much snow that I only stop when I have totally lost traction and that is with loaded tires and ice chains plus my rear mounted blower.
Also look at where the FEL arms pivot points are, nice and high, so don't ask why your blade digs in.
On a heavy tractor all that counts much less but on CUTs it does matter.
On a CUT the ideal solution would be 2 long ladder like tube rigged sort of like a ladder that would anchored onto the rear axle.
With that you'd never dig in and also would retain reasonable steering as the front would always have decent weight.
nickc
Silver Member
i have the same problem using the loader to move snow with my 2305 the front is just too light. are you able to use a front weight with the loader mounted?
OP
topstoy
Silver Member
Well I had much better luck today without using the Float position. Just kept a close eye for digging in. Probably should have got a snow blower instead. What kills me is my neighbor put a light weigh plow set up on his side by side and does a much better job then my heavy duty set up. I suck again!
kennyd
Advertiser
What plow setup did you buy Tops? How are you controlling the angle?
Coyote machine
Super Member
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Na, you're beating yourself up over a nonexistent problem.:confused3:
I have a FEL plow setup from one of the best tractor manufacturers in Canada. It took some serious time to figure out how to get everything setup right, and I seldom use float position, but can if I chose to. Make sure you have a crossover valve in the hydraulics of your plow hydraulic lines to prevent/reduce the chance of racking your loader arms from the forces exerted by the plow against the loader. You're not trying to clear an airport runway, are you? Therefore try as suggested, tilt the plow blade forward enough to keep it from catching on objects in the path, when in float, and the edge will likely trip less than before. Plus as you work the learning curve realize you can make more than one pass to clear an area without damage to the loader, your ego or your wallet. You can run your plow slightly off the ground too and then clean more closely on a subsequent pass. Forget the neighbor; his rig probaby bounces over everything anyway. Remember, learning curve- it takes some time- you'll get the hang of it.:thumbsup:
I have a FEL plow setup from one of the best tractor manufacturers in Canada. It took some serious time to figure out how to get everything setup right, and I seldom use float position, but can if I chose to. Make sure you have a crossover valve in the hydraulics of your plow hydraulic lines to prevent/reduce the chance of racking your loader arms from the forces exerted by the plow against the loader. You're not trying to clear an airport runway, are you? Therefore try as suggested, tilt the plow blade forward enough to keep it from catching on objects in the path, when in float, and the edge will likely trip less than before. Plus as you work the learning curve realize you can make more than one pass to clear an area without damage to the loader, your ego or your wallet. You can run your plow slightly off the ground too and then clean more closely on a subsequent pass. Forget the neighbor; his rig probaby bounces over everything anyway. Remember, learning curve- it takes some time- you'll get the hang of it.:thumbsup:
DK35vince
Super Member
I have a FEL mounted snow plow and I never use float. Does not work well using float.
Puts to much weight on the blade and can't steer.
I just set the blade on the ground, then bump the joy stick up a little to take some of the weight off the plow and go.
Works fine for me that way.
Puts to much weight on the blade and can't steer.
I just set the blade on the ground, then bump the joy stick up a little to take some of the weight off the plow and go.
Works fine for me that way.
I agree with what they said about a rigid mounted plow. Even with my L4240 and the snow plow in float as soon as I start pushing is can see the cylinders shorten slightly so that mean weight is coming off the front axle. IF your driveway is fairly level you can hold the plow up off the ground and work the loader up and down as you.