First weld-on grab hook

[Shield Arc]

Oh I see!:laughing:

I'm a better welder than photographer.

I just switched over to Linux Mint, the colors are different than windows.

 

[Shield Arc]

That top edge is not perfectly even and straight:laughing:

You're right, not much of a pipe welder.

Now lets see some of your 6-G 2-inch pipe welds.

 

[Chilly807]

Mine looks much the same.. the monitor colour that is. I use 7018 for much of my stick welding, primarily because of the price. I've got some 3/32 and 1/8 that were tossed, prematurely in my opinion. As far as the moisture absorbing issue, I don't have problems with that. More on that later.

You might like 7014 as well, much easier lighting than the 7018, every bit as smooth or better, and less issues with moisture absorbing.
They're not a low-hydrogen rod, so be careful welding steel that is prone to hydrogen embrittlement.

I run my 7018 3/32 at about 80-90 amps DC. The 1/8 gets 110-120 amps DC with good results. I find they re-light much better when they're still hot from the last pass.

Now, as to re-conditioning "damp" rods... I looked at Air Liquide's website, they have a page that spells out how to store and re-condition their rods, I suspect most manufacturers are like that.

The 7018 calls for storage at 300 degrees F once open, IIRC. To dry them, 600-700 degrees for 1 hour. Since my oven won't go to 600 degrees, and my wife would have a conniption anyway, I took an old toaster oven and modified it. The thermostat has been "enhanced" to allow it to go that high, and the thermal fuse was removed. I use an oven thermometer to be sure where I am heat-wise.

Not the safest piece of equipment I own, but if used properly it's fine. I only bake rods when I'm nearby, and it gets done outdoors away from anything flammable.

Once they're dry and cool, they go in vacuum sealed bags of about 15 rods each for storage.

Sean

 

[gauthier]

Well,I'm glad you own up to it.....did I ever tell you about the old pipeliner trying to light a tig torch?

 

[gauthier]

Use a 6010 type rod and you won't have to worry about burning stuff down with your modified toaster oven:laughing:

 

[Shield Arc]

did I ever tell you about the old pipeliner trying to light a tig torch?

Your not trying to change the subject are you?

I love looking at an experts pipe welds, postem up!

 

[gauthier]

I could probably find you a picture of my rabbit beagle,but that would be too much trouble,so,,,,hold your breath,,,and quit making those nasty uneven welds look gold.:laughing:

 

[Shield Arc]

quit making those nasty uneven welds.:laughing:

You know that old saying?
Those who can, do, those who can't, throw stones. Or something like that.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Here's something useful for the poster:

7018's can pinhole if they aren't warm and properly stored. Starting is easier too if that rod is hot. But IF a 7018 isn't in a sealed can like a pringles potato chip or a old can of quaker state, it is all wet...In a box, plastic or paper, a 7018 has moisture in it. Yes...I know the next statement, or question: If that's true how come they sell 'em that way??? Answer: Because they can, and because it means $$$$ for their backpockets. The rods can be used, don't get me wrong, but they do not have their low hydrogen status any longer and could crack underbead in the right situation.

Of course, too long of an arc can do it too.

IF the 7018's are hard restarting, reach up and break the fingernail off the tip of the rod so the bare metal makes direct contact with the metal in the rod. If the are hard STARTING, flip it over to the 6010 port.

 

[Shield Arc]

reach up and break the fingernail off the tip of the rod so the bare metal makes direct contact with the metal in the rod.

If by chance you're doing code work, or important work, ah it's a good idea for any kind of welding. Strike your arc about 3/4-inch in front of your stop, and drag back into the stop. This will help in getting the rod closer to operating temperature before you start welding.