Fisher plow on Satoh question

kennyd · Sep 3, 2010

sjb said:
Those Fisher spool valves are open center. I have not been able to find any specs on their GPM rating. The belt driven pumps are rated for less than 2 GPM. The valve is physically sort of small, so I doubt that it has a high GPM rating. The Fisher valves that I have seen have a built in crossover relief on the angle ports. This helps protect the plow if you hit something with one side of the plow.

Whether or not you can connect as you suggest depends on the GPM that your pump puts out. If the flow is too high for the valve there will be back pressure on the pump, causing it to work harder and heating up your fluid.

Parts for Fisher plows with belt driven hydraulics are getting scarce and are going for crazy prices on E-bay. If that vale is too small you can probably sell it for most of the price of a new larger valve.

Stan

Good info about the valve Stan...If we knew the IN and OUT port sizes on it we may be able to assume the GPM of it. I suspect though they are probably 1/4" and to small to plumb directly into the tractors sytem safely.

Mike Woodman · Sep 3, 2010

I don't have a loader or a valve, that I can see. Would the valve be between the pump and the fitting at the rear of the transmission? I think I'm starting to get the drift of what I need. Northern tool has a valve that if I'm reading it right, can provide full flow to the rear and partial flow off a seperate fitting. Although I'm not a farmer, I,ve had a few old tractors such as 9Ns with no live hydraulics, so I,m having a hard time getting up to speed on this.

sjb · Sep 3, 2010

The fisher valves that I have seen have 3/8" in / out ports and 1/4" work ports. The in/out ports have had adapters to reduce them to 1/4".

I don't think that electric over hydraulic would work too well. It is unlikely that the alternator in your tractor would supply enough output to keep up with the motor driving the pump.

3.96 GPM is not a lot of flow. If it was my tractor I would probably try the valve that you have. The right way to test it would be to temporarily put a pressure gauge at the valve inlet, and measure the pressure with the tractor running at full RPM, and both spools in the center position.

I don't have any experience with Satohs , so I can't offer any suggestions on how to tie in to your tractors hydraulic system.

Stan

kennyd · Sep 3, 2010

Mike: Can you measure the IN and OUT ports? What size tubing or hose feeds the rear of the tractor?

The valve you saw at NT was probably a "priority valve"?

Mike Woodman · Sep 7, 2010

The tube from the pump is 3/8. A local vendor who sold Satoh says do not tie into the pipe coming off the pump,but to tie into the short pipe on the tranny housing. The valve that he says I need is north of 400.00. So I,m thinking I'll go back to the fan belt operated pump. I do want to thank you guys for all the help though. I learned a bit about hydraulics.

JEH412 · Sep 7, 2010

sjb said:
... I don't think that electric over hydraulic would work too well. It is unlikely that the alternator in your tractor would supply enough output to keep up with the motor driving the pump.

Stan

My Satoh S370 has an old Meyer T5 Electrolift. The electrical system handles the load with no problems. Shame it doesn't have power angling, though!
John

kennyd · Sep 7, 2010

Mike Woodman said:
The tube from the pump is 3/8. A local vendor who sold Satoh says do not tie into the pipe coming off the pump,but to tie into the short pipe on the tranny housing. The valve that he says I need is north of 400.00. So I,m thinking I'll go back to the fan belt operated pump. I do want to thank you guys for all the help though. I learned a bit about hydraulics.

All you would need is a Open Center Valve that can be had for under $150. H is trying to take you form a ride.