Fixing my Agric AL 50 yet again.....

Johndeere3720 · Jun 4, 2011

When I last used my tiller on Monday, it was leaking gear oil really bad from the gear box. I knew it was the seal that goes around the PTO stub so today i decided to take it apart to see what was going on. Sure enough, it was the PTO stub seal, so we ordered one today. Also, when I last used my tiller, I noticed it was making a grinding sound at times, i also found the culprit, one of the bearings was shot on the gear box. If I recall this bearing is maybe 1 year old because I remember replacing it the first time I tore the tiller apart. For those whom don't know the story behind this tiller, I salvaged it from a barn fire so seals and bearings going out is a common thing whenever i use the tiller. Bearings aren't the best, they usually run $50 each and seals less. The seal i am getting today is $17, too much, I know.

It is just part of owning a salvaged implement, I at-least know this tiller inside and out. :thumbsup:

Before i pulled the PTO stub out, I did notice that the pin hole at the center was moving which indicated that the shaft may be bent. What a shock. :confused2: So I will have to look further into that and might have to use the hydraulic press to straighten it out. But for now, I am just waiting for the parts to come in.

Johndeere3720 · Jun 4, 2011

Well, I got my new bearing and seal. The new seal is actually partly metal with an inner rubber ring that goes around the PTO shaft. It was a pretty tight fit, so I took a washer that was the same diameter along with a small wood block and put it in the vice and slowly pushed it in. To check the PTO shaft, I took two wood shims and clamped the bearing on the end of the shaft along side a piece of wood. Then i used the digital caliper and turned the shaft and the measurement came out the same between the shaft and the block each time. So the shaft was not bent. :thumbsup: Next part was installing the new bearing. I tapped it into the gear box and stuck the PTO shaft and gear back in and bolted the back plate onto the gear box and got the new bearing on flush. Then I took the back plate off, put gasket maker on it and the front plate and installed them at finger tight for 1 hour until i was able to tighten it all down, put the new oil in, and try it out. I tilled the whole large horse arena which was about 45 min. and no problems to note. :thumbsup:

Rockin' G Ranch · Jun 5, 2011

Great job repairing your tiller. I have an Agric AL 50 also and have had to replace the drive chain but luckily not had to work on the gear box. I have a parts manual and owners manual for the tiller so I at least I know the part numbers if I had to order any. I would assume I could find bearings and seals at NAPA. Where did you find your parts?

Thanks for posting - pictures really explain the process.

Johndeere3720 · Jun 6, 2011

Rockin' G Ranch said:
Great job repairing your tiller. I have an Agric AL 50 also and have had to replace the drive chain but luckily not had to work on the gear box. I have a parts manual and owners manual for the tiller so I at least I know the part numbers if I had to order any. I would assume I could find bearings and seals at NAPA. Where did you find your parts?

Thanks for posting - pictures really explain the process.

I got the manual on my computer so I printed off the pages and brought them in after i highlighted the parts I needed. NAPA has had most every part I have needed, I did have to get the clutch disk from Kubota but NAPA covers everything else. I must want you that the PTO stub seal on the front of the gear box gives it's lager dimensions for the seal on the manual and since it is a stepped housing, the seal to their dimension will not fit. I got a seal that sat on the inside of the step so basically it was closer to the outside of the casting mainly for oil seepage reasons. It is a steel seal with a rubber seal on the inner ring for the area around the PTO stub and is a very tight fit. I used the bench vice with a small wood block about the size of a quarter dollar and a washer the same size of the outer ring of the seal and slowly set it into the casting using the vice. Worked out very well. :thumbsup: To get the inner dimensions for the seal we used a digital caliper and got the closest match possible.