Fixup an old Case 446 for a Maine Orchard
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I am not suggesting that you want something for nothing. I understand the word budget and have been in your shoes. The first tractor might well be your best bet. If you buy it, then you should commit to rebuilding it as the money becomes available. Brian Hildreth of Salem Power Home will sell you the correct Operator's Manual for the tractor along with the correct Parts Manual. That is where you begin. Correct paint is available at the local Case/IH dealer. Decals can be bought from Maple Hunter ..Maple Hunter Decals Texas Web Site Brian can sell you many of the parts you will need but there are other sources available because Case used many off-the-shelf items to build these tractors.
Many people make the mistake of taking the entire tractor apart at one time. Do not do that because it becomes too confusing. Instead, remove the hood, fenders and seat assembly and set them aside in a spot that is out of the way. Then remove the engine with the PTO clutch and exhaust system as a unit and set it aside. Jack up the frame just behind the front axle. Remove the nut that holds the drag link to the steering gear and then pull the pivot pin for the front axle. That will allow you to set the complete front axle and wheels aside in another spot. The next item to remove is the frame from the trans-axle and roll it away to another spot as a unit with the back wheels.
You are now left with the basic frame of the tractor along with the electrical system and hydraulic system. Photographs of every aspect will help you during the reassembly. Writing down the ORDER in which you remove the various parts will allow you to reverse that order when putting all the parts back onto the frame. The very first part you need is the dash decal because once you have repaired any issues with the frame and repainted it, that decal must be applied. At that point, you can begin to go over all of the parts you removed from the frame assembly, replace the ones that are worn out and repair things that can be repaired. Once the entire frame assembly is back together, turn your attention to repairing the front axle assembly and installing it. Then take care of the trans-axle unit. It should be drained and dismantled. New seals and new carrier bolts should be installed as part of your preventative maintenance program. The hood, fenders and other "tin" can then be repaired and refinished. The very last item should be the engine. If you follow this plan, the process becomes far less daunting because you will be tackling it a section at a time.
For sure you will need new rod ends for the drag link and tie rod, front wheel bearings, rear axle seals, brake shaft seal, shifter rod seal, top cover gasket, one quart or two quarts of Power Red paint depending on which year of tractor you end up with. Possibly a quart of Power White or a quart of Desert Sunset or a quart of Case Black. Using the Case Hardener is a good idea. You may have to straighten the front axle. You will probably need a new pivot pin. You may have to repair the area where the front axle resides. None of these things are a big deal. You may need to make a new wiring harness because the old wires are brittle from age. Most likely, you will need a new seat and possibly a new steering wheel.
If you do a thorough job, you will end up with a great garden tractor for a fraction of the cost of a new Ingersoll.
oldballs
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2009
- Messages
- 4,492
- Location
- Kansas...USA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620 , Case 448 , Kubota B2650
I've never met a guy that has the expertise and dedication that hydriv has. What a layout to follow. He has my applause.
Mike
Mike
OP
JaimesBeam
New member
Well, I got the Case 446 dug out, loaded onto a trailer, and brought it home...
It isn't pretty... The Snow plow is rusted out at the bottom center.
The Snowblower is missing a shaft that goes from the belt drive pulley
in the center to the chain drive on the side that runs the horizontal auger.
The Auger won't turn... I knew it needed new bearings though.
It has some Frankenstein exhaust setup, that needs cutouts for the hood.
I included a picture of the hydraulic valve on the left of the dash; I still think
it's the valve that is normally on the rear of the tractor. I don't know what else
to make of it. There's just a ball hitch on the rear of the tractor.
Someone splashed yellow paint on the hood, fenders and mowing deck; I
would have preferred flames myself
The rear tires seem to have Calcium Chloride in them, in addition to the
wheel weights, I can hear it rattling around in the tires.
The mower deck spins easily... Now to check if the mower will turn over
by hand...
It isn't pretty... The Snow plow is rusted out at the bottom center.
The Snowblower is missing a shaft that goes from the belt drive pulley
in the center to the chain drive on the side that runs the horizontal auger.
The Auger won't turn... I knew it needed new bearings though.
It has some Frankenstein exhaust setup, that needs cutouts for the hood.
I included a picture of the hydraulic valve on the left of the dash; I still think
it's the valve that is normally on the rear of the tractor. I don't know what else
to make of it. There's just a ball hitch on the rear of the tractor.
Someone splashed yellow paint on the hood, fenders and mowing deck; I
would have preferred flames myself
The rear tires seem to have Calcium Chloride in them, in addition to the
wheel weights, I can hear it rattling around in the tires.
The mower deck spins easily... Now to check if the mower will turn over
by hand...
OP
JaimesBeam
New member
Well, good news, the motor turns easily by hand.
I couldn't really find a good place to grab onto the shaft
to turn it with a wrench or anything, so I took a stick,
put two screws in one end, and stuck the screws through
the flywheel screen, and turned it easily. I easily turned
it around by hand several times.
I had taken the spark plugs out, and I could see a valve
opening and closing inside, but the spark plugs seem to
point toward the block. They are in the top of the heads,
on each side of the engine, pointing down.
So I hooked up a battery, and turned the key, the headlights
came on (there doesn't seem to be a headlight switch), and
I gave it a very short crank; and it turned over very easily.
I put my hand over the spark plug hole, and gave it a bit
longer crank, and I could feel the cylinder puffing against
my hand. Both cylinders were breathing nicely.
The starter is quite noisy though. I couldn't even find the
starter under all the tin. I couldn't find how to remove the
tin very easily. I think there's some triangular pieces added
to the top of the cylinder around the exhaust and spark plug
holes; a bit of a mess. There's a weird thing on top of the
cylinder tin like a fuse holder. I'll get a picture tomorrow
when it's light. There's also something that looks like a
heavy heat sink behind the dashboard on the left side, near
the starter relay.
I hooked up the spark plugs and put them against the cylinder
heads, and gave it another crank. :-( No Spark!!! :-( I'm
not sure where to go next, as I can't see much of the guts
and wiring of the motor.
Oh well, more tomorrow with pictures...
Thanks, Jim.
I couldn't really find a good place to grab onto the shaft
to turn it with a wrench or anything, so I took a stick,
put two screws in one end, and stuck the screws through
the flywheel screen, and turned it easily. I easily turned
it around by hand several times.
I had taken the spark plugs out, and I could see a valve
opening and closing inside, but the spark plugs seem to
point toward the block. They are in the top of the heads,
on each side of the engine, pointing down.
So I hooked up a battery, and turned the key, the headlights
came on (there doesn't seem to be a headlight switch), and
I gave it a very short crank; and it turned over very easily.
I put my hand over the spark plug hole, and gave it a bit
longer crank, and I could feel the cylinder puffing against
my hand. Both cylinders were breathing nicely.
The starter is quite noisy though. I couldn't even find the
starter under all the tin. I couldn't find how to remove the
tin very easily. I think there's some triangular pieces added
to the top of the cylinder around the exhaust and spark plug
holes; a bit of a mess. There's a weird thing on top of the
cylinder tin like a fuse holder. I'll get a picture tomorrow
when it's light. There's also something that looks like a
heavy heat sink behind the dashboard on the left side, near
the starter relay.
I hooked up the spark plugs and put them against the cylinder
heads, and gave it another crank. :-( No Spark!!! :-( I'm
not sure where to go next, as I can't see much of the guts
and wiring of the motor.
Oh well, more tomorrow with pictures...
Thanks, Jim.
oldballs
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2009
- Messages
- 4,492
- Location
- Kansas...USA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620 , Case 448 , Kubota B2650
Thanks for the pictures JB. Here's hoping your plan is already working out.
Well, I got the Case 446 dug out, loaded onto a trailer, and brought it home...
It isn't pretty...
Perhaps to you it isn't pretty but to me, it's beautiful. First off, all of the tin looks to be in nice shape. The fenders are not all bent from the improper use of tire chains. None of the tin seems to be butchered in any way which will make the restoration fairly easy. The only oddball item is the switch on the right side of the dashboard but that is easily filled in with a welder and ground flat. The new dash decal will cover minor scars.
The Snow plow is rusted out at the bottom center.
The Utility Blade is a mystery to me. I have never seen an early-style blade that uses channel iron for the yoke. All of the early-style blades used heavy-wall pipe. I don't know if that blade is worth the effort to repair. For sure, it is possible to patch the rotted section with some 1/8" steel sheet welded over the damaged area but such a patch does not aid in getting snow or dirt to flow over the blade when it is angled.
The Snowblower is missing a shaft that goes from the belt drive pulley
in the center to the chain drive on the side that runs the horizontal auger.
The Auger won't turn... I knew it needed new bearings though.
The snowcaster seems to be missing the chute crank handle, as well. The missing shaft and sprocket are not a big deal but the missing pulley is because it is rather expensive. Rarely do I ever see a snowcaster being parted out on e-Bay. Whether you can find a low cost substitute pulley at a local supplier is hard to say. We can get into that later. I think that the snowcaster is a Model H, which is the first one that uses the Snap Fast system which Case introduced in 1971.
It has some Frankenstein exhaust setup, that needs cutouts for the hood.
You have no idea just how lucky you are. The exhaust system is not only perfectly correct for this year of tractor but it is in excellent shape. Those mufflers and pipes have been obsolete for about ten or more years. The last time they were available, the cost was more than $200.00 per side. Case used that cut-out hood and muffler system from 1972 until early 1976.
I included a picture of the hydraulic valve on the left of the dash; I still think
it's the valve that is normally on the rear of the tractor. I don't know what else
to make of it.
Once again, you have introduced a mystery to me. The valve on the left side of the dash tower is called a Flow Control Valve kit. Once again, I have never, ever, ever seen this valve installed on any Colt, Case or Ingersoll tractor unless the rear PTO valve was also installed. How that happened boggles my mind because the Parts Manuals always show the steel hydraulic lines which connect the two valves together. A Flow Control Valve or FCV gives the operator finite control over the forward motion of the tractor at very low speeds. It is an option which is recommended by Case whenever a Buyer wishes to add a rototiller to the tractor package but you cannot power the tiller unless the optional rear PTO kit is also added. It does come in handy when blowing snow and perhaps that was the reason for it being there. I am curious as to whether this valve is connected to steel lines or whether one or more hoses were used.
There's just a ball hitch on the rear of the tractor.
It is very common for owners to put a trailer ball there.
Someone splashed yellow paint on the hood, fenders and mowing deck; I
would have preferred flames myself
Essentially, the paint scheme on this tractor is correct. Originally, the hood, fenders, seat pedestal, fuel tank and seat shell were all painted Desert Sunset. Pretty much everything else was painted Power Red, including the mower deck, utility blade, snowcaster and rims. Only the grille area and the engine were painted black. However, you are correct that someone has splashed what seems to be Federal Yellow on certain areas. This colour was used on the 600 Series loader tractors and it is a common mistake made by owners when they go to the Case dealer to buy paint.
The rear tires seem to have Calcium Chloride in them, in addition to the
wheel weights, I can hear it rattling around in the tires.
IF.... the tires are loaded with CC and no tubes were used, then that is a bad thing. CC will destroy the rims if allowed to come in contact with it. Look at the valve stems to see if tubes are used. Hopefully, the tires were loaded with windshield washer antifreeze, which is not corrosive.
The mower deck spins easily... Now to check if the mower will turn over
by hand...
The mower deck is an H-Series which is the very first Snap Fast style of deck offered by Case. Therefore, it is correct for this year of tractor. When you flip it over, there should be a hard rubber roller at the rear of the deck in the middle. Quite often, the brackets that support that roller wear through, thus releasing the roller when the deck is raised off the ground and the roller is lost forever.
I very much like what I see and to me this was an excellent buy for the money.
OP
JaimesBeam
New member
Perhaps to you it isn't pretty but to me, it's beautiful.
First off, all of the tin looks to be in nice shape. The fenders
are not all bent from the improper use of tire chains.
None of the tin seems to be butchered in any way which
will make the restoration fairly easy. The only oddball
item is the switch on the right side of the dashboard but
that is easily filled in with a welder and ground flat. The
new dash decal will cover minor scars.
I'm glad you like what you see. Knowing that these details
are the way it was supposed to be makes a big difference
to me; which I didn't know before.
The Utility Blade is a mystery to me. I have never seen
an early-style blade that uses channel iron for the yoke.
All of the early-style blades used heavy-wall pipe. I don't
know if that blade is worth the effort to repair. For sure,
it is possible to patch the rotted section with some 1/8"
steel sheet welded over the damaged area but such a
patch does not aid in getting snow or dirt to flow over
the blade when it is angled.
Is it likely that it's not a Case implement? The most use
I'd have with this is grading my mostly sand driveway, and
maybe flattening some piles of dirt and anthills.
Not high on my list, but I'll probably get it welded up sometime.
The snowcaster seems to be missing the chute crank handle,
as well. The missing shaft and sprocket are not a big deal but
the missing pulley is because it is rather expensive. Rarely do
I ever see a snowcaster being parted out on e-Bay. Whether
you can find a low cost substitute pulley at a local supplier is
hard to say. We can get into that later. I think that the snowcaster
is a Model H, which is the first one that uses the Snap Fast system
which Case introduced in 1971.
What's the difference between a snowblower and a snowcaster and
other similar terms?
I have a orange pipe handle, and a wire rod handle as seen in the
pictures showing the missing shaft. The end support is bent up a
little too. The auger needs to come off, and have it's bearings replaced.
You have no idea just how lucky you are. The exhaust system
is not only perfectly correct for this year of tractor but it is in
excellent shape. Those mufflers and pipes have been obsolete
for about ten or more years. The last time they were available,
the cost was more than $200.00 per side. Case used that cut-out
hood and muffler system from 1972 until early 1976.
I feel so lucky
I'm glad to know it's not some cobbled together arrangement.
I was wondering when I took a close look at it, it looked factory.
When I do need to replace this, what can I replace it with?
Once again, you have introduced a mystery to me.
The valve on the left side of the dash tower is called a
Flow Control Valve kit. Once again, I have never, ever,
ever seen this valve installed on any Colt, Case or Ingersoll
tractor unless the rear PTO valve was also installed. How
that happened boggles my mind because the Parts Manuals
always show the steel hydraulic lines which connect the two
valves together. A Flow Control Valve or FCV gives the operator
finite control over the forward motion of the tractor at very low
speeds. It is an option which is recommended by Case whenever a
Buyer wishes to add a rototiller to the tractor package but you
cannot power the tiller unless the optional rear PTO kit is also added.
It does come in handy when blowing snow and perhaps that was the
reason for it being there. I am curious as to whether this valve is
connected to steel lines or whether one or more hoses were used.
Well, I was told it was to direct the hydraulics to the front of the rear.
But I believe you are correct, especially since there aren't any hydraulic
fittings on the front of the back. It was probably added for snowblowing.
I've added a bunch of pictures of the piping going to the valve. it all looks
stock to me. I also ran across something on ebay called a holding valve
for a Case 446. What's that about?
IF.... the tires are loaded with CC and no tubes were used,
then that is a bad thing. CC will destroy the rims if allowed to
come in contact with it. Look at the valve stems to see if tubes
are used. Hopefully, the tires were loaded with windshield washer
antifreeze, which is not corrosive.
I was told there were no tubes in the tires, but the valve stems look
like tube stems. Tubeless valve stems bulge out before going into
the rim; these don't.
The mower deck is an H-Series which is the very first
Snap Fast style of deck offered by Case. Therefore, it is correct
for this year of tractor. When you flip it over, there should be a
hard rubber roller at the rear of the deck in the middle. Quite
often, the brackets that support that roller wear through, thus
releasing the roller when the deck is raised off the ground and
the roller is lost forever.
There is no sign of there ever being a roller in the middle of the
back of the deck. There are wheels on the back two corners.
I did find a Operators Manual on the Internet, with a wiring diagram.
I've got to figure out why I don't have any spark. Where can I buy a
coil/distributor if I need one? I don't know if I can upload the manual
to this website...
Thanks again, Jim.
First off, all of the tin looks to be in nice shape. The fenders
are not all bent from the improper use of tire chains.
None of the tin seems to be butchered in any way which
will make the restoration fairly easy. The only oddball
item is the switch on the right side of the dashboard but
that is easily filled in with a welder and ground flat. The
new dash decal will cover minor scars.
I'm glad you like what you see. Knowing that these details
are the way it was supposed to be makes a big difference
to me; which I didn't know before.
The Utility Blade is a mystery to me. I have never seen
an early-style blade that uses channel iron for the yoke.
All of the early-style blades used heavy-wall pipe. I don't
know if that blade is worth the effort to repair. For sure,
it is possible to patch the rotted section with some 1/8"
steel sheet welded over the damaged area but such a
patch does not aid in getting snow or dirt to flow over
the blade when it is angled.
Is it likely that it's not a Case implement? The most use
I'd have with this is grading my mostly sand driveway, and
maybe flattening some piles of dirt and anthills.
Not high on my list, but I'll probably get it welded up sometime.
The snowcaster seems to be missing the chute crank handle,
as well. The missing shaft and sprocket are not a big deal but
the missing pulley is because it is rather expensive. Rarely do
I ever see a snowcaster being parted out on e-Bay. Whether
you can find a low cost substitute pulley at a local supplier is
hard to say. We can get into that later. I think that the snowcaster
is a Model H, which is the first one that uses the Snap Fast system
which Case introduced in 1971.
What's the difference between a snowblower and a snowcaster and
other similar terms?
I have a orange pipe handle, and a wire rod handle as seen in the
pictures showing the missing shaft. The end support is bent up a
little too. The auger needs to come off, and have it's bearings replaced.
You have no idea just how lucky you are. The exhaust system
is not only perfectly correct for this year of tractor but it is in
excellent shape. Those mufflers and pipes have been obsolete
for about ten or more years. The last time they were available,
the cost was more than $200.00 per side. Case used that cut-out
hood and muffler system from 1972 until early 1976.
I feel so lucky
I'm glad to know it's not some cobbled together arrangement.
I was wondering when I took a close look at it, it looked factory.
When I do need to replace this, what can I replace it with?
Once again, you have introduced a mystery to me.
The valve on the left side of the dash tower is called a
Flow Control Valve kit. Once again, I have never, ever,
ever seen this valve installed on any Colt, Case or Ingersoll
tractor unless the rear PTO valve was also installed. How
that happened boggles my mind because the Parts Manuals
always show the steel hydraulic lines which connect the two
valves together. A Flow Control Valve or FCV gives the operator
finite control over the forward motion of the tractor at very low
speeds. It is an option which is recommended by Case whenever a
Buyer wishes to add a rototiller to the tractor package but you
cannot power the tiller unless the optional rear PTO kit is also added.
It does come in handy when blowing snow and perhaps that was the
reason for it being there. I am curious as to whether this valve is
connected to steel lines or whether one or more hoses were used.
Well, I was told it was to direct the hydraulics to the front of the rear.
But I believe you are correct, especially since there aren't any hydraulic
fittings on the front of the back. It was probably added for snowblowing.
I've added a bunch of pictures of the piping going to the valve. it all looks
stock to me. I also ran across something on ebay called a holding valve
for a Case 446. What's that about?
IF.... the tires are loaded with CC and no tubes were used,
then that is a bad thing. CC will destroy the rims if allowed to
come in contact with it. Look at the valve stems to see if tubes
are used. Hopefully, the tires were loaded with windshield washer
antifreeze, which is not corrosive.
I was told there were no tubes in the tires, but the valve stems look
like tube stems. Tubeless valve stems bulge out before going into
the rim; these don't.
The mower deck is an H-Series which is the very first
Snap Fast style of deck offered by Case. Therefore, it is correct
for this year of tractor. When you flip it over, there should be a
hard rubber roller at the rear of the deck in the middle. Quite
often, the brackets that support that roller wear through, thus
releasing the roller when the deck is raised off the ground and
the roller is lost forever.
There is no sign of there ever being a roller in the middle of the
back of the deck. There are wheels on the back two corners.
I did find a Operators Manual on the Internet, with a wiring diagram.
I've got to figure out why I don't have any spark. Where can I buy a
coil/distributor if I need one? I don't know if I can upload the manual
to this website...
Thanks again, Jim.
OP
JaimesBeam
New member
PS: If some collector wants to buy this historic tractor off me
for what I paid for it, or wants to trade me for a newer model,
I'm open for offers. I even more convinced that the Case 446
is the tractor for me, but I think I need a newer model in
slightly better shape.
As much as I'd like to restore it, I need a running tractor to get
some work done!
Many Thanks, Jim.
for what I paid for it, or wants to trade me for a newer model,
I'm open for offers. I even more convinced that the Case 446
is the tractor for me, but I think I need a newer model in
slightly better shape.
As much as I'd like to restore it, I need a running tractor to get
some work done!
Many Thanks, Jim.
Operator and Parts Manuals are specific to the serial (PIN) number of the tractor. Over the years, many changes were made to these tractors. The 446 began in 1972 and ended in 1988. If you do not have the correct manuals, then you will not be accessing the proper information.
First, you need to diagnose what is wrong. Buying parts in the hopes of fixing the problem is not the way to go. A coil alone is about $80.00 or so. What if you buy one and find out that your coil is OK. No one takes back electrical parts. You buy it....you own it.
Here is how to test the coil. Disconnect the wires going to both terminals. Clean and re-gap your spark plugs. Check the two ignition wires and the holes they go into at the coil for corrosion or damage. Bad ignition wires can mean no spark. Connect a jumper lead from the battery + to the coil +. Then take another jumper and connect the battery - post to a clean spot on the engine where it will have a good ground. Take a third jumper and connect it to the coil's - terminal. With a spark plug connected to one high-tension lead and solidly grounded to the engine, touch the other end of the third jumper wire to the battery - terminal momentarily. Touch and remove, touch and remove. If the coil is OK, then you should see a spark jump the plug gap.
If you get spark, then you just use a multi-meter set to the DC scale and check for 12 volts at the end of the wire that comes from the ignition switch and previously went to the coil's + terminal before you disconnected it. Of course, the key must be turned to the ON position and also to the START position to make sure you are still getting voltage as the starter is spinning the engine over.
If you have voltage there, then the next step is to check the points. This is why you need the manuals. They show you where the points are and they tell you what the gap should be. Of course, you can just follow the wire that you removed from the coil's - terminal. Check that wire for damage. If it is broken or the insulation is cut into, it could be shorting out all the time and that will prevent spark from happening.
Newer tractors will invariably cost you more money and they will still need repair. There's a huge price spread between the $500.00 price point you are at right now and the price for a new one. Condition is everything and Maine is not known for having a lot of these tractors around compared to some other states. Your tractor came with a couple of mysteries but those have been solved thanks to the latest photos. Therefore, I don't foresee anyone knocking your door down to buy this unit.