Flail Mower Advice

   / Flail Mower Advice #1  

sfabern

New member
Joined
May 27, 2014
Messages
16
Location
North Stamford, Ct
Tractor
Kubota B 3300
I operate a five foot New Holland 918L flail with a 2011 Kubota B3300 (33 engine Hp), I mow a 5 acre field with various pasture grasses. Unfortunately, it does not cut some of the tall (2-3 ft) grasses well, essentially rolling them under and then they pop up. Even a second pass will not always get them. I'm no expert, but I think it is orchard grass, with its tough stem, that is the main culprit. I tried sharpening the knives this past winter (about 200 knives, I think), but no improvement. I am operating the tractor as sufficiently slow speeds in the heavy going, and the mower does not operate under strain at the slow speeds in these heavy patches. So what I am beginning to think is that this mower is just a finishing mower for light grasses and lawns. Am I correct? Is the HP of my Kubota a factor (I wouldn't have thought so for this light flail)?

Is a medium flail the answer? I don't need to cut brush, just pasture grasses. I'd like to get a 73" model and am wondering if the 33 HP is sufficient? I am aware that Caroni makes one that they recommend for 30 to 60 HP, but I don't know if that is the power at the PTO or the engine, and I don't like to have a tractor at the low end of the range. Any ideas about my problem and suggestions for an appropriate flail will be much appreciated.

Sam
 
   / Flail Mower Advice #2  
Welcome to the forum!

:welcome:

That does seem like a problem. I'm going to move your thread on over to somewhere it is more likely to be seen. Hopefully someone will come along with an answer.
 
   / Flail Mower Advice #3  
Sam,

I have a new 918L flail mower and it works very well in grass about 6" deep or so. This is a fine cut mower for light duty use and I run mine on a New Holland TC29DA. You are mowing grass heights that unit is not designed for. I work for the Turnpike here and we use Alamo Interstater flails and they tend to roll the grass especially when it is the height of your pasture. We run the same fine cut blades as you 918L on the medians, shoulders and fields. Buy a Woods Brushbull 60 bush hog and keep it mowed about 2-3 times a year and you will be happy. I am currently mowing more than 80 miles of roadside forestry chopping with a twin-spindle Alamo RH96 bush hog on a Deere 5083E Cab including stumps and saplings more than 2" in diameter on very steep grades. Never been so scared at times as I have been the past four months mowing a mile per day when all you can see in front of you is the emblem on the hood but what a blast. If you decide on another flail, get one with hammers/duckfeet like our new Kubota MX 110 with Tigercat boom flail has. Those mow better since there is more surface area to cut with.

Brian
 
   / Flail Mower Advice #4  
I have an older 72" Caldwell Barracuda flail that will cut up to about 1" Mesquite saplings and leave a finish mower look. It will cut the field wet or dry. It has 32 of the spoon style cutters and cuts any grass I can get the tractor over. I use a 50hp Ford 3910 to drive it and it will exercise the governor in heavy grasses but won't change speed with the usual 1-2' field "flowers". It spins the blades pretty fast though. There looks to be about 2.5 to 1 overdrive using three large drive belts. I use it almost exclusively but have a Ford 954 rotary for heavy brush in the back lot and for backing up under Mesquite trees. (Long reach) I've never been able to get a nice cut with that in grasses. And I've tried all manner of settings and angles. It just shreds and leaves clumps of grass everywhere.
 
   / Flail Mower Advice #5  
Sam, if you decide to upgrade your flail mower or replace it with a rotary mower, let me know how much you want for the New Holland. I live in CT as well, and have been looking for a good flail. I have my eye on a 73" Caroni, but would consider something used in good condition for the right price. I currently mow my 2 acre field weekly with my lawn tractor, and am looking for a flail mower that I could do the field every 2-3 weeks or so. Previously I mowed the field once or twice a year with my 60" Bush Hog, but I like the lawn look, and a finish flail would be up my alley. Thanks! Tom.
 
   / Flail Mower Advice
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Sam, if you decide to upgrade your flail mower or replace it with a rotary mower, let me know how much you want for the New Holland. I live in CT as well, and have been looking for a good flail. I have my eye on a 73" Caroni, but would consider something used in good condition for the right price. I currently mow my 2 acre field weekly with my lawn tractor, and am looking for a flail mower that I could do the field every 2-3 weeks or so. Previously I mowed the field once or twice a year with my 60" Bush Hog, but I like the lawn look, and a finish flail would be up my alley. Thanks! Tom.

Tom, Be patient. I probably will get another flail (between now and next Summer), and if I do, we can talk. I too am looking at the 73" Caroni.

Sam
 
   / Flail Mower Advice #7  
You can tell if you are short on HP when you can't keep up PTO RPM at travel speed. If your RPMs stay fine, you are good. If they drop, you need to slow down or get a bigger tractor. You may still need to slow down so the flail can spend more time delivering a better cut even if you have HP to spare.

My 7' 719 works great behind my 32hp 25ish PTO HP L3200 doing 3-4' pasture grass.

When mowing that tall if grass I do end up with pretty bad uncut tire tracks. Tractor rolls over the grass & mashes it down so the flail can't cut it. Some people say the flails suck stuff off the ground, but I see no evidence of that. If I care enough about not leaving stripes I need to do a 2nd pass or keep up on the mowing better.
 
   / Flail Mower Advice #8  
Just to reiterate what others have said, this is definitely a scenario where a rotary would probably make more sense, at least for the first mowing. The other option is to start mowing as high as possible, then make a second pass at the lower cutting height that you want.

As a manufacturer of flails for 30+ years, we've seen this more than a few times. The issue when cutting very tall grass (especially if the height exceeds the depth of the mower) is that the grass gets pushed down by the front of the mower and is too tall to be allowed to lift up by the time the knives reach it. The suction effect does work with the proper knife, but if the grass is being held down by the front of the mower, it's certainly not going to be very effective.

I would either borrow someone's rotary for the first cut then maintain it with your flail, or start mowing at a taller height then make your way down. My number and contact e-mail are below, and I'm always willing to help out if you have questions!
 
   / Flail Mower Advice #9  
It's sounds like you may have a fine cutter shaft (200 knives), made more for grooming. My 7 1/2' MOTT Flail only has about 88 knives and is considered a coarse cutter shaft, it will cut tall grass and 1 1/2" saplings. Mott/Alamo also makes the fine cutter shaft it has over 200 knives, to me the design of the knives would not be able to cut tall grass, on the other hand the coarse cutter shaft has will not leave the lawn looking as good a groomer mower, others my dispute that, LOL
 
   / Flail Mower Advice #10  
Just to reiterate what others have said, this is definitely a scenario where a rotary would probably make more sense, at least for the first mowing. The other option is to start mowing as high as possible, then make a second pass at the lower cutting height that you want.

As a manufacturer of flails for 30+ years, we've seen this more than a few times. The issue when cutting very tall grass (especially if the height exceeds the depth of the mower) is that the grass gets pushed down by the front of the mower and is too tall to be allowed to lift up by the time the knives reach it. The suction effect does work with the proper knife, but if the grass is being held down by the front of the mower, it's certainly not going to be very effective.

I would either borrow someone's rotary for the first cut then maintain it with your flail, or start mowing at a taller height then make your way down. My number and contact e-mail are below, and I'm always willing to help out if you have questions!

Im not the OP but - GREAT INFO!!!!! and a helpful post. Thanks!
 
 
 
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