Flail Mower Flail Mower...Confusion

[db2]

I've searched the threads for info on flail mowers. Sort of contradictory information out there. I have a NH TC40DA and I am looking at purchasing a Befco H40 of H70 series mower 72" or 74" wide. An optional overrunning clutch (driveline) is available as are fine cut, detach and Y-blades.

My question to experienced uses is how tough are flail mowers. What are the different blades used for. Some say they won't stand up to 1 inch saplings and others say they will. My intended use is to cut unused hay fields and areas in the yard where my tractor fits. The land is hilly and a lot of it is uneven. As well there are a few rocks poking out but I could avoid most of those. Some areas have shrubs (spirea) but most of the area is grass and weeds. I presently cut with a rotary mower (brush hog) and a JD 48" riding lawn mower. The wider flail mower may help me get the job done a little quicker with nicer results. Will a flail mower work for me?

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[eberlej]

I have a 60" Bush Hog flail mower that I would not trade for anything. As far as I'm concerned, the biggest difference between flail mowers are the blades. I've seen mowers with very lightweight blades that are relatively inexpensive. My BH blades run about $4.00 each times 80. Consequently, you try not to do wholesale blade changes. The BH blades angle about 45 degees close to the end and blades run in pairs, angled out making a "Y". I believe that some of the lighter blades incorporate a "Y" in an individual blade. Remember, the heavier the blade, the more durable. A keep a few on hand as I break one or two a year. You will know as soon as you break one because the machine will be thrown out of balance and make lots of noise and vibrate a lot. This may not be a factor with the lighter bladed machines. If I remember correctly, the fine cut blade forms an "L" and I think they had a rock blade that was shorter. The standard angle blade leaves a very nice finish.

Usage: It will not compare in capability with the rotary mower. I would recommend in knocking it down with the RM and then going over it with the FM. I routinely run over dead branches a couple of inches thick and make them disappear. If you get a rock under there, it makes a lot of noise until it finally spits it out or digests it. I try very hard to stay away from the rocks due to the blade costs. You can mow stuff thats a couple feet tall but probably not as fast as with a RM. You probalby would never use your riding mower again if you can get the flail mower on it.

The most remarkable difference between a finishing type mower and a flail mower is how clean the flail mower is. When I ran a finishing mower, I would be covered with dirt by day's end and have to hose off outside. I can run the flail mower all day and hardly have any dirt on me.

Last observation that I'll make note of is blade rotation. My BH has a reverse rotation. The draw back is that it will not pick up the wheel tracks and they will be visible the next day. I believe that there are machines with a forward rotation and this would pick up the grass again as it's cut after your tractor wheels layed the grass down. This also depends on the type of grasses you are cutting.

Hope this helps.

 

[db2]

Thanks for the reply. You've answered a number of my questions. I'll check out the different flail mowers available in my area and see if there are noticeable differences in the blade metal.

 

[Rick_Taylor]

I have a BEFCO H-40 72" flail. I have the fine cut blades which have a left and right facing blade on each hanger. I am trying to trade it for a finish mower. The flail cuts grass wonderfully, can't tell the cut from my ZTR. It doesn't leave wheel marks. The best part is that it is so short. It feels like part of the tractor. I had a NH TC-40 when I bought it and now have a Kubota L4330HSTC. Works fine with either tractor. The problem is when I get off the pretty grass and onto fields covered with our 'native grasses' (big weeds). First the blades dull quickly and sharpening 76 blades is the pits. Two, they are fragile. If you hit any of your rocks plan on replacing several blades. Three, the blades for this mower are expensive and do not seem to be available at any of the usual internet discounters. My dealer charges $6-9 each. (Left and right are differently priced, go figure). Hit a one inch branch, you better hope it is mostly dead and ready for the compost pile. Hit a green 1" limb and there go more blades. My mower is clean, in good shape, and still has the stickers on it. PM me for a VERY good deal if you still want a BEFCO flail.

 

[db2]

Rick:

From your experience it doesn't sound like the Befco with fine blades will not do the job I want it to do. I'm wondering if the fine blades are the issue. From the above post it seems the Brush Hog stands up fine to "coarser" material.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[BruceNorthEast]

db2:

I'm new to flail mowers, I'm borrowing a friends for a few months.

About all I can tell you is what he told me: he originally got it to use in an old hayfield that wasn't being harvested (keep growth down) and found it was just too slow - this is a 7' machine.

I guess it's great for maintaining a decent sized grassy area (maybe a park?), and it mulches everything up real well.

He's shredded a brush pile with it, a couple inches thick.

It has a full width roller that follows the blades to help prevent scalping while maintaining a close cut. But he warned that it could be bent if I catch a good size rock that doesn't let it ride up and over...

Bottom line, if you are looking to keep a large (and possibly overgrown) area relatively well maintained in the shortest time possible, then a flail mower probably isn't your ideal choice. But if you want to convert some pasture into an extended lawn/grass area and don't mind taking it a little slower then it may well be.
Bruce.

 

[db2]

Bruce: Thanks for the information....I appreciate everyones input. I'm learning some important things here.

Regards

 

[Karlo]

flail heads vary quite a bit from a very light tooth to substantially heayy brush tooth that will cut in a forward or reverse direction, Ive found tha while the brush ax typ teeth are pretty aggressive for brush and will cut grass there is a tooth that is verry durable and is a good combination type application. It originated on the bomford flail and is available thru them or in the us will probably be sold through the alamo/tiger group the tooth looks like a small boot, but mows best in the forward direction. I have never seen one thrown or broken, they ware well and as for sharpening this is a flail not a reel and replacement every so often is maintenance.check the hs 40 http://www.bomford-turner.com/
good luck
Karl

 

[sandman2234]

I have a used 6'6" JD flail mower. Very happy with it, but I only cut grass at the church with it. I can cut in 8 or 9th gear with a nice finish, but it gets done by someone every couple weeks, so there isn't much of a load. For the rought stuff, I use my bush hog.
Blades are about $2 at JD.
David from jax

 

[db2]

Fellas Thanks for the info. I'll be dropping in to a few dealers in the next couple of weeks to see what they have to say. I may decide to go with a wider "brushhog" instead of the flail mower. I was hoping that the flail would be able to be used in the hayfield and some rough pasture but right now that doesn't look like a good idea.

Thanks