flail mowers waist HP?

[greg_g]

Other concern was being able to mow at 6-8 inches

More easily done with a rotary cutter, but 8" is usually the upper limit for TPH type rotary cutters too. The higher you raise a RC, the less suction there is below the deck. So depending on how tall the stuff is going into the deck, you may find an 8" setting leaves an uneven cut left behind.

//greg//

 

[leonz]

Hmm, interesting bit of information. It's been 20 years since I ran a Befco 3pt rear finish mower, but it was on a nice lush lawn in Connecticut. Maybe I should look into some sort of heavy duty rear finish mower instead.

I still want one dual duty mower, and like the idea of 4 wheels on the ground. Was wondering how the big long roller of the flail was going to handle the rough terrain, many turns, and rocks that grow out of the ground like mushrooms all season. Other concern was being able to mow at 6-8 inches, since that is the only way to keep the field grasses from burning up and dying in the intense sun of 1.5 miles above sea level.

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As far as the rear roller is concerned the issues of turning are no problem
as the roller is simply following the tractors turning arc where the mower
roller track is wider than the tractor.

If it falls apart when turning the bearing is shot from lack of grease and
simply inspecting the hangers for the roller to assure the bolts are tight.


The roller will have no issues with rolling over rocks at normal mowing
speeds as they are made of thick tubular steel.


As far as burning the grass you can simply set the rear roller to its lowest
mounting adjustment on the side weldments which will create the highest
cut for the flail mower so no worries there.

If you purchase a flailmower with the finish rotor you can simply readjust
the rear roller for a higher cut on the good turf you have if you desire to do so.



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Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:

 

[leonz]

I was asking for your definition because it is possible to do more work accomplishing a basic task, but get something for that extra work. With a flail you get finer chopped clippings. Problem is you stir a lot more air than a rotary mower. That is a sure source for relative inefficiency, ... whereas the part of the energy spent on finer clippings may be extra energy well spent because its what you want. A better result for your purpose. You get something you value to factor against the greater energy used to cut the grass. You are doing more work useful to you for the extra energy. Easy to see how that could be considered to be as, or more, efficient.
larry

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Hello Larry hope all is well,

The largest thing which I know helps finish rotor flail mowers for me
are the air paddles on my Mathews Lawn Genie.

The air paddles are full rotor width hinged steel paddles three inches
long and 48 inches wide that are set between the four knife rows
separated by two rows of knives with the air paddles at 180-degree polar opposites.

One of the other members (Hooked on HP) has a 5 foot Lawn Genie Pick Up Mower
with a five foot finish rotor and five foot air paddles as well.


Finding that the Caroni and other brands do not have the air paddle for the 2 and 4
row rotors was a bit of a surprise and dissappointment as the air paddles add
considerably to the suction of the grass slicer flail knives.

The Wessex pick up flail mowers as well as the italian pick up mowers have the
air paddles to aid in filling the grass hopper on the mowers.

Air paddles could be added to the two and four row rotors and it is something that
can be done by a machine shop for the mower owner and the mower would be much
more capable as the increased suction created by the air paddles would aid the
A, B,and F rotors considerably in mowing.

If most of the flailmowers sold had the air paddles they would mow much more efficiently
as the air paddles would add that much more centrifugal mass to the rotor mass in total
adding to the throw weight created by the centrifugal force created by the power take off,
gear box, belt drive and V-belts used to deliver the power to the flailmotor rotor to do work.

 

[AlanB]

I have an old Mott Finishing type flail and a KK RC. Both around 5'. I have a 1925 NH (Predecessor to the TC33 or 35)

Flail definitely takes more HP, overheats the tractor quicker, burns more fuel, makes it work harder in similar grass situations.

For me, each has it's place. I bought the flail for my wife's lawncare business when she had very overgrown houses to mow, the flail tends not to throw stuff like a RC. An RC in a tight neighborhood where you have kids playing etc, even with chains, flaps etc, when it gets hold of that Dog chain you missed, or metal pipe, or water meter cover turned on end pieces are headed out.

If I had to have just one, we use the RC more, and can cut more variety of stuff with it, but there is some drawbacks in some situations.

Also for me, the Flail is considerably more maintenance and it is $$ when then dang little clips, rings and blades start coming off (after hitting all the aforementioned stuff) none of it is expensive on its own, but I tend not to loose one, but look back and see a group gone.

Good luck on your decision.