Flaring tubing

[wixthedog]

I choose to stay with the .065". It is a little harder to work with but when you start putting bends in tubing the outside of the turn gets "drawn" and the wall thickness reduces. I've never cut one in half to see how much, but it does weaken it. The added safety is worth it in my mind.
As far as making the flare on the thicker stuff, lubrication seems to help alot. I use anti-sieze compound. Just a light coating on the anvil of the flare tool and on the threads of the screw. (I have the cheap screw type, I've never used a nice hydraulic one like in your picture!) It stays where you put it and seems to do a good job. I'm sure there is something better and more appropriate out there but this has worked for me so I've never really looked.

.065 will work just fine but. 035 is easier to handle and rated for much more than your tractor will produce...unless you install an intensifier anyhow. Good deal on your flaring tool, they are handy creatures to have. I bend a lot of tubing (mostly #4 and #6 jic) at work and I do it with an Imperial 400F. Great tool but more than $100! Best advise I can give is to always use a saw, not a tube cutter, and make sure the end is as straight cut as possible.

 

[wdchyd]

Best advise I can give is to always use a saw, not a tube cutter

Why would this be the best advice given.??......wouldn't it better advice to suggest heavier wall thickness due to corrosion instead of .037" wall..??..

 

[crazyal]

I'll stick with .065" wall. I'm not looking to save a few bucks and I don't think I'll have too much of a problem bending it. I've never had much luck with a pipe cutter. The burr on the inside edge of the pipe is always a pain. Usually I use a drill bit or countersink in a drill to remove it. A nice clean cut from a cut off saw needs no work so that's what I'll use. Also I was told (not sure if it's true yet) that a pipe cutter will harden soft stainless and make flaring much harder. I have lots of stainless at work to play with.

 

[wixthedog]

Why would this be the best advice given.??......wouldn't it better advice to suggest heavier wall thickness due to corrosion instead of .037" wall..??..

Its not always applicable to go with the thickest wall tubing you can find. Sure, it will not hurt to use .065 but .035 (if available and thats what you have handy) will not hurt anything. Corrosion is not an issue with 316 SS tubing at any rate. I pass 5K regularly through .035 with several bends in it. My best advise stands to use a hacksaw, a file, and a quality flaring tool.

I'll stick with .065" wall. I'm not looking to save a few bucks and I don't think I'll have too much of a problem bending it. I've never had much luck with a pipe cutter. The burr on the inside edge of the pipe is always a pain. Usually I use a drill bit or countersink in a drill to remove it. A nice clean cut from a cut off saw needs no work so that's what I'll use. Also I was told (not sure if it's true yet) that a pipe cutter will harden soft stainless and make flaring much harder. I have lots of stainless at work to play with.

If you can use .065 it will not hurt anything, I never said it would. .035 is most often more readily available, cheaper, and easier to use. Pipe cutters can easily deform the tubing and create a sharp bur like you said. A hack saw and a file is the way to go.