Flat face hyd. coupling "pressure release" tool

[Rustyiron]

Threw these together during shop time with all the recent snow. It seems lately that all my hyd. attachments are needing me to "crack a line" to release about a tsp. of fluid to connect them. Very frustrating, and yes I know how to release the pressure before you disconnect. I'm convinced that it only takes a few degrees of temp. difference to expand the fluid and create enough pressure to make it impossible to do. Pretty simple, for the male end I just made a slot to hold the fitting in one of the recessed groove and use a bolt to screw into the middle part to release the pressure. The female side I found an old socket that fit (with a little grinding) into the proper "ring" on the face and plunger that is hand activated. They seem to work well so far.

 

[oldnslo]

Rusty,
A word of caution on the flat face QD's. Some of these have an O-ring seal that can pop out of it's groove if the mating connector is not there to hold it in place. I don't know how much movement is required for this to happen but when it does the QD can not be used until that seal is replaced or reinstalled in it's groove.

 

[jmc]

Rusty,
A word of caution on the flat face QD's. Some of these have an O-ring seal that can pop out of it's groove if the mating connector is not there to hold it in place. I don't know how much movement is required for this to happen but when it does the QD can not be used until that seal is replaced or reinstalled in it's groove.

Been there, ruined that, with my own depressurizer.

 

[Rustyiron]

Hey thanks for the heads up. Have you guy's figured some other way? Is this on the female side or both? It (so far) don't seem to bother the Parker QD's

 

[oldnslo]

Not sure how far they have to be pushed in to expose the seal. Best suggestion to be take one that you has no pressure on it and push the seat in slowly until you can see the seal. My experience was with Snap-tite and Foster, possibly Parker traps the seal a little differently to reduce this risk of the seal extruding.

I believe in my case it was typically the female half that caused the most problems.

 

[jmc]

Have you guy's figured some other way?

I think so.

My theory is that the on the flat faced coupler systems, compressing the moveable component on the tractor's flat faced coupling tries to displace hydraulic fluid trapped between the joystick controlled valve and that flat faced coupler. And since these FFC's seal so well, especially when new, there is no place for the fluid to flow, thus the resistance of that moveable FFC component.

To test this theory, I've held the joystick controlled valve in the open position while coupling an attachment and the coupling is quite easy. Problem is you are at the front of the tractor and the joystick is out of reach. A two person job or judicious use of a C-clamp or bunge cord to hold the valve in its open position.

Should have mentioned that the engine was off but the ignition switch was in the intermediate position.

 

[beetle bug 64]

I know an easy way to avoid pressure on hoses. On each tool equipped with hydraulic devises, you simply made a small sealed box. Above this one, you fit couplings. So, when you park your tool, you disconnect your 2 hoses from the tractor, and fit them onto the box. The oil will be drained inside the box realeasing the pressure all the time even if you don't use the tool for many days. When the box is full, drain it.

 

[Rustyiron]

Well the blue tool for the male ff coupler is all I need to use. I just put it on the attachment (male) & then on the machine (male). This has been working well and has not given the coupler any troubles. I might just be imagining it, but the male fitting seems pretty simple vs. the f/m fitting and the previous advice about possibly disturbing an o ring.

 

[Tony H]

I was thinking of buying extra couplers and just putting a 1/2" NOT ball valve on them Plug them into the Attachment as soon as I disconnect it. Then open the ball valve just before I go to reuse that attachment. That should keep Fluid from dripping and draining all the time it's not in use yet depressurize it to do the hookup.
These guys make a tool to push against the pressure but not available in the USA QUICK-ON

 

[aeblank]

I know this is an old thread, but I'm curious what people are doing these days.
I literally have to BEAT my fittings on after my loader sits for the winter. I de-pressurize everything before disconnecting, etc. too. It just settles, period.

I have a 2013 L3940. I'd love a tool for the fittings like the quick-on. Or maybe modifying a C-clamp. Or maybe a "X" fitting some 90s, and some fittings makes sense. Just create a manifold where all pressures can equalize. This assumes I can attach the connectors to it within a few minutes of disconnecting them. I almost suspect that I'd have a problem with that, but maybe not. What kind/size of fittings do I have?

Am I the only one with this problem these days? I don't see how I can be.......