Flushing Hot Water Tank

[grsthegreat]

Job security

 

[ponytug]

@ultrarunner do you brass nipples instead of dielectric isolator; if so, how long are they?

I am looking at replacing some rusting dielectric isolation nipples, and would welcome any tips before I drag out my 36" pipe wrenches....

All the best,

Peter

 

[ultrarunner]

Dielectric with dissimilar metals... primarily copper to steel.

I have a very old heater with a copper tank and left it copper to copper.

Galvanized to steel just plain union.

Most flex lines provide isolation due to the nylon bushing.

Strapping here is a big deal... first it was one and then two and heard recently three but have not verified.

Also securing venting with three sheet metal screws per joint... plus insulating exposed pipe which I do not think necessary in a heated space but required for inspection...

 

[Cougsfan]

I have a small 5 gallon hot water heater in my shop. After a year of use the hot water stank like a son of a gun. Checking into it, if you have a magnesium heating element and non-chlorinated well water that has even minute trace amounts of sulfur content, this is a fairly common issue (I have all three conditions). I was told that I just need to add a little hydrogen peroxide once in a while to the inlet in a while to clean the element and eliminate the odor. (it works). I am told I could change to an aluminum heating element to solve the problem, but one isn't available for this particular unit.
I have never flushed or cleaned the hot water heater in my house and have never had a problem with it.

 

[ponytug]

I have a small 5 gallon hot water heater in my shop. After a year of use the hot water stank like a son of a gun. Checking into it, if you have a magnesium heating element and non-chlorinated well water that has even minute trace amounts of sulfur content, this is a fairly common issue (I have all three conditions). I was told that I just need to add a little hydrogen peroxide once in a while to the inlet in a while to clean the element and eliminate the odor. (it works). I am told I could change to an aluminum heating element to solve the problem, but one isn't available for this particular unit.
I have never flushed or cleaned the hot water heater in my house and have never had a problem with it.

Just get the pipe thread dimensions (most are 3/4"NPT, which is not 3/4", table here), and length. If it were me, I would try an RV dealer, who often have small anode rods for RV heaters. You can cut it to length, as there will be a wire inside the magnesium that you can use for length.

If you get the dimensions and can't find one, PM me. I might have one the right size.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Richard]

If you have water in the tray, you either have a pipe leak or tank leak, with my bet on a leaking tank.

Unless your water quality is poor, you shouldn't need to drain your tank, unless you are going through anode rods quickly. (You check your anode rod every six months to a year, right? Almost nobody does, but you should, unless you have an electronic anode. Probably the most overlooked service check in the world of plumbing.)

All the best,

Peter

Regarding anode rods.... my understanding is if your heater has a (example) 5 year warranty.....and the next one has a 10 or 15 year warranty..... the longer warranty unit usually has TWO verses one anode rods in them.

So, if you are going to replace it/them.... you might want to be sure to know if you have one or two inside there.


Now.....here's a question for the masses..... (note that I have a lot of calcium buildup in mine)

I take my tank out every couple years and scoop as much calcium out as I can. I pulled the drain OFF and replaced it with a different shutoff/drain that has a through diameter of (something like) 1/2 or 5/8 inch verses the chokedown that the stock unit has.

So.... my point/question is.... if you get calcium buildup, wouldn't it work to pour (no idea) 1-gallon, 4 gallons??? of vinegar into the tank so the vinegar can help dissolve the calcium, then attach hose to drain bib and attempt to wash it out??

I've always wondered about this but never tried it.

 

[ultrarunner]

I use CLR in pails at work... never tried for domestic water heater but does make a difference...

 

[TractorGuy]

Last time I tried to drain mine it was clogged and blowing back in the hose didn't free it. That was probably 10 years ago and I haven't thought about it since.

I have replaced the lower element once and the sediment wasn't up to the top but at that time it would drain. I suspect my lower element is submerged in sediment by now.

 

[tomplum]

Mine will be drained when I toss it out. Maybe when I replace this one I'll give it better access to do so. No hot water when I went to wash all my bacon racks from smoking yesterday. Burned wire inside. It would have helped if they would have tightened the wires...

 

[Diggin It]

I've been here 25 years almost. WH was here before that, probably late 80s or so. I think I've drained it once or twice and found nothing of note, though I may not have known what to look for. No idea what these rods are or where they might be if mine has any. I don't use a lot of HW either because it runs the electric usage up so much.



I know this post just jinxed me .....