Food Plot Implements

[drivadesl]

Let me preface my question with the understanding that I'm new at all this so will tell you as much as I can.* I recently took delivery of a new NH TN-70 (will post pics when available) which I want to use for establishing deer food plots on some hunting property.* I've researched this somewhat, and have ordered some how to books on deer management, and starting food plots.* There are some small old fields which are beginning to turn back to woods, but majority of property is wooded. I plan to start with the fields, and build from there.* I realize I need to get a soil test also.* Main question is what equipment do I really need?* Seems working a plow, disc and cultipacker or harrow is pretty standard way to work the ground.* The fields are pretty rough, small saplings and overgrowth, and I'm sure some rocks though not sure to what degree. Area gets enough rain in spring, pretty dry in the summer.* I want to start small only a couple acres to start and get my feet wet.* What kind/size of plow do I need, size of disc?* Do I need a subsoiler to dig up roots and rocks before I plow? What about a sprayer, or fertilizer spreader?* I am very new to this, so I appreciate whatever input can be offered.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Since you're working relatively small fields, there's no need to get the absolute biggest equipment your tractor can handle. In fact, you'd probably get a better job with equipment that's a bit smaller than the maximum. Big equipment in small confined areas is awkward at best.

That tractor will EASILY handle a 3-bottom plow. 3X14" 's would be "enough" in my opinion, considering the amount of acreage you would be working. Subsoiling in rocky ground can be benificial OR it can open up a real can o' worms. I'm not sold on the idea of subsoiling unless you HAVE to. Your tractor would easily handle a 12' to 14' disc, but mobility on a wooded piece of land would be limited by that width. I'd go with 8' to 10' in a VERY heavy model of disc, one that would be capable of working as a stand-alone tillage tool, should you decide not to plow. That may be the best case if you're in really rocky country.

How and what are you going to PLANT? Corn? That needs a planter and corn needs fertilizer. So, possibly a planter and a fert. spreader. How about a crop like clover? Grass crops? You can broadcast them with the fertilizer spreader. So, a fertilizer spreader would be high on the list. A 2 or 4 row planter, depending on what crop you'll be wanting to put in. Again, with the acreage you're looking at, think small and mobile. You COULD use a big planter, but I'd stay with something relatively small for access to your fields in tight quarters. If you do row crops (ie corn) you'll need a cultivator for weed control OR go with a roundup ready seed and spray for weed control. With most of the normally accepted "food plot crops" you will be well served to run over the field with a cultipacker after seeding to firm the seedbed and press the seed in for good soil contact.

Also, there's a few very versatile no-till drills on the market that are capable of planting just about any crop. They can be used in tilled ground too. With a no-till system, you COULD do a spray burn down on the weeds/grass and no-till plant without all the plowing, discing, ect. Based on my experiences farming, THAT is the way I'd go personally. Less fuel, less time, less possibility of erosion, and just as good (if not BETTER) crops. No-till would require a decent sprayer and a planter. I'm only vaguely familiar with farming practices in your area. I would suggest contacting your local county AG extention service to get their take on no-tilling, and cropping in general. Accepted practice in my part of the country may be all wrong for conditions in yours. (I understand no-tilling isn't quite as popular or successful in more northern climates with shorter growing seasons and colder, wetter springtime soil conditions)


Hmmm. I've probably raised more questions that I've provided answers.

 

[drivadesl]

Thanks FWJ for taking the time to reply. I had the same feeling in terms of implement sizes thinking with the tight quarters, I would stay in the smaller to medium sizes. I didn't plan on planting corn or row crops, but was considering grasses, or clover. I've got to do some more research as to what will take well to the area (eastern catskills) and the ground I'm working. I'm not familiar with a "no-till drill" maybe someone can explain what it does and how it works. Also, if I'm reclaiming overgrown ground, and need a plow, what brands should I look for? King cutter is available close by, though it looks like they only make a 2 bottom. Is my tractor to big for that? Also, who makes a decent spray rig? How big a tank, and what kind of pump flow rate? I'm always looking used but haven't seen anything and would rather go new since I wouldn't know whats good or not otherwise. Good idea on calling the local AG office to get input, I'll try that tomorrow. Anyone else have any info to share?

 

[Mark-in-Mo]

My plan of "attack" would be first Brush hog shortly after that, spray round up wait two weeks apply fert, lime as needed then disk and Broadcast your seed then if possible roll.

Needs would be
1-Brush hog
2-sprayer (I like atv sprayers)
3-Disk
4-Broadcaster type spreader (wash thouroghly after using lime&fert)
5-Roller or cultipacker or drag harrow. I have used a piece of temporary fence pannel for this same purpose for many years with great results it also is great for breaking up the clods and smoothing the plots

I would not expect great results the first year mainly because of the woody debri and weed stalks decomposing

I have plowed and will never plow again! Way too rough! In the fall I use a tiller because the ground is to hard and dry. New foodplots that had saplings and trees in I would not use a tiller, too many roots to get twisted up in the tiller.

I am cheap, no fancy (expensive) equipment for me. I have planted corn by broadcasting then discing in, but I could not spray to controll weeds the atv would have smashed them down my boom sprayer is/was only 7foot wide as a result my corn grew 6ft tall but the ears looked like short cigars.

Food plots are alot of fun when the weather cooperates!!

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Thanks FWJ for taking the time to reply. I had the same feeling in terms of implement sizes thinking with the tight quarters, I would stay in the smaller to medium sizes. I didn't plan on planting corn or row crops, but was considering grasses, or clover. I've got to do some more research as to what will take well to the area (eastern catskills) and the ground I'm working. I'm not familiar with a "no-till drill" maybe someone can explain what it does and how it works. Also, if I'm reclaiming overgrown ground, and need a plow, what brands should I look for? King cutter is available close by, though it looks like they only make a 2 bottom. Is my tractor to big for that? Also, who makes a decent spray rig? How big a tank, and what kind of pump flow rate? I'm always looking used but haven't seen anything and would rather go new since I wouldn't know whats good or not otherwise. Good idea on calling the local AG office to get input, I'll try that tomorrow. Anyone else have any info to share?

Your tractor would devour a 2-bottom plow! It would handle 3 with ease, and MAYBE a 4 bottom depending on what sort of ground you have. I'd stay with 3-bottoms on that tractor. I'd suggest a Ford model 101 or simular, including Massey and Oliver. I've don't have much negative to say about John Deere EXCEPT for their plows. Never liked 'em myself. Good luck finding a GOOD new plow. They just don't exist with the exception of very expensive imports or the KK/Howse/ect plows that aren't quite what I'd call a quality plow.

No tilling is just what it implies. You spray the weeds and grass with (for instance) roundup to kill it, then a no till planter simply knives the seed into the dead sod. Minimal fuel usage, and with proper conditions, just as good, sometimes even BETTER crop yields. I'm finding that no tilling isn't nearly as popular in northern states. It's the biggest thing going in this part of the country. Most grain crops are grown notill. A great bit of forage grass's and such are no tilled here too.


Also, check with these fine folks on wildlife habitat info.

Quail Unlimited®—Leading the Charge to Restore and Perpetuate Wild Quail in North America


Click on habitat and go through all their programs. Very helpfull.

Also, check with these folks.

National Conservation Organization - Whitetails Unlimited » SHOP ONLINE

 

[wolc123]

The thing you need right away is a 6ft med or heavy duty brush hog. Next would be a 8 ft disk, then a cultipacker, broadcast spreader and a 3X14" plow. Use winter wheat or rye as your first crop (fall planted) and lime your soil until you get the right ph. The following late summer, get white clover in all your plots. Maintain the clover for 4-5 years with the brush hog. During that time, search for a 2-row corn planter with fertilizer attachments so you can take advantage of all the nitrogen your clover has stored with the best gun-season deer attracting crop there is - field corn. You will be missing the boat if you dont plant some corn after a few years of clover. Plant the corn around the 5th year where the grass in the clover is the thickest and keep around 75% of your acreage in clover each year. The corn will actually rejuvinate the clover plot the following year (providing you skip the atrazine and roundup - control weeds with a cultivator) by sucking out all the nitrogen and making it difficult for the grass to compete. You will also want a 2-row cultivator of course (or a 4-row if you choose to get a 4-row planter which is a lot less handy for food plots, but much easier to find cheap). Skip the sprayer, because I think herbicide use on foodplots is a bad idea, especially if you like the venison, and if you get all the equipment I suggested, you will not need any. Crop rotation as suggested, mowing, and cultivating will do a fine job on weed control.

 

[1586]

Do a few plots here. If you have overgrown vegetation a mower would work to get rid of saplings and grass. It would be best in late fall to do this and then plow it up for spring.

Personally I would not want a moldboard plow for CRP. They don't have the trash clearance for what you are doing. They also take a long time to cover a lot of ground. I would get a chisel plow of some type for primary tillage.

Secondary tillage would be a disk of whatever size you can pull. A 3pt disk of 8' or so would be a good start. An International Harvester disk is the best you can buy with any age on it. They make model 37 and later 370 in 12' or so sizes in pull type. That is the best disk money can buy in that size. JD disks work but they ridge in the center and the disk bearings are expensive. The IH disk used the same bearings and blades for years and are cheap. The wider the disk the better the finish within reason. You should size one to go 5mph or so. Any faster and they throw dirt and ridge.

You can buy a 2 or 4 row planter for plots. Guy here makes them out of old JD row unit. In fact I just bought a 2 row today for this. You should look at buying a 4 row 3pt mount like I have. You can cover a lot of ground with it and it's easy to use and transport.

A 3pt spreader would be next for use in broadcasting fertilizer and small seeds.

I wouldn't worry about the soil test. For corn get about 80 lbs of nitrogen out there or so. I use 150-200 in commercial production but the first year you should be fine with 80lbs. Remember fertilizer is VERY expensive right now. You can get a 20-10-10 in bags or go to a fert. dealer and get Urea which is 46-0-0. The first number is percent of nitrogen, second phosphorus, third potassium. Since you probably won't be removing much from the soil you should just concentrate on Nitrogen. If you wanted 92 lbs of nitrogen you would use 200 lbs. to the acre of Urea. 46X2=92 for example. Just have to work the Urea in to the soil after spreading or it can volatilize.

Good luck.

 

[Tritonman]

Disc, spreader, and a sprayer will get you started. If you want a planter just do a search for corn planter on ebay. A bunch will come up. What part of the country are you in and what is the normal forage, the deer eat. That will help determine what you want to plant to attract deer. Make sure you have a source of water near by or you can forget about deer hanging out.

 

[N80]

You're going to get more opinions on this than you would with religion or politics.

Here is what I have: 45hp 4wd tractor, 14" 2 bottom plow, 7' disk, access to a spreader.

All of my plots were cleared by me. They were scrub and planted pines. So, I cleared the 'trees' with the FEL, stumps and all. Then mow what I can (I have a light duty mower).

Then, I used my boxblade teeth to rip a little and then spread seed and fertilizer and then used a homemade chain harrow. This worked perfectly well for a couple of years.

Then I got the equipment listed above. I highly recommend plowing new ground. My 45hp tractor handles the 2 bottom plow with ease. Once the field is turned, then I disk it and this really makes a good seed bed for most things. My clay and rocks now looks a litttle bit like soil. What you plant is up to you.

I have not tried spraying anything. Too expensive for my blood.

Get soils testing done, or do it yourself. You can get kits from the feed&seed and it is very easy to do it yourself and much quicker.

Lime is a huge pain in the rear. It is corrosive, often doesn't spread well, its dusty, etc etc. I do it myself and deal with it, but if your fields are big enough (mine are not) then get a truck in to lime it for you.

And don't get too worked up about all the different opinions you will get, no matter how heated or strong they are. bottom line is that anything you do is better than nothing. Start slow. Try different things. Learn from your mistakes and your successes. Don't break the bank. And remember, no matter what you do, in the end, mother nature will decide how well your food plots do.

 

[offroadr]

All good answers here. I am a food plotter myself. I use my ATV as much as tractor for liming, fertilizing, seeding, spraying etc. It comes in real handy.

The best advice I can give above and beyond whats already been done is visit the QDMA forums. There is so much good advice your head will spin!

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