Food Plots for Deer

   / Food Plots for Deer #21  
The more expensive your landscaping, the better it attracts deer. :)

Around here in December, we can usually count on a few weeks of rainy days around fifty degrees, which means you could probably get some rye going. Up there in Lexington it's a bit colder, so you'll have to guess for yourself whether it's worth it.
 
   / Food Plots for Deer #22  
many thanks, you have a vast knowledge. I'm going to try to plant one 2 acre and several 1/2 acre plots in hilly areas. along the newly made drive (almost a mile)

I have 2 good friends that own land in Abingdon starting this process too.
Thanks again, Rob
 
   / Food Plots for Deer #23  
Guys,
We live in Florida (until I retire in 3 years) I bought 70 acres in Va. where I grew up. Mostly forest but has 2 acres flat and grassed at the bottom, a road cut thru the forest climbing up to a slightly crowned field of 3 acres at the top.
I can only get to Va. about 8 days every 3 months. I'd LIKE to plant things that will be "perennials" so I don't have to deal with the time or expense every year....other than maybe a bush hog and add fertilizer or lime.

The bottom field is grassed now and holds water well.....can be mowed, fertilized etc. It is low and a wet weather stream flows in winter and spring.

Along the road thru the hardwoods; needs to be perennial, with non-mowable 45 degree banks 4 feet high or dropping....part sun and shade. Water is rain only. (former forest) clay and dark woods dirt.

There are several 15'X30' flat areas for "plots" along the road thru the woods....can be seeded, fertilized and limed by hand......no mowing.....woods dirt, rain only.

On the top crest; field about 2 acres; this is where I plan to build some day. There is full sun, only rain fall and little water retention (it does get alot of DEW at night) I can bush hog, rake, fertilize, lime etc. Mainly yellow clay and granular, sandy, loose, small rock.... good perk tests

THREE distinctly different areas.....


Please read this over, suggest WHAT I should plant to prevent wash over my new road and what can I plant to attract deer to plots and fields.
ALSO...(always more, sorry) I have a bush hog, and a box scraper with the digger tines....
I'm thinking that I can mow then lower the diggers on the box scraper and pretend it's a poor man's cultivator. Should I invest (expensive) in a rotary tiller? I'm thinking that I can toss lime, fertilizer and seeds along the sides of the road banks by hand. Maybe I can pay Southern States to come out and lime/fertilize the bottom and top fields.....or can I RENT a spreader thing to go on the 3PT of my tractor? (what do they cost to buy?)
Anyway, I'll thank you already for the input. I'm looking to SEE happy deer and turkey all year and maybe eat ONE a year....after I say thanks for this bounty.:)
 
   / Food Plots for Deer #24  
To both prevent erosion and feed wildlife, alfalfa is about as good as it gets.

Something I forgot to mention. It's also an excellent attraction for turkey and quail.
 
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   / Food Plots for Deer #25  
You might talk to the Southern States boys in your area about what grows good in your area. Also, they can mix seeds with the lime or fertilizer as they spread for you, either topdressing or onto freshly worked land. Usually, you can rent their spreader buggy with their lime or fertilizer, with or without seeds, for a small fee, if your tractor can safely pull it. They may know of someone in the area who will work up the fields if you need that.

I don't know if you could rent a 3pt spreader at any rental spot or not, but you should be able to buy one from any local equipment dealer for less than $500.00. I gave $375 for mine several years ago, but prices have changed a good bit since then. Be sure to wash it good after each use, to prevent rust.

Your local extension agent can be a big help for info and soil tests, too.
 
   / Food Plots for Deer #26  
Guys,
We live in Florida (until I retire in 3 years) I bought 70 acres in Va. where I grew up. Mostly forest but has 2 acres flat and grassed at the bottom, a road cut thru the forest climbing up to a slightly crowned field of 3 acres at the top.
I can only get to Va. about 8 days every 3 months. I'd LIKE to plant things that will be "perennials" so I don't have to deal with the time or expense every year....other than maybe a bush hog and add fertilizer or lime.

The bottom field is grassed now and holds water well.....can be mowed, fertilized etc. It is low and a wet weather stream flows in winter and spring.

Along the road thru the hardwoods; needs to be perennial, with non-mowable 45 degree banks 4 feet high or dropping....part sun and shade. Water is rain only. (former forest) clay and dark woods dirt.

There are several 15'X30' flat areas for "plots" along the road thru the woods....can be seeded, fertilized and limed by hand......no mowing.....woods dirt, rain only.

On the top crest; field about 2 acres; this is where I plan to build some day. There is full sun, only rain fall and little water retention (it does get alot of DEW at night) I can bush hog, rake, fertilize, lime etc. Mainly yellow clay and granular, sandy, loose, small rock.... good perk tests

THREE distinctly different areas.....


Please read this over, suggest WHAT I should plant to prevent wash over my new road and what can I plant to attract deer to plots and fields.
ALSO...(always more, sorry) I have a bush hog, and a box scraper with the digger tines....
I'm thinking that I can mow then lower the diggers on the box scraper and pretend it's a poor man's cultivator. Should I invest (expensive) in a rotary tiller? I'm thinking that I can toss lime, fertilizer and seeds along the sides of the road banks by hand. Maybe I can pay Southern States to come out and lime/fertilize the bottom and top fields.....or can I RENT a spreader thing to go on the 3PT of my tractor? (what do they cost to buy?)
Anyway, I'll thank you already for the input. I'm looking to SEE happy deer and turkey all year and maybe eat ONE a year....after I say thanks for this bounty.:)

I planted perennial forage chickory about 4 years ago that is still producing. It has a long tap root like a dandelion. Very drought tolerant. I haven't had to do anything to it other than mow in the late summer and fertilize in the Fall. If I wanted a perfect stand I could spray for grasses but I haven't done that and it stays in good shape. You could probably get away with no maintenance at all but I'm a lawn guy and its just my nature to tend to it.
I plant an annual plot of forage oats,wheat, turnip right next to it and the deer will walk thru it to get to the chickory. They'll browse on the oat plot some but they really seem to go after the chickory. I like diversity so thats why I have different plots.I used Whitetail Institute Imperial Chic Magnet Forage Chickory. Go to the Cabela's .com website and you'll find it there. If you want deer forage in your non plot areas you can plant something like a oat/ladino clover mix. The oats come up fast, grow to about 2 feet and then die off. It will help with your erosion problem and it gives some cover for the clover to get established. If you just want to control the erosion plant a contractors mix. It has some annual ryegrass along with some other fescues that will cover fast. If its really steep you might want to lay down some Curlex which is a woven mat of fibers that lets the rain thru and the vegetation grows up thru it. It protects the soil from getting pounded and washed away by the rain. It breaks down over time. You should be able to find all that at a local Lowes, Home Depot, or a contractors store. I'd rent the equipment you need that you don't have. Good luck and good hunting. I always plant in the Fall here on the Eastern Shore of Maryland so you should be ok to do the same in Virginia. A soil test is essential in determining how much fert and lime you need.
 
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   / Food Plots for Deer #27  
You can use the box blad, but when i used mine the grass/sod thats there, if it has not been broken up in a couple years, will just rollup and make big mats that you will pull up then have to let out of the back of the box blade. It works, but will be a little rough if it has a thick sod or thathced root system, like i said you will roll clumps of grass dirt over that are several feet in diameter. If you do this once let the sun kill it then a week later do it again you may get a better result. I would rent a 3pt disk and do it that way first and then see if you can keep doing it with the box blade.. For seeds im not in that area, but oats and azorzia (spelling) rye do well as annuals. Alfalfa is the best for antler growth and protein but will need moisture to get established once established has a huge root system that is faily drought tolerant and is perrenial. On the woods road and banks that you dont want to errode i would put winter rye mix with fescue for a perrineal binder.
 
 

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