rdln
Veteran Member
Did I really say 75% less yield? I don't think it is that bad, more like 25% less but enough to make the difference between a farmer making a profit or breaking even over hundreds of acres.
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Food Plots
- Thread starter mtsman
- Start date
- Views: 3300
IllMarty / Robert in NY / all,
Thanks. Yes,...there is a lot of good advice here. I've been able to find Rodeo at the 41% concentrate (same as super concentrate Roundup) but the smallest container anyone will sell is 2.5 gallon at $270.00. When you look at cost per Quart it is slightly less than the similar strength Round-up, but I would only need 2 quarts and the other 8 would be taking up space in the shed. Based on TBN'ers advice and $ I chose to use Round-up and will wait for a dry spell to use it properly.
After a few calls and all of your advice I found out the local ag offices sell a $6.00 soil test kit for which I take soil aliquots, mix them, answer some specific questions about the sample area and send them off to Penn State. I did this and I am sending it to Penn State today. I bet I will have questions on the interpretation of the test results.
Yes, I could just throw some seeds out and tolerate a low yield but then I would be saying I could have tried this and done that, etc. I have tried some other very small patches of planting in this area using that method without much success. Finally, since I've found out clover is "fragile" when small and weeds will dominate it until year 2 I want to do it right the first time.
Thanks. Yes,...there is a lot of good advice here. I've been able to find Rodeo at the 41% concentrate (same as super concentrate Roundup) but the smallest container anyone will sell is 2.5 gallon at $270.00. When you look at cost per Quart it is slightly less than the similar strength Round-up, but I would only need 2 quarts and the other 8 would be taking up space in the shed. Based on TBN'ers advice and $ I chose to use Round-up and will wait for a dry spell to use it properly.
After a few calls and all of your advice I found out the local ag offices sell a $6.00 soil test kit for which I take soil aliquots, mix them, answer some specific questions about the sample area and send them off to Penn State. I did this and I am sending it to Penn State today. I bet I will have questions on the interpretation of the test results.
Yes, I could just throw some seeds out and tolerate a low yield but then I would be saying I could have tried this and done that, etc. I have tried some other very small patches of planting in this area using that method without much success. Finally, since I've found out clover is "fragile" when small and weeds will dominate it until year 2 I want to do it right the first time.
Steve,
I would like to buy concentrate round-up at $3.00 per quart.
What is the strength of that farmer concentrate solution?
I bought the "ultra strength" concentrate for under $40 per quart. (Without looking at the label or getting into chemistry I think it said 50% chemical and 50% diluent)
Is there something I am missing here?
I would like to buy concentrate round-up at $3.00 per quart.
What is the strength of that farmer concentrate solution?
I bought the "ultra strength" concentrate for under $40 per quart. (Without looking at the label or getting into chemistry I think it said 50% chemical and 50% diluent)
Is there something I am missing here?
rdln
Veteran Member
What is the coverage say on your container?
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
I found Round up at Lowes in a 2.5 gal container for $109. it is 41%. I know $109 doesn't sound cheap, but compare that to the per quart cost ($35-$40) and you save a bundle.
fractal
Gold Member
<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>
After a few calls and all of your advice I found out the local ag offices sell a $6.00 soil test kit for which I take soil aliquots, mix them, answer some specific questions about the sample area and send them off to Penn State. I did this and I am sending it to Penn State today. I bet I will have questions on the interpretation of the test results.
<hr></blockquote>
I hope you got more instructions than I did first time I did a soil test (wrong). Noone told me to wash real good (sterilize) both my bucket and my shovel, to take samples from multiple places in the field following a 'z' pattern, to dig a hole, then dig a "slice" off the edge of the hole and take a handful of the soil at the root depth and toss it in the bucket at each hole, to mix the soil in the bucket, then fill the sample bag with some of what you mixed up in the bucket. I didn't do too bad but wished I had read the instructions BEFORE I paid (a lot more than you did) for my garden test.
Also, you might be interested that labs sell different analysis packages. Your basic 10 dollar package will tell you npk. A 20 dollar package will tell you npk and traces. There are packages even more complete than that. You can check out http://ag.mdsharris.com/ (the folk who my local ag store uses) for a list of the products they offer to retailers or large commercial folk. I too don't fully understand all the stuff on the report but they guy at the store translated it all to me as "add 30 pounds of soil sulfur the the 1600 sq ft plot to drop the ph to 6.5" and proceeded to sell me a 50 pound bag of sulfur.
Good luck on your plot.
After a few calls and all of your advice I found out the local ag offices sell a $6.00 soil test kit for which I take soil aliquots, mix them, answer some specific questions about the sample area and send them off to Penn State. I did this and I am sending it to Penn State today. I bet I will have questions on the interpretation of the test results.
<hr></blockquote>
I hope you got more instructions than I did first time I did a soil test (wrong). Noone told me to wash real good (sterilize) both my bucket and my shovel, to take samples from multiple places in the field following a 'z' pattern, to dig a hole, then dig a "slice" off the edge of the hole and take a handful of the soil at the root depth and toss it in the bucket at each hole, to mix the soil in the bucket, then fill the sample bag with some of what you mixed up in the bucket. I didn't do too bad but wished I had read the instructions BEFORE I paid (a lot more than you did) for my garden test.
Also, you might be interested that labs sell different analysis packages. Your basic 10 dollar package will tell you npk. A 20 dollar package will tell you npk and traces. There are packages even more complete than that. You can check out http://ag.mdsharris.com/ (the folk who my local ag store uses) for a list of the products they offer to retailers or large commercial folk. I too don't fully understand all the stuff on the report but they guy at the store translated it all to me as "add 30 pounds of soil sulfur the the 1600 sq ft plot to drop the ph to 6.5" and proceeded to sell me a 50 pound bag of sulfur.
Good luck on your plot.
oombala
Bronze Member
ive used rodeo, very pricey. i called the company and he told me the surfactant was like a dish soap, made bubbles in the water at times so they took it out and uped the price. i had a quart of rodeo cost me $40.00 in an acre pond the guy said i coul dump it all in at once and not hurt my fish. i was only interested in killing weeds growing in my rip rap
oombala
Bronze Member
after you plant it, make a rabbit wire mesh cage open on top, flip it over andsecure it lightly maybe tent stake or rock. make it about 2-3 feet square. the purpose of it is, to compare how tall it is and thick w/the rest of the plot. you can then tell how much usage it id getting from the animals....... people at white tail clover told me that they have free videos of how to do it. or did have, look in the deer hunting magzines for there info. they also have a no till variety.
MODEERE
New member
I don't think you want to dump rodeo in a pond, it is to be sprayed on the surface of the weeds in and around water and will do a fine job. If you do not have a label go to www.cdms.com to get a copy. Rodeo and Roundup are sister chemicals with the Rodeo having a aquatic label. For home owners one of the best ways to buy Roundup is a the product Roundup Pro Dry it is alot cheaper and more user friendly than the liquid Roundup's, a case will have 30 packets of a dry Roundup with a use rate of 1packet per gallon of water, doesn't spill if knocked over and doesn't freeze
