ford 1210 clutch problems

[letsmowone]

Well im having troubles with the clutch on my little tractor, with the tractor in gear and running and the clutch pushed in if I rev up the engine the tractor tries to move. Im thinking the throw out bearing or the clutch is going bad. When I use the tractor the problem is intermittent so I called the Ford/New Holland dealer to see about repair and to my surprise they wont 2 thousand for a clutch job, I guess in the next week or so I will be tearing into my tractor to replace the clutch. Can anybody provide any helpful hints for this job. Thanks in advance....

 

[captaincrab55]

One can find a complete clutch package on Ebay. I just did one in my 1715 for under $150 and it included the alignment tool. Check you flywheel for glaze. I ended up taking mine to a machine shop for $40. An overhead beam with a trolley with a hoist will make it easy. Do you have a manual?

 

[letsmowone]

Hey captaincrab55 and thanks for the reply. I do not have a shop manual for my tractor, I do have mechanics background so im eager to tackle this because I have not split a tractor before. I have found the clutch on ebay, I will need a release bearing and pilot bearing also, right?

 

[letsmowone]

Well I found a shop/service manual in CD version on good ole ebay so I have it on the way. 3 ring binder version was close to $200, got the CD version for $10. Im no dummy I will just print the clutch repair section off. Hope to get started next week.

 

[letsmowone]

I finlly got a chance to pull the tractor in the shop and after about 45 mins had it in 2 pieces. The split was actually better than I had thought, what I found was a bad pilot bearing. The clutch looks good so im replacing the bearings, pilot and release and put it back together. Parts are suppose to be here tomorrow.

 

[sld]

While it's apart, I would replace the clutch as well.

 

[smokinmad]

Know this is an old post, but for anyone with a 1210 looking, I have a little advise.

When you split a 1210 Hydrostat, you need to check your Drive Rod. The end connected to the Hydrostat strips the rod out of the aluminum tie rod. Mine did just that, I JB WELDed the tie rod onto the rod. In the pic you can see the tie rod, in the hydrostat lever. Just make sure that you put it back on with the same number of turns, that it took to take it off with.

If it were me, I would remove the tie rod and lay it a 1x4, then lay a 1x4 piece on the long 1x4 on both ends. What your doing is making a JIG. screw the small boards to the long board, then you can lift the rod out. Unscrew the end that was fastened to the hydro(red pump), put your JB WELD in the end and screw it back on rod and place back in jig to make sure the length is correct. Look at second pic, notice that one tie rod points up and other points down. Make sure yours does the same and only jb weld the end, fastened to hydro. You might need to adjust it one day and it will be the end under the plate that you would adjust.
View attachment 508829 Hydro pump, the rod is fastened to the gold colored lever.

View attachment 508830 notice the direction of the ends, opposite each other.

Its not a bad job splitting.