Need to split Ford 1210 at the transmission case. Looking for advice

[pclose]

I have had the fwd/rev control rod detach inside the transmission case of a Ford 1210. I've searched forums to learn that it is common, but there's not much on fixing the problem. Has anyone split the Ford 1210 at the transmission case and are there any pitfalls to avoid? manuals I have only have directions to split for clutch replacement. I need mine to look like @smokinmad picture:

 

[smokinmad2]

Hey P
Got your request for help....unfortunately all the photos I had were on a phone I lost..
Put tractor on a concrete slab, put a bottle jack under the peephole plate and floor jack under the engine from the front.
Pic shows the bolts to remove to split and other is the peephole plate...you can remove it before splitting....
Battery mount plate has to come out, wires need unhooked.....it's easier than it sounds...

 

[TractorTech]

Recommend putting a wedge between the front axle and engine rail on each side so the front doesn't flop to the side.
Easy split otherwise

 

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thanks for the replies. Very helpful @smokinmad! Made progress today and have everything undone, tractor well supported, and the bolts out between the sections I need to separate. I've only been able to get about a 1/8' gap of separation by tapping a screwdriver around the seam on both sides with a hammer. It seems stuck. How much force is usually needed to separate sections? Should it just roll apart, or does it take pry bars?

 

[pclose]

It helps some time to step away and regroup. I realized I hadnt unscrewed the hydraulic hose nipple underneath the transmission case. Helps to reread the manual. Separates nice when it's ready. Is J.B. Weld the way to go from this point to reattach? Is it enough, or is there a belt and suspenders approach? Mice made a mess in there! Cleanup in process.

 

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I screwed up and I'm not sure when or where, but I need help. I was able to separate the tractor and make repairs to the control rod. I used JB to hold the ball joint to the rod and drilled and pinned it.

 

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I was able to reattach the spring in the transmission case with string, wire, and alternating vice grips, little by little, as I moved the case closer which worked well.

 

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everything looked liked it was lining up well and I as able to rejoin the sections of the tractor.

 

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I have everything back together and the engine wont crank when I turn the key. It's not an electrical problem or a starter issue. It is bound up. Locked. Loud click and seems seized. What did I do wrong? What do I need to do to fix it. I know I'll need to split again, but not sure what I can do different? Please chime in with advice

 

[sandman2234]

I would pull the starter and check it before I split it again.
David from jax

 

[pclose]

Thanks David. I'm confident that the starter is fine, but I will make sure. From reading other online info I think it was too difficult to bolt back together and something is not aligned. If the starter is ok, does anyone know what will be damaged when I resplit the tractor? Have I traded my connecting rod problem for a clutch replacement project?

 

[sandman2234]

pclose,
Where are you located? I am on the westside of Jacksonville, Florida and have a 1210. I haven't had to do much work to it, or the previous 1100 as they have been faithful servants. Nowadays the 1210 is lucky to get started once every couple of months.
I would have probably pulled the starter just to get the nose out of the way and allow another line of sight for seeing what I was doing while splitting the tractor. If you pull the starter now, and it works fine, then you will reduce the number of things causing it before splitting it again.
David from jax

 

[pclose]

I'm in CT. It's been really cold work lol! Sounds like a plan. Sadly, I think the starter is fine, but I'll look. A buddy lent me a camera scope that links to a phone. I should be able to see what's going on in there before taking too much apart. I'm pretty sure I'll be splitting again though. I think I probably smashed the clutch dome and whatever else cranking it back together. The only way I was able to get the loader into my garage when it initially broke was by using the bucket curl to inchworm my way inside. I was able to reconnect the control rod with the loader still on. That's not going to work to get at the clutch. I'll need to get the loader and frame off manually to do it. That should be fun

 

[sandman2234]

I'm in CT. It's been really cold work lol! Sounds like a plan. Sadly, I think the starter is fine, but I'll look. A buddy lent me a camera scope that links to a phone. I should be able to see what's going on in there before taking too much apart. I'm pretty sure I'll be splitting again though. I think I probably smashed the clutch dome and whatever else cranking it back together. The only way I was able to get the loader into my garage when it initially broke was by using the bucket curl to inchworm my way inside. I was able to reconnect the control rod with the loader still on. That's not going to work to get at the clutch. I'll need to get the loader and frame off manually to do it. That should be fun

It does sound like fun in that cold! Must be nice to have a loader on a 1210. The capacity of it probably isn't much, but the convience of it would be priceless!
David from jax

 

[pclose]

fixed. I found the two manuals I had would have been ok if my tractor was 100% functioning and I was doing maintenance to prevent a failure. I needed a manual that assumes you're starting out with a failed tractor. My post above where I say "everything looked like it was lining up well" was false. It wasn't at all. I took it all apart again and when I reattached the sections I used a wooden wedge to hold the clutch in the engaged position to keep the shaft aligned with the opening. I also did the repair with the loader on and moved the back away from the front when I separated it. The 2nd time around was (so much!) easier because I knew more about what I was doing. I supported the loader arms with boards and dropped the loader frame off the bottom to get more space and better access to the hydraulic connections. Thanks for the support!