Ford 1700 crankshaft pulley position alignment procedure

[Antique Equipment Tester]

My first post y'all, hopefully I manage to do it correctly.

I've got a Ford 1700 with a 2 cylinder diesel, firing order 2-1, with 2 marks on the pulley, the first for injection timing, the second for TDC (information all gleaned from this site, thanks for that).

While running the FEL I stripped the splines out of this pulley completely, as it drives the hydraulic pump. My first observation was a strange vibration, the second was screaming when I tried to raise the loader to dump it. After much research I realized that this is also a balance pulley for the crankshaft and is twice as thick on half of it, hence the vibration fully explained. I was surprised to learn this 2 cylinder runs 180 degrees opposite of each other and I wouldn't just install the heavy end opposite of TDC for the 2 cylinders, but they're opposed. I was more surprised to learn there is no obvious indexing on the crankshaft or pulley that I can tell, or in the splines. My pulley is all wallowed out, and the new salvage one ($289 off a popular online auction site) arrives in 2 days so I'll be able to inspect it more closely for index markings. So all I can tell thus far is its 38 splines with no keying, so about 10 degrees/spline.

As I need this tractor back in service immediately to finish bed lifting 1,600 ft. of fall crops, I'm looking to know exactly how to get this back together right the first time when the part arrives. Which is why I couldn't spend days waiting on salvage yards to return my calls vs. one boxed up and ready to ship immediately.

I believe the correct way to reinstall the replacement will be to find TDC of the #1 cylinder/front most cylinder, not #2 based on firing order, and align the second timing mark on the pulley to this position. I'll probably try to peek through oil fill at the valves to find #1 TDC between the compression/power stroke, being +/- 10 degrees/spline should make alignment this way sufficient. Or I'll have to pull the valve cover to see better, but hopefully not have to disassemble any further than that.

Does anyone have any better ideas, methods, or knowledge on how to do this? Maybe something easier with the injector to align to the first mark? Getting it wrong may lead to a small vibration, or fatigue stress the crankshaft eventually, and will definitely make future injector service extremely painful.

Thanks, AET (Antique Equipment Tester)

All testing is performed until failure, whereupon
welding is applied liberally and testing resumed.

 

[mike48130]

I had a similar issue, but the pulley does not run the hydraulic pump. It runs the alternator and water pump. They hydraulic pump is ran off the gears inside the front engine cover.

The front of the crankshaft should have a dot, or punch mark. There is a similar mark on the pulley. It has been years since I did mine, but that is how I remember it. I can check my manuals.

 

[mike48130]

From the I & T manual. If you don't have the manual, I suggest you get it. They are a condensed version of the service manual. You can usually get them at Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet stores. Cheap.

 

[Antique Equipment Tester]

Thanks Mike. I figured there had to be something. My pulley is ground out so there's nothing to see there, hopefully new one is obvious. I inspected the end of the crankshaft and couldn't see anything. Maybe some steel wool/light sanding/pencil rubbing with a piece of paper will reveal something there. Unfortunately this end of the shaft did the material removal on the pulley, so hopefully its much harder and still visible. Just went to check for it, but now the loader is settled too low and I can't get the hood open enough. Grrr.. May have to wait until later tonight, but I'll be checking for that crank mark ASAP.

The hydraulic pump I was referring to was the FEL, not the 3 point/power steering. Bolts to crank pulley and couples to the pump with a #40 double roller chain, one gear bolted to engine, second to pump, the chain allows for slight misalignment of the two.

 

[mike48130]

The crank mounted hydraulic pump was an option for a higher flow pump, and is not standard. Usually the loader is ran off the PTO pump. There is a block that goes in between the pressure relief plate on the RHS under the seat to tie into it. If you have problems with the front pump, you can always tie into the tractor pump and remove the front pump. I had a 1700 and 1600 with loader, and the tractor PTO pump ran the loader just fine.

 

[Antique Equipment Tester]

Again, thanks Mike. My power steering is tied into that block. And it interferes with the differential lock, been wanting to see if I could replumb that a little. When pulling rows steering is really hard when lifting implements for the U turns, I'd hate to think what the loader would do to my power steering response. Turning and bucketing is probably more minimal than raising an implement and flipping a U turn. This optional pump is probably too big, I can stall the engine when dumping the bucket it drives it so fast. It's probably the sole contributing factor to stripping the crank pulley splines out.

I was able to get a hand in there with some steel wool - got a lot of high carbon caked iron powder out, I guess from the pulley casting debris. And am now able to feel a divot! Thank goodness, I was really worried about how to index that 38 spline back on quickly and properly. Again, thanks!

 

[mike48130]

770 Loader Manual. Page 16 of the manual item #17 is the block.

 

[mike48130]

There should be a priority valve for the steering. It gives the steering oil priority over the other functions when using them all at the same time. Your other functions may slow down, but seems like a simpler setup to eliminate the front pump. With only 23hp, I don't think you would want to spend any HP on a second pump. Not to mention a $289 pulley. But I guess it lasted 35 years, so maybe not too bad.

Good luck.

 

[Antique Equipment Tester]

Mike - So the new pulley is developing the old problem, there must be too much load on that optional front PTO pump and/or a slight misalignment causing the crank splines to wallow out the replacement pulley. I'd like to pursue your suggestion of removing it and utilizing the tractor's built in pump. Do you know where the loader inlet/outlet is plumbed into your system?

I have, currently, the separate dedicated pump for the FEL; 2 hoses, easy peasy supply/return. And the tractor pump has the aux hydraulic adapter block, RHS under seat, which in the original 770 drawings shows the FEL being plumbed into the two lines provided there. However, with the power steering option, there is a second block which I believe as you say is some kind of priority or flow control for power steering. This occupies my adapter block supply/return and it has 3 ports, one marked inlet, another that returns to the adapter block, and the 3rd that travels to the spool valve on the power steering ram. The power steering has its own dedicated return to the RHS of the transmission housing.

Should the FEL inlet be off the RHS adapter block and the outlet of FEL continue to the power steering priority block inlet? Or should I tap the FEL inbetween the return line from the priority block and the transmission? Couldn't find any drawings of this configuration so hoping you've got the FEL and power steering options on your 1700 and know how this should be plumbed, before I start having hydraulic hoses made. Thanks, Doug

 

[mike48130]

A picture might help me see what you are looking at. There is a pressure relief valve that normally goes onto the outside of the auxiliary block. Not sure if you have the loader auxiliary block but the steering priority valve. I don't know if you can stack them both, but probably can, never had a 1700 with P/S. See if these help, and send a pic.

See this link as well.

Ford 1700 Loader Control Adapter -- Ford -- Page 1

New Holland (77-SERIES) - FORD LOADER (1/79-12/83) Parts Diagrams

It is possible your crank is worn or the new pulley is worn. Remove the front crank pulley bolt and washer and make sure the crank is not sticking out past the pulley hub. The crank end should be recessed so the pulley is tight to the crank, and not wobbling on the splines. If the crank is too long, then you will tighten the washer to the crank end, and not the pulley to the crank.