Ford 1700 crankshaft pulley position alignment procedure

mike48130 · Jul 9, 2019

See this diagram for the crank. You can see the larger boss on the crank for the timing gear that the pulley needs to be tight against. If your other pulley wobbled for a long time, it is possible it wore that boss on the crank, (or the oil slinger) and the pulley is sitting too far back. If that is the case, you need to make a shim washer to fit in there (or possible replace the slinger) so the pulley is properly installed. This would be the case with or without the front hydraulic pump. It ran for 35 years like that, so unless something is wrong with the pump that is adding a side load, then you should be able to keep running like that.

New Holland (17) - 2 CYL COMPACT TRACTOR (1/79-12/82) Parts Diagrams

Antique Equipment Tester · Jul 9, 2019

Here's 3 pics, far right one shows the overall, with the adapter block on transmission housing like what is seen in all the FEL manuals, and the power steering priority valve which I haven't seen this style anywhere, connected with 2 hoses. The other is a closeup of each. Note that the priority valve (center pic) is not plumbed to anything, just bolted in that location obstructing easy access to my differential lock. The top and right hoses go to the adapter block at transmission, the left hose goes to the power steering spool which is a hydraulic ram mounted on the side. I'll go get a pic of that now as well.

Antique Equipment Tester · Jul 9, 2019

Here's a pic of the business end of the power steering option I have. Very simple, pitman pushes spool valve mounted on hydraulic cylinder. If no hydraulics, you're back to armstrong power steering and dragging that hydraulic cylinder to boot. With pressure, obviously you're steering with your pinky. 2 hoses, one returns to atmosphere/transmission housing. The other comes off that priority valve in previous post.

As for installing the replacement crank pulley, everything tightened up as expected. This one drives the shaft seen in those supplements you sent me, but instead of a magnetic clutch, that's the pump itself - direct drive if you will. After a few minutes of use checked everything, it was good. Once I did some heavy loader work, moving a couple dozen loads of dirt, shut it down for the day and rechecked it (its what I do) and discovered the crank pulley was chucking slightly. I suspect the crankshaft is fine, as it tightened up once, but the splines in the pulley are grinding out again, which is what happened last time.

mike48130 · Jul 9, 2019

That front block looks like a pressure relief for the steering. They usually run a lower PSI. It looks like maybe an aftermarket or dealer power steering system? Not sure what you can do. You could pipe it so it goes to the loader first, then to the PS block, but you will loose PS when using the loader. That is what a priority valve does, makes the steering a priority, but I don't think you have that, or can't verify since that block probably doesn't have a part number on it.

Maybe just figure out your pulley issue and be done.

mike48130 · Jul 9, 2019

I don't know how to tell if that is just a relief or a priority valve. You could swap it with one like this.

1.5/3 GPM Prince Priority Flow Divider w/Relief | Divider Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Are there more than one "cap" on that front block? I think if it is a priority valve, it has to have 2. One for the relief, and one for the shuttle valve. If it is just a relief, it will have just one.

Antique Equipment Tester · Jul 9, 2019

I did discover, through looking at the material you just sent and feeling around on what I've got, a large bolt head on the bottom of that block. I'm 90% certain it is a priority valve and that's the spring relief/diverter pressure control in the other drawings of those other styles. I think I could add the FEL at the high pressure return side of that priority valve, and after reading how the ones work that you sent, it should maintain steering priority at low RPM's, and provide surplus at higher RPM's to run both, which is what I'd be doing if running the FEL a lot.

In hindsight, my troubles may have started after the clutch replacement, which necessitated removal of the FEL and disconnecting the hydraulic pump. Maybe I've got something there that's just not lining up correctly. Maybe need to loosen up the mounting brackets and see if it finds a new happy place and give it a second chance. I still like your idea though. Reading the raise/lower specs of the FEL in the 770 manual, I have similar times now, so this optional pump isn't much more GPM than the built in, and picking up a couple of HP would be nice, as well as removing extra stuff that can break and leave me down and out. Back to the drawing board, let me take that front shaft off again (bugger and a half, has a double #40 roller chain coupling and that master link is... difficult) and see what's happening. Pretty sure the splines are grinding out and the pulley is sliding back on the crankshaft. Let the testing continue!