Ford 1700 - electrical

[jaxs]

Thanks for your replies. Yes, it took me that much money to figure out it was not just bad starters. I've had a pro look at it, and he concluded like me it was a bad starter. I have tested my current starter with jumpers after removing it from the tractor, and there was no sound or motion. There was a spark at the + battery terminal when I disconnected the jumper, so I'm guessing the solanoid is shorted out(?). I've checked all wiring, and replaced battery, battery cable & key switch. Clutch safety switch quit, and I wired around it. More money spent. I have never tried fixing the starter myself, but have taken it into a shop. @jaxs , if the bendix got locked, could that somehow cause a higher than rated current in the solanoid?

Here's another lead - the starter seems very rusty on the inside, as is the ring gear. Tractor has always been stored in a shed, and not used all that much. Condensation?

Another wierdness with this tractor is that the oil seems very thin, like the 10W30 I put into it got mixed with a lighter weight oil or transmission fluid. Does not appear to be mixed with radiator fluid, as there is no separation after the tractor has been sitting. The oil pressure light comes on soon after it starts - but this could be a bad pressure sensor.

I don't intend to discourage diy but the interweb hasn't replaced apprenticing with an experienced mechanic. Every day newbies come here looking for answers that can only be determined with eyes and hands on. When you said above "There was a spark at the + battery terminal when I disconnected the jumper, so I'm guessing the solanoid is shorted out(?)." that clearly tell's me you haven't paid your dues with taking baby steps before wading in blind. IF you had cables properly connected,power wouldn't pass through solenoid on the way to starter. PLUS,your obsrvation of possibly shorted solenoid farthar demonstarte's you haven't taken time to fimilarize yourself with how and what solenoid actually does nor do you understand short circuit. Take my word,if jumper cables are connected to a short fire and smoke will let you know the instant last clamp is connected.
To answer your question '' if the bendix got locked, could that somehow cause a higher than rated current in the solanoid? " yes it would. More important there could be enough current to burn starter out if repeat attempts are made to start engine.
As for rust in starter and ring gear. That would only be something to worry about if the cooling system lose's coolant. The coolant might leak at freeze plugs on rear of engine.
There's your answers but I'm not sure how much good they will do you until you know how system operates.
You said a professional diagnoised it as bad starter then a pro rebuilt starter(s). Where did these people go after they failed to help situation?

 

[Dave M7040]

Post some photos of the starter, solenoid and attached cables.

Also photo of the top of your battery.

Something is not installed correctly.

Thinned engine oil.......... where does hydraulic system get its fluid. If it is from the transmission fluid, a leaking hydraulic pump can allow transmission fluid into the engine crankcase.

Dave M7040

 

[neverfailyou]

Relating what I went through…. Checking your positive and negative cables, terminals and connections from battery to tractor. 20+ year parts can be difficult to isolate.

My tractor wouldn’t crank until I jumped it with another vehicle but battery, starter and solenoid all checked good at auto parts store. Using a wire lead to bypass starter solenoid didn’t work either. Replaced ground wire at battery (braided lead from battery terminal to chassis).
Tractor started just fine for several weeks and then no cranking again. Ended up replacing positive cable from battery terminal to starter solenoid. Tractor has since been starting fine again for two weeks now. Both cables “looked” ok. We’ll see if problem come back.

 

[CoyPatton]

Relating what I went through…. Checking your positive and negative cables, terminals and connections from battery to tractor. 20+ year parts can be difficult to isolate.

My tractor wouldn’t crank until I jumped it with another vehicle but battery, starter and solenoid all checked good at auto parts store. Using a wire lead to bypass starter solenoid didn’t work either. Replaced ground wire at battery (braided lead from battery terminal to chassis).
Tractor started just fine for several weeks and then no cranking again. Ended up replacing positive cable from battery terminal to starter solenoid. Tractor has since been starting fine again for two weeks now. Both cables “looked” ok. We’ll see if problem come back.

While not common, I would also say it is not uncommon for corrosion to occur under the insulation of battery cables. Braided exposed cables are much more prone to this corrosion.
If you have a multimeter that will read DC amps it can be checked with one of these. However, after having done the basics—check and clean all battery cable connections 4 total and having the battery load tested (most parts stores can do this), then by-pass the battery cables as a test if you do not have the above testing meter. A simple tool to by-pass the battery cables is a set of heavy duty booster cables. Jump from battery negative to frame and battery positive to starter connection.
Personally, I would by-pass both initially. If tractor starts, remove one by-pass and try starting again. If both battery cables are insulated and one shows unable to carry needed amps to start, personally, I would replace both. Note here—older aluminum wire cables are more likely to have corrosion under insulation. Newer aluminum is less so but it can happen even with copper wire.