ford 1700 hydraulics

   / ford 1700 hydraulics #11  
Few more pics;
 

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   / ford 1700 hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thank you JC

I was in the process of pulling the filter again just to make sure it isn't clogged. I doubt it is. The tractor has only run a total of probably 15 min since we cleaned it, and we washed the housing out with diesel fuel before we reinstalled the filter and put in new oil. I'll go ahead and back off on the relief valve tension, then go look for a gauge.
 
   / ford 1700 hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I backed off the adjustment screw on the relief valve, first one full turn then another half a turn. At a turn and a half the tension quit. Still no movement of the arms at any rpm.
 
   / ford 1700 hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Good news, kinda...

Got back with the gauge and installed it. Cranked it up to see if it would register anything, and it didn't. Then I went to pull the filter and check it to make sure it wasn't clogged again. When i went to take out the banjo bolt, it wasn't very tight. Neither were the 4 bolts around the filter. I pulled the filter and it was clean. Put it all back together and tightened everything up. Cranked it back up and everything seems to work like it should. The first few cycles were squishy. I could stand on the arms and they would go down, but spring back up. After I got the air out, they wouldn't budge. Had my son (230#) stand on the arms and it would go up and down without a hiccup. Worked at idle, worked at 2500 and everything seems right. We only mow with this tractor and the bush hog is still at brothers house. I'll check it out with the mower tomorrow. I think it might have been sucking air. The bolts really didn't seem that loose, but they sure weren't tight.

I say kinda because the gauge still doesn't move at all. No matter what I do, it stays bottomed out? If i hadn't put a gauge on it i wouldn't know anything. Any ideas there?
 
   / ford 1700 hydraulics #15  
ok. if you tightening the spring stiffness all the way then the pump will be deadheading and it then should lift the poppet valve to relief the pressures so the pump will not be destroyed. If deadheading does not lift the poppet than I think pump seal are having problem. in mine , the seals were but input shaft seal was sucking air in. Just read your post #8. I own my 1700 for about 15 years. the very first time I cleaned the screen, I opened up the drain at the bottom of diffy and nothing came out, then I made a hook thingy with a stiff wire, shoved it in the whole and there it cam a rat looking glob. further when I opened the screen I made a collection jar and shop vacuumed the bottom of the diffy and sucked out about a gallon of thick pudding like crap. You might have a situation like that too. Pump overhaul is pretty easy , My overhaul kit then about $50 and I hope still available out in the aftermarket. actually I wished I bought a spare pump seal kit and lift cylinder . I wished there was a spot you could have checked the pressure on the discharge side of the before it hit the relief. I also suggest you inspect the suction pipe from banjo at the screen to inlet banjo of the pump. few pic , below on vacuum system. The hole on the handle is to keep the bucket from collapsing. plug the hole by your finger and it suck and let go it releases.
 

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   / ford 1700 hydraulics #16  
after your post # 8, I responded and did not get to see your post #9. That's great, You are gaining on it. I did suggest checking the banjo, it was sucking air. Now if it lift anything, your son is heavy enough.Even if with the tractor off and weight hanging on the back it causes static pressure in the line and the gauge must, I mean must register something. why don't you take the gauge off and run the tractor with the bucket next to the hole to catch the oil. You must have oil coming out since it 3 point is working. Put some air pressure in the gauge to see if if it working. you might have a bad gauge.

JC,
 
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   / ford 1700 hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#17  
That's what I've been thinking. Bad or clogged gauge. I'll check on that tomorrow. Also going to load it up and get the bush hog and try it out.

A little more back story and th reason it was loose.

The last time my brother had removed the filter, the aluminum threads pulled from the filter. A new filter is $159. Before I tried to weld up the hole and redrill and retap (my aluminum welding is so so) I decided to try a lock tite thread repair epoxy. Seems to be working really well, but brother was skittish of torquing the bolts down like they should be.

Sometimes the simplest things are easily overlooked.

I sure do appreciate all your help.
 
   / ford 1700 hydraulics #18  
That's what I've been thinking. Bad or clogged gauge. I'll check on that tomorrow. Also going to load it up and get the bush hog and try it out.

A little more back story and th reason it was loose.

The last time my brother had removed the filter, the aluminum threads pulled from the filter. A new filter is $159. Before I tried to weld up the hole and redrill and retap (my aluminum welding is so so) I decided to try a lock tite thread repair epoxy. Seems to be working really well, but brother was skittish of torquing the bolts down like they should be.

Sometimes the simplest things are easily overlooked.

I sure do appreciate all your help.

Great, that's why it is always best to break down the problem to smaller bits to not miss the lil details. Glad it was not the pump. Gear pump can take some abuse but not much. Overhaul kit might be difficult to get now but pump replacement as best will be a used one perhaps worse shape than yours and they sure do want a pretty penny for it too. Tractor without 3 point lift is kind of useless too. The screen is of a good quality and mine is 40 years old and till looks good after I clean it. My memory recollect that it was made out of stainless steel. Report back with the gauge, the bourdon tube might have locked up, give it some air pressure and tap the side gently with a rubber mallet to see if comes back to life.
 
   / ford 1700 hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Pretty sure it's a bad gauge. Hooked up the bush hog and everything works just like it should. The gauge doesn't read anything at all. There's no gunk in it stopping it up. Couldn't find my blower to put air to it. Don't think it would have mattered. My compressor tops out @ 125 bottomed out on the gauge is around 250.
 
   / ford 1700 hydraulics #20  
Pretty sure it's a bad gauge. Hooked up the bush hog and everything works just like it should. The gauge doesn't read anything at all. There's no gunk in it stopping it up. Couldn't find my blower to put air to it. Don't think it would have mattered. My compressor tops out @ 125 bottomed out on the gauge is around 250.

awsome, no matter what gauge says or does not your 3 point is working. Glad it was not anything more serious and costly. I picked up my oil filled gauge up to 3000 psi from Northen under $20. Need to give a bit of TLC to the hydrauic from time to time so pump would not get damaged.

JC,
 

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