Hello, I have a Ford 1710 and I just finished rebuilding the engine. The tractor is back together and it won’t move while in neutral and I can’t shift all the gears. This is the first time I’ve done anything like this and I’m sure I missed something and I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help!
Ford 1710 won’t move in neutral
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
"It won't move while in neutral"
I assume that means it won't roll, as in you can't push it? You can cycle through the gears without the clutch. With the engine running? Maybe you can explain your circumstances a little better. Some of us out here are accustomed to certain terminology and can easily get lost.
You rebuilt the engine, so it was out of frame and then installed back after the work was done, right? The transmission was working fine before all this? If that's the case then the first suspect would be with the clutch and/or how the clutch was assembled onto the flywheel and the engine package installed onto the clutch housing. The engine is running now? No problems there?
I assume that means it won't roll, as in you can't push it? You can cycle through the gears without the clutch. With the engine running? Maybe you can explain your circumstances a little better. Some of us out here are accustomed to certain terminology and can easily get lost.
You rebuilt the engine, so it was out of frame and then installed back after the work was done, right? The transmission was working fine before all this? If that's the case then the first suspect would be with the clutch and/or how the clutch was assembled onto the flywheel and the engine package installed onto the clutch housing. The engine is running now? No problems there?
Hello Harry and thanks for the reply. Yes, I can’t push it. I haven’t cranked it yet (waiting on some filters). Everything as for the transmission/clutch worked fine before I split the tractor. I noticed that while I had it split, I couldn’t get the back half to roll, but I assumed it was because the clutch wasn’t on. When I installed the clutch and pressure plate, everything was aligned and the engine went back on the frame without much of a fight. Sorry if my terminology is off. This is my first foray into something like this.
3 Horse Ranch
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2017
- Messages
- 1,193
- Location
- Tonasket, WA
- Tractor
- NH B50H Cab, Ford 1715, Poulan Pro 46
I have a Ford 1715, sort of the economy version of the 1710 I believe. When I bought it, the previous owner had just put a new clutch in it. I drove it for 20 minutes and it became stuck in second. I didn't have the tools to fix it so I took it to the shop. Apparently when they split the tractor they had not tightened the hardware for the shift linkage. I am thinking that your problem is in that same neighborhood. You may have accidentally gotten the transmission engaged in two gears simultaneously. You will undoubtedly be splitting the tractor again to fix it.
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
Well if it wouldn't roll with the engine off then that pretty much rules out the clutch or its installation. This is with both speed and range transmissions in neutral, right? Assuming the rear half was under cover while while engine work was in progress? This condition was not there before the engine was removed?
Is this a standard two shift lever transmission or a column shift? I believe the two lever version is straight cut sliding gear type, and the column shift has synchros. Sliding gear transmissions often need a little rotation in the shafts in order to shift in and out of all gears. If it's all back together, have you tried shifting with the clutch pedal fully depressed?
How long did the rebuild process take? A few weeks? A few months? A year and a half? Have you considered the brakes? Maybe the brakes (or at least one) could be rusted stuck on and causing a problem? Are the pedals hooked up and functioning as they should?
Is this a standard two shift lever transmission or a column shift? I believe the two lever version is straight cut sliding gear type, and the column shift has synchros. Sliding gear transmissions often need a little rotation in the shafts in order to shift in and out of all gears. If it's all back together, have you tried shifting with the clutch pedal fully depressed?
How long did the rebuild process take? A few weeks? A few months? A year and a half? Have you considered the brakes? Maybe the brakes (or at least one) could be rusted stuck on and causing a problem? Are the pedals hooked up and functioning as they should?
It has the two shifters and I did have the brakes locked when I started the teardown. It’s taken me a few months to find parts and get everything machined, but everything was kept in my shop. I haven’t considered the brakes, but that would make sense.
I just tried to fire up the engine. I bled the fuel system, but it’s not firing up. There’s black smoke from the exhaust and I feel the head getting warm around the glown plugs. It acts like it wants to fire up, but no dice. I made sure all the timing marks lined up when assembling. Any suggestions on what it could be?
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
I guess there are a few possibilities. Lots of new parts, time lapsed during assembly to the point of start up. Dry cylinders and rings due to that time lapse. friction of new parts (pistons, rings, cylinder walls) starter and battery not quite 100% so cranking speed is down a little. New engine oil is 10W30 not 15 40, right? Those engines don't like 15 40.
Black smoke while cranking is a bit suspicious. I would expect grey or dark grey but not black, so I'm not sure what that means. Maybe pop the intake hose off the manifold and try again. I would NOT try starting fluid, that's asking for trouble.
Once you get past the "no rolling" issue you might also consider pull starting. It will get the engine turning faster than the starter will do and could make all the difference with a fresh motor. Maybe consider removing the glow plus or injectors and adding some oil into the cylinders to wet things down a little. Crank it a few revolutions while open to blow out the excess, put it together and try again.
Black smoke while cranking is a bit suspicious. I would expect grey or dark grey but not black, so I'm not sure what that means. Maybe pop the intake hose off the manifold and try again. I would NOT try starting fluid, that's asking for trouble.
Once you get past the "no rolling" issue you might also consider pull starting. It will get the engine turning faster than the starter will do and could make all the difference with a fresh motor. Maybe consider removing the glow plus or injectors and adding some oil into the cylinders to wet things down a little. Crank it a few revolutions while open to blow out the excess, put it together and try again.
Last edited: