Ford 1920 Issue number 1 of 2

[stevewatr]

And can you post some pics of your tractor? Including the dash since I am feeling nostalgic now.

I'm going to go out there today, and shoot video of the tractor, a full walk around. that way all you guys who are kind enough to help me can see exactly what the levers look like.

I did see the easy to remove cover on top, and wondered answers might be underneath.

Soon we will all know more about this little tractor :licking:

 

[tawilson]

I'm going to go out there today, and shoot video of the tractor, a full walk around. that way all you guys who are kind enough to help me can see exactly what the levers look like.

I did see the easy to remove cover on top, and wondered answers might be underneath.

Soon we will all know more about this little tractor :licking:

I've thought about pulling that cover off on my 2120. Aren't there springs under there that go flying off? I remember another thread on this subject a while back here.

 

[Soundguy]

And can you post some pics of your tractor? Including the dash since I am feeling nostalgic now.

4 ranges, 3 forward gears on the non shuttle model.

soundguy

 

[stevewatr]

Issues solved!

Issue #1 was the neutral safety switch. Here is a video of how I repaired the existing switch:

Ford 1920 Tractor: Neutral safety switch repair - YouTube

As for issue #2, After swwing how the linkcage from the column went through the transmission cover, I began to doubt the wisdom of pulling that cover just yet. Also, I read Tom's post about the possibility of springs and things possiblly popping out, and decided to pass on that for the time being. I sure am glad I did!

Here is the video "walk around" I promised so you guys can know for sure what model 1920 I have, and see what I see in the way of levers.

Ford 1920 - YouTube

 

[tawilson]

Steve,
I have a few comments concerning your video,
1. That's tool is a scrench, for chainsaws.
2. The knob under the seat adjusts how fast the 3-point drops.
3. The empty slots: one is for a rear hydrauilc remote option, another is for a 3-point draft control.
4.The pedal at the right is to lock the rear differential.
Great video and I appreciate when someone takes the time to let us know how things turn out, I call it "closure".
Oh, I'm envious of your creeper gear.
Good job on figuring your tractor out.

 

[Soundguy]

so does it actually move now?

was the range selectro out of gear? or?

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Glad to see it ended up working out for you :thumbsup:

The round hole under the seat is where the shaft to engage the FWA would be. It is just a round rod with a handle on top to push up to engage FWA or push down to disengage. Since yours in 2wd you don't need to worry about it.

The price for the front grill screen was stupid the last time I checked so I left mine dented and bruised. I didn't see any reason to replace it at that cost when a stray limb will damage it quickly again.

 

[stevewatr]

Steve,
I have a few comments concerning your video,
1. That's tool is a scrench, for chainsaws.
2. The knob under the seat adjusts how fast the 3-point drops.
3. The empty slots: one is for a rear hydrauilc remote option, another is for a 3-point draft control.
4.The pedal at the right is to lock the rear differential.
Great video and I appreciate when someone takes the time to let us know how things turn out, I call it "closure".
Oh, I'm envious of your creeper gear.
Good job on figuring your tractor out.

Hi Tom. Yup, I knew what it was, but that name just alluded me then. Free scrench, but it won't fit my Stihl, I'll try it on my older Husky.

The diff lock, that makes sense!

Would it be hard to add remote hydraulics to the rear if I wanted to??

With no three point draft control, does that mean this would not be a good tractor for a bottom plow??


I took off the front wheel today to check out the front wheel bearing on the side with the tire rubbing, and was shocked at how heavy the wheel assemblly was. Turns out those horrible looking front tires are foam filled!

Talk about a nice bonus. I know the tire shop near us gets big $$$ to do that, and I hear they are good to have when brush hogging wich is what I want to put the tractor to work doing first.

The 3 point does not seem to lift very high, any idea what angle the lower arms should be at when fully lifted??

 

[stevewatr]

so does it actually move now?

was the range selectro out of gear? or?

Hi Soundguy. Yup, it moves great. Please check out the video if you get a chance. It was the lever to the left of the drivers seat looking down. It selects four ranges, but then the one on the dashboard only seems to have forward/neutral/reverse, but the chart on the rear fender seems to indicate it should have 3 x 4 for 12 gears total, can you look at the video and set me straight on this???

 

[whodat526]

the tractor has a standard trans and the most common reason for the plastic around the shifter to be broke is woren shift linkage and or broken shift forks

 

[stevewatr]

Glad to see it ended up working out for you :thumbsup:

The round hole under the seat is where the shaft to engage the FWA would be. It is just a round rod with a handle on top to push up to engage FWA or push down to disengage. Since yours in 2wd you don't need to worry about it.

The price for the front grill screen was stupid the last time I checked so I left mine dented and bruised. I didn't see any reason to replace it at that cost when a stray limb will damage it quickly again.

Thanks Robert. I was thinking of checking some Ford salvage yards for a better grille, since that was is so rough.

One rear fender is also pretty dinged up.

But things are looking up!:thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

mine had 3+r on the column, and 4 ranges beside the seat.

as for the hyds.. hard to add? no.. expensive to add? Yes..

at least for the oem add on pack.

might tap into the adapter block at the side of the engine, a dna dd some kUsToM valving to save a few bucks...

soundguy

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Hi Soundguy. Yup, it moves great. Please check out the video if you get a chance. It was the lever to the left of the drivers seat looking down. It selects four ranges, but then the one on the dashboard only seems to have forward/neutral/reverse, but the chart on the rear fender seems to indicate it should have 3 x 4 for 12 gears total, can you look at the video and set me straight on this???

The lever next to the steering column should move left to right as well as back and forth. There would be three forward gears and one reverse. The reverse is left and down and the forward gears would be left/up, right/up, right/down. Then you have the 4 ranges which gives you a 12x4 tranny. Of course my memory is really bad so trying to remember this particular tractor is tough and I am recalling similar transmissions from my past.

 

[Soundguy]

yep, I can't remember the exact column shift pettern on that one either. traded my 1920 in about 2002 for my 7610s


soundguy

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Glad to see you got it going without spending any money.I think you should have 3 forwards plus reverse on the collum. See if you can find an operators manual on line. Here is one I found FMF - Ford 1920 Tractor - Operator's Manual - $9.99 You cant beat the price and it should explain how every thing should function. You can instsntly download after paying.
Bill

 

[stevewatr]

Thanks for the link Hooked on hp, I'm downloading the operator's manual as I type this post. When I get the wheel back on, I'll try playing with that lever on the column to find/test the other gears.

Oh, my download of the manual just finished, yup, looks good. Looks like the missing parts of my broken dash had the gears written right on it:laughing:

Cool beans!

 

[stevewatr]

Repacked the front wheel bearings, and turned flipped the front wheel around to correct the issue of the tire sidewall rubbing that bolt head. Notice in the operator's manual that this was a normal way to change tread width. Then I notice the side that was not rubbing already had the wheel turned that way. Now with both valve stems faceing inwards, no more rubbing issue.

Boy are those foam filled tires heavy!

After getting the wheels back on, I test drove, and checked out the gear shift question we were talking about, and yes, it does have three speeds forward, and 1 reverse on the column.:thumbsup:

One thing that did happen, when going at high speed down the paved road, at one point the front end got a little "squirrely" on me. Wheels did a little side to side shimmy thing, but I slowed doen and it was okay.

Steve.

 

[Soundguy]

try to locate the play.. I guess you can rule out hub and bearing.

might still be rim / tire, or back..

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I would check the toe on the front tires. As bad as the are worn you may need some adjustment. Are you sure the tires are foam filled and not liquid filled. I wouldn't think foam would be that heavy. Now for the nosey question. What did you give for it.
Bill

 

[RickB]

I would check the toe on the front tires. As bad as the are worn you may need some adjustment. Are you sure the tires are foam filled and not liquid filled. I wouldn't think foam would be that heavy. Now for the nosey question. What did you give for it.
Bill

Foam filled tires are wicked heavy.