Newbie here. So I changed out the infamous neutral switch and figured I'd update the key switch/ignition as well. Went slow, so pretty sure I did it correctly. Battery is strong, checked the three 10-amp fuses, all new. But I get zero juice to the fuel gauge or anything else, not even a click. Looked for eaten wires, saw none. Thoughts here? I'm stumped....
Ford 1920 - no power to ignition/gauges - [1987]
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
Have you checked for a fusible link? It would be near the battery cable post on the starter. All power to the system would have to go through it, so if it blows nothing works.
grcutter
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- 2000 NH 2120, 1999 NH 1920, 1986 Ford 1710
If the fusible link did blow (as @Harry in Ky suggests) you can find replacement info in this post: NH 1920 Fusible Link rating?
But before replacing it, you need to recheck the wiring for something that caused the fusible link to blow, such as miswiring the Key Switch.
If the fusible link is good, the next guess would still be miswiring the Key Switch.
Power comes into the tractor on the red wire which should be connected to switch terminal 30.
Black/White wire should go to terminal 17.
Yellow/Black wire should go to terminal 19.
AC terminal should go to the fuses.
Terminal 50 goes to things like the neutral start relay and the glow plug timer, etc.
I've attached a highlighted schematic.
If you have the repair manual, note that in figure 79 for the Key Switch, the descriptions for terminal 50 and terminal AC appear to be swapped. Figure 78 is correct.
The Neutral Start Relay is unlikely to be the cause of this issue.
But before replacing it, you need to recheck the wiring for something that caused the fusible link to blow, such as miswiring the Key Switch.
If the fusible link is good, the next guess would still be miswiring the Key Switch.
Power comes into the tractor on the red wire which should be connected to switch terminal 30.
Black/White wire should go to terminal 17.
Yellow/Black wire should go to terminal 19.
AC terminal should go to the fuses.
Terminal 50 goes to things like the neutral start relay and the glow plug timer, etc.
I've attached a highlighted schematic.
If you have the repair manual, note that in figure 79 for the Key Switch, the descriptions for terminal 50 and terminal AC appear to be swapped. Figure 78 is correct.
The Neutral Start Relay is unlikely to be the cause of this issue.
Attachments
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
Actually, those links can indeed fail for no particular reason, and going crazy looking for a problem that doesn't exist can be counter productive. I usually hook up a quick jumper wire in its place and start turning things on. If everything works and no problems appear. I replace the part and move on.
Just curious what you replaced the neutral safety switch with. I have cleaned mine a few times. I know one time I had unplugged some of the gauges. Does the tractor run? I changed out my ignition too with a Kubota one, my key broke off in the old ignition
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rScotty
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- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
I'm not familiar with the Ford compacts, and don't believe that many were sold around here. From the data on tractordata. com it does look like a wonderful basic tractor & I wish I knew that whole tractor family better.
BTW, nice thread here. Lots of solid info. And now I'm also wondering why a fusible link instead of a fuse? Anyone know? Searching about the fusible link led me to taking a closer look at the 1920 electrical system.... frankly it seems overly complex to me.
And where is the starter solenoid? Within the starter? That would be odd....maybe I missed it.
Anyway, here is another detailed schematic for anyone who finds curiousity more compelling than breakfast.
rScotty
BTW, nice thread here. Lots of solid info. And now I'm also wondering why a fusible link instead of a fuse? Anyone know? Searching about the fusible link led me to taking a closer look at the 1920 electrical system.... frankly it seems overly complex to me.
And where is the starter solenoid? Within the starter? That would be odd....maybe I missed it.
Anyway, here is another detailed schematic for anyone who finds curiousity more compelling than breakfast.
rScotty
kirkawilson
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- Simpsonville, SC
- Tractor
- New Holland 1920 4WD & Cub Cadet (IH) Model 108
The starter solenoid is hard-mounted to the starter. It seems to work fine as long as you can maintain 12V+ through all of the safeties in the wiring harness when starting. For a quick start, you can 'bypass' the wiring harness at the starter and jump directly from the battery connection to the solenoid.