ford 2000 rear end hydraulic fluid level indicator

[maizeandblue]

Ive already asked a couple of questions on here and have had good responses that have reafirmed my thoughts. So here goes one more.

I drained my rearend fluid so I could replace the brake pedal cross shaft, seals, and bushings. Going back in with new fluid, Travellars UTF 134 A,B,C,D equivalent. My question is when I drained the fluid I got probably 35-37 quarts of fluid out. Book calls for I believe it was 28.2 qts. The service book talks about refilling and checking the fluid level. What I thought was a sight glass is actually a plug. Take a look at the pic and let me know if this is the correct location to check the fluid level for the rearend. Do I remove the sqaure plug and if fluid barely runs out then it is at the right level, correct (much like the rearend on a pick up)?

 

[maizeandblue]

Oh, and two more quick questions. When trying to start my tractor, it makes a clicking noise and after about 2-3 tries it fires up. Its like the bendex (think thats what it's called) goes up and strikes the flywheel but doesn't have enought umph to turn it over until about the third try. All the while one of the wires coming off the solenoid starts heating up to where it starts smoking. Our next step is to remove the starter and go through it. We have made sure all the wires are tight and it still continues to act this way. And lastly would I be better off after fixing this issue, to go to an altenator or stay with the generator.

 

[HakanTh]

Ive already asked a couple of questions on here and have had good responses that have reafirmed my thoughts. So here goes one more.

I drained my rearend fluid so I could replace the brake pedal cross shaft, seals, and bushings. Going back in with new fluid, Travellars UTF 134 A,B,C,D equivalent. My question is when I drained the fluid I got probably 35-37 quarts of fluid out. Book calls for I believe it was 28.2 qts. The service book talks about refilling and checking the fluid level. What I thought was a sight glass is actually a plug. Take a look at the pic and let me know if this is the correct location to check the fluid level for the rearend. Do I remove the sqaure plug and if fluid barely runs out then it is at the right level, correct (much like the rearend on a pick up)?

You have found the correct level plug, operation is as you suggested.
The operator's handbook ( Ford Tractor Models 2000, 3000, 4000, and 5000 Operator's / Service Manual ) states it is 42 Imperial pints which gives 25.2 US quarts.
If the tractor is (or has been) equipped with some external hydraulic, the rear end may have more hydraulic fluid then stated in order to maintain the volume needed for the internal hydraulics when the external is operated.

 

[HakanTh]

Oh, and two more quick questions. When trying to start my tractor, it makes a clicking noise and after about 2-3 tries it fires up. Its like the bendex (think thats what it's called) goes up and strikes the flywheel but doesn't have enought umph to turn it over until about the third try. All the while one of the wires coming off the solenoid starts heating up to where it starts smoking. Our next step is to remove the starter and go through it. We have made sure all the wires are tight and it still continues to act this way. And lastly would I be better off after fixing this issue, to go to an altenator or stay with the generator.

Since it starts alright after 2-3 tries I think it is a problem with engaging the teeth on starter with the teeth on the flywheel. Could be some damages on the teeth. The smoking wire is to me a sign that the solenoid keeps pushing, but there is something stopping it before the starter motor is connected. Anyhow, you will get that sorted once the starter comes out for inspection.

Originally you have a 22A generator. That was sufficient for the tractor when it came from factory. If you have extra electrical equipment (working lights, fan etc.) you may need more charging capacity. An alternator is often less troublesome and it starts charging at lower engine speed, than the generator. If you are doing shorter runs, an alternator is better at keeping the battery charged which prolonges the battery lifetime. I think that if your electrical equipment is about the same as original and the generator setup is working, keep the generator and put your money on a battery charger that you connect when the tractor is not in use. The charger holds the battery in good shape and you will always have starting capacity.

 

[maizeandblue]

Thank you Hakan, especially for the differences in a generator vs an altenator. I have wondered why they put generators on the old tractors but everyone converts over to an altenator.

As for the hydraulic fluid, I haven't seen any signs that an external device had been attached. Talking with a friend who grew up on a farm and still farms time to time with his brother, he stated if the tractor was leaking gear oil, then they probably filled it when they used it all day so they wouldn't have to stop to check and fill throughout the day. Thanks again.

Tractor newbie here and Im learning a lot. I bought a couple of repair/service manuals but one is a copy and the pics are atrocious. Have been thinking of buying a parts manual and owners manual, do you know of anyone who sells quality reprints not copies? The ones I have seen have 200-300 dollars, with the low end being reprints and the high end original. I've even seen originals selling for 600.

 

[HakanTh]

Just to get it right, on your tractor the gear box and rear axle do not use the same fluid volume. You fill UTF in both, but there are two different compartements/filler plugs/level plugs.

I think reprints are hard to find, hope someone else has some better news for you.

 

[maizeandblue]

Just to get it right, on your tractor the gear box and rear axle do not use the same fluid volume. You fill UTF in both, but there are two different compartements/filler plugs/level plugs.

Ok the newb in me is coming out. I drained the fluid from under the rear chunk (what us southern rednecks call the differential). In front of the rear there is a PTO inspection plate (6-1/2" diameter) by the PTO engagement lever that we removed to inspect cross shaft and bushings. All the fluid was drained from this area as well as the rearend. I refilled it at the plug on top of the rear chunk. The only other fill spot was above the tranny. I looked in it before filling anything and it appeared to be at appropriate level. So i concluded that it was not connected to the rear end fluid wise. Is this what you are refering to by "gear box" and "rear end"?

 

[HakanTh]

Yes, rear end = rear axle/differential housing and the gear box is in the tranny housing.
You have got it all right, I just reacted on your friend's comment about gear oil.

 

[maizeandblue]

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Soundguy]

and to add further clarification.

rear axle and hyds are a common sump.. trans is seperate.