I have recently taken on a 120 acre farm reclaiming. Everything was so over grown with stubble and briars you couldn't walk it. I consulted Conservation and local MFA for help. We decided that the best thing to do was mow it and then get a bottom plow and turn it over. I have started with a 20 acre field. Mowed it all down in late fall. Now I have picked up this 3 bottom plow that I believe is a Ford. The only marking I have found is a "6" on the rail behind the middle plow. It has sat in a field for years but is still solid. I replaced all the grease zerks and greased well. I also replaced the adjustment bolt on the R/S that was broken. Off to the field I went. It does very well in the easy stuff but when I hit the briar stubble and ect. the L/S plow started tripping. I can swing it back into place and it snapps right in. After 4-5 laps around the field it is the only one that continuously trips. Is there an adjustment to tighten the trip mechanism? Also what kind of adjustments do I make with depth, speed, and the adj. bolt that changes the angle. Also, do I plow in straight lines back and forth or do I go around in a circle like mowing. I am really just learning and would appreciate all the help there is to offer. I am pulling with a Ford 4000 50 hp tractor.
Ford 3 bottom plow help
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Egon
Epic Contributor
Suggest you go in straight lines and plough six to eight inches deep.
As the furrow will be turned to the other side when returning leave a space between the two directions you plow in. More passes and the space gets smaller and eventually the furrows meet. Then start over.
Or, start the first two furrows side by side which lets the ploughed area get wider. When it's wide enough that you spend too much time on the headland start over.
Clear as mud I know. There's other's that will do better.
Some folks may want to plough in a square pattern either getting bigger or smaller.
Can't help on the trip adjustment but just by looking at it you will figure it out.
As the furrow will be turned to the other side when returning leave a space between the two directions you plow in. More passes and the space gets smaller and eventually the furrows meet. Then start over.
Or, start the first two furrows side by side which lets the ploughed area get wider. When it's wide enough that you spend too much time on the headland start over.
Clear as mud I know. There's other's that will do better.
Some folks may want to plough in a square pattern either getting bigger or smaller.
Can't help on the trip adjustment but just by looking at it you will figure it out.
Egon
Epic Contributor
That's about it but keep the distance between down to a comfortable level.
gwdixon
Elite Member
If it is a Ford 101 then here are the manual pages for trip adjustment.
gwdixon
Elite Member
The side plate doesn't need to be removed. The spring can be accessed from the rear of the assembly.
It doesn't much matter what the inside looks like as long as the spring can be adjusted.
Here is a photo of a Ford 101 to compare to yours. (Drawbar removed.)
gwdixon
Elite Member
Oh, and here is after the restoration.
sweettractors
Advertiser
If it is a "101" series. get the grease off the trip mechanisim asap. Then, Screw "in" the adjusting bolt that comes out the back of the shank to increase tripping pressure. Ken Sweet.
Thanks for the info. I made adjustments to the trip. I am maxed out now and still having the same trouble this morning. By the pics you sent it is a 3-point 101 so thanks greatly for the pics and the manual pages. Last night I reviewed on-line video and ect. and made 3-point arm adjustments accordingly. The first two blades cut great and don't trip. I think that they might be rusted in place. This is great being what I am plowing is rough stuff. But the third still trips way to easy. The plow also clogs up real fast in the briars. I mowed it but now think I would have been better served doing a controlled burn. I tried to get some help to do this last fall but am finding help is hard to come by. Trying to control a 20 acre burn with me, my wife and our 8 adopted little ones would be to much of a risk. This plow has an angle adjustment on the right side. Does a certain angle and pitch help in this type of ground. Should I sharpen the sod cutters? They are really dull.
milkman636
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I think I'd stick with the plow first. The coulters should be adjusted deep enough to cut through the lighter roots. Are all three shares plowing the same depth or is the back one running deep? Is there any damage to the back bottom?
If the plow is running level and cutting evenly and all the points are in good condition, I'd be peeking inside the trip mechanism trying to figure out what was going on.
If the plow is running level and cutting evenly and all the points are in good condition, I'd be peeking inside the trip mechanism trying to figure out what was going on.
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sweettractors
Advertiser
If you have maxed out your adjustment and removed all grease from the trip, you could weld the shank into place until you finish this project and then grind off the weld and go into the trip to find the problem. When your right tire is in the furrow, the plow should be level, left to right with the field and front to back with the field. The adjustment on the crossbar is to align the plow to follow the tractor in a direct straight line ( l )and not at a angle ( / ). Ken Sweet
Egon
Epic Contributor
note: no knowledge of the trip but is it resetting properly.
milkman636
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Is the trip lever getting a full bite on the beam?
If there is junk in there that is not allowing the trip lever to follow the cam all the way and solidly lock the trip beam in place, the plow will cant when put into the ground and change its cutting angle.
If there is junk in there that is not allowing the trip lever to follow the cam all the way and solidly lock the trip beam in place, the plow will cant when put into the ground and change its cutting angle.
I had a similar problem years ago with a 2-bottom John Deere plow. Manully trip the bottom as shown in the manual that was posted. Inspected the latching notch. You will probably find that it is worn (rounded over). You may want to compare it to one that is not tripping. I had to weld and grind the notch on the plow to bring it back to its original shape. It has worked like a charm since. I would try to avoid welding it to defeat the trip mechanism. This is a safety feature to protect the plow, tractor and operator.
Well I am back from trying all the above and I think that the trip mech. is worn out and needs repair. I think that I will weld it in place with a brace so I can finish this 20 acre spot and then pull it apart to do more inspection and repair. Although this thing is solid, every bolt is rusted to the hilt and I am afraid that if I start trying to take it apart now it will be down for a while. Can someone tell me what the proper adj. for the sod cutters are. I am thinking of just ditching them for the time being due to the field being so stalky. Is this o.k.
Also I will need to get a manual and parts for when I tear it apart. Where can I get these?
Also I will need to get a manual and parts for when I tear it apart. Where can I get these?
Egon
Epic Contributor
Consider using an angle grinder to sharpen the :thumbsup:sod cutters. That may make a difference.
