Ford 3000 New Carb, seems Governor isn't kicking in

[banc123]

I just put a new zenith carb (was the original holly) on my ford 3000. Fired up and runs fine other than when I was discing last weekend when it was put under load, the governor didn't kick it and add more power like it used to. It just sort of bogs down.

I had to lengthen the throttle to govern rod like 1/4 inch because it wouldn't reach the linkage. It had a threaded adjustment that just unscrewed to give it the little bit it needed.

I did also notice that at full throttle on the lever under steering wheel, it doesn't give as much fuel as it used to.

I was hoping to not have to mess with any screws on the carb.

Does this sound like a carb screw adjustment needed or some kind of adjustment on the throttle/governor ?

Whats interesting is when I connected the linkage, it was fairly tight and was wide open on the carb stop. But once cranked, it pulls back from against the stop.

I can move the governor rod with my hand once cranked to add fuel RPMs fine, but the throttle won't add any more fuel and the governor doesn't kick in under a load.

Thoughts ? Thanks..

 

[Soundguy]

i've rarely bought a carb and installed it right out of the box and NOT had to adjust it at least a little.

Yours could be lean.

soundguy

 

[banc123]

I'm still stuck

The idle needed a little adjustment so it didn't conk out with the throttle all the way on low. When I moved it to full throttle, it was pretty smooth, but didn't produce as much RPMs as it used to at full. I added about 1/2 inch to the linkage between the governor and the carb, but had no effect.

If I watch the linkage and move the throttle fast from low to full, it revs pretty high then the governor kicks in and adjusts it back.

I gave the main jet screw two turns tighter and I couldn't tell a difference. I reversed that and then gave it two turns loser and the spring started moving so I didn't go any further and put it back where I started.

When discing under a load it slows way down and feels like its straining a lot. If I step on the clutch it revs back up. Before it was much stronger discing at the same depth speed and if it hit a big load, the governor would kick in and add more RPMs.

I went ahead and replaced the fuel tank shut off valve put on a new inline filter and fuel line just to make sure it was all clean.

Does it still sound like a carb adjustment ? I ordered the Ford manual late last week, but it hasn't gotten here yet.

With the throttle wide open, is there a way to adjust it so it opens the float more ? There is still plenty of room if I manually move the governor with my finger to make the float open more.

 

[Soundguy]

float settings aren't soemthing you need to adjust for rpm.. the float merely operates a valve letting fuel into the carb bowl.

normally a zenith is a decent 'power' carb.. though fuel ineficient compaired to the holley carb.

are you sure you got the correct carb for your model?

it almost sounds lean.

does a lil choke help it any when it is low on power?

soundguy

 

[banc123]

I haven't tried the choke when its bogging with a load.

This is the Carb I bought, hopefully I didn't screw up. The holly carb that was on it had clearly stamped on top of the bowl C9NN9510A and R4119-1A

Its a 65-74 3 cyl , the original tractor was Ford 3000 , I had it rebuilt 2 years ago by a Massy Dealer who said the engine had already been rebuilt once and the replacement was a Ford 4000 engine ; which is what he rebuilt. But I'm sure the carb had C9NN9510A and R4119-1A stamped on it, so I went with the existing part # as the guide.


PARTS FORD Carburetor, New - With reversible linkage. This Zenith carburetor outperforms the original carbs used on- 2000, 2100. For 3 cylinder 158 CID engines. Replaces OEM# C9NN9510A, C7NN9510B, D8NN9510AA, D6NN9510A, and Holley P\N R4119, R7867, R8552. Center to center on the 2 mounting bolts is 2 11\16 inches

 

[Jerry/MT]

I just put a new zenith carb (was the original holly) on my ford 3000. Fired up and runs fine other than when I was discing last weekend when it was put under load, the governor didn't kick it and add more power like it used to. It just sort of bogs down.

I had to lengthen the throttle to govern rod like 1/4 inch because it wouldn't reach the linkage. It had a threaded adjustment that just unscrewed to give it the little bit it needed.

I did also notice that at full throttle on the lever under steering wheel, it doesn't give as much fuel as it used to.

I was hoping to not have to mess with any screws on the carb.

Does this sound like a carb screw adjustment needed or some kind of adjustment on the throttle/governor ?

Whats interesting is when I connected the linkage, it was fairly tight and was wide open on the carb stop. But once cranked, it pulls back from against the stop.

I can move the governor rod with my hand once cranked to add fuel RPMs fine, but the throttle won't add any more fuel and the governor doesn't kick in under a load.

Thoughts ? Thanks..

I think you need to get the directions to adjust the governor linkage on your tractor. You changed the length of the throttle rod and I think that's limiting your rpm.

 

[banc123]

I changed the length of the rod because the first go around I noticed at full throttle it had lower RPMs , thought by lengthening it would push more RPMs at full throttle. It didn't, the governor adjusts it right back. I also set it back to the same length it was originally today and tried that, but it also made no difference. Sure seems like no matter if I lengthen it or use the old length the governor over rides it. I ordered the shop manual, not sure if thats in there or not.

 

[banc123]

While I know the original carb had R411-1A and the other # stamped on it, I did wonder how to tell if the engine is

158 CID
175 CID
or 201 CID

Since I saw Ford 3000 cyl could be either of those.

I assume each of those requires a different carb , I just trusted what was stamped on the old one as the right part #.

 

[banc123]

float settings aren't something you need to adjust for rpm.. the float merely operates a valve letting fuel into the carb bowl.

I guess what I meant was when I manually pushed the float more open, it gave it more fuel and therefore more RMPs, was trying to figure out if there was a way to have it at full throttle and adjust that position so the float was opened wider at that point, giving more power. Which may not be the right/good thing, but it crossed my mind as a way to get more power/fuel than I was getting.

 

[Soundguy]

I think i'd adjust a carb meant for a 3000 a lil richer if on a 4000 engine too.

soundguy