Loader Ford 3550 industrial transmission help

[TractorTech]

I've attempted to attach some pictures of the power steering cylinder and the transmission and linkage to hopefully help out this discussion.

Thanks for all the help thus far.


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Skeeter,
I left on vacation before I could get you service info on the steering, but attached is the blowup from the parts website. In a nutshell #9 and #10 have to be tight. #10 moves very slightly when you turn the wheel to activate the steering assist spool valve. If it and/or #9 are loose, then you have manual steering.

 

[TractorTech]

JNewman 1, welcome to TBN. You should probably have started a new thread, but I can try to answer what might be wrong. It sounds to me that you are not building pump pressure due to a worn pump. It is not picking up the oil right away AND, after it runs for awhile, it looses pressure through old seals as the oil thins and the seals become warm and pliable. Early shuttle transmissions also tended to drop the pump filter when the adhesive used to hold the filter on the pump pickup dried out. In other words, the shuttle needs to be rebuilt/resealed.
An external test on these transmissions for pressure problems is to install a 0-300 psi gauge in the test port found under the 4 bolt plate at the bottom of the bell housing. Acceptable pressure for the transmission is between 180 and 220 psi. If you test the pressure here, make sure you block the wheels and have the gearshift on the gearbox (stick coming out of the transmission) in neutral. Also, get a hose that is long enough so that you are able to see the gauge from the seat.

 

[skeeter102]

JNewman 1, welcome to TBN. You should probably have started a new thread, but I can try to answer what might be wrong. It sounds to me that you are not building pump pressure due to a worn pump. It is not picking up the oil right away AND, after it runs for awhile, it looses pressure through old seals as the oil thins and the seals become warm and pliable. Early shuttle transmissions also tended to drop the pump filter when the adhesive used to hold the filter on the pump pickup dried out. In other words, the shuttle needs to be rebuilt/resealed.
An external test on these transmissions for pressure problems is to install a 0-300 psi gauge in the test port found under the 4 bolt plate at the bottom of the bell housing. Acceptable pressure for the transmission is between 180 and 220 psi. If you test the pressure here, make sure you block the wheels and have the gearshift on the gearbox (stick coming out of the transmission) in neutral. Also, get a hose that is long enough so that you are able to see the gauge from the seat.

Thanks for the info. I'll check that tomorrow if I get a chance.

I noticed the other day that the opposite end of the steering cylinder, where it mounts to the front of the tractor, has some play. Should that be tight there as well?

 

[TractorTech]

Skeeter, the rod end needs to be tight too as the sense valve requires input as to when the cylinder and draglink have centered. Likewise, the sense valve needs to open when pushed off center by the input it receives from the steering wheel via the pitman arm. Once the cylinder stops moving, the sense valve centers back to neutral. The only area where the steering system can have slop is above the pitman arm.

 

[skeeter102]

Skeeter, the rod end needs to be tight too as the sense valve requires input as to when the cylinder and draglink have centered. Likewise, the sense valve needs to open when pushed off center by the input it receives from the steering wheel via the pitman arm. Once the cylinder stops moving, the sense valve centers back to neutral. The only area where the steering system can have slop is above the pitman arm.

I tightened the end of the hydraulic cylinder where it hard mounts to the front of the tractor. I also put a wrench where you indicated, where the drag link from the steering knuckle meets the hydraulic cylinder at the valve. But, when you turn the nut, the whole unit just spins and I don't see a place to hold backup with a wrench like I did on the other end of the cylinder. I'm thinking this whole valve may need to be rebuilt.

Thoughts? And, thanks for the help thus far.


As far as the transmission goes, I found that if I idle down all the way and bring the tractor to a complete stop, the shuttle will go to neutral and stay there. I need to do a complete fluid/filter change on the transmission and get some fresh utf in it and see what happens.

 

[City Farmer]

I've never hated a piece of equipment as much as I hate this pos.

I'd rather dig a hole with my 24" drag scoop than even try and use the front bucket on this pos

If/when you get it all sorted out, it will be one fine digging machine. I plucked out a double stump so big with the 4400 yesterday, the 4500 couldn't pick it up. It took about 5min. If you rebuild that cylinder, it's going to run you about $350 or so. They have to cut it open, repack it and weld it all up. You'll save a few bucks if you take it down to the bare cylinder.

 

[skeeter102]

If/when you get it all sorted out, it will be one fine digging machine. I plucked out a double stump so big with the 4400 yesterday, the 4500 couldn't pick it up. It took about 5min. If you rebuild that cylinder, it's going to run you about $350 or so. They have to cut it open, repack it and weld it all up. You'll save a few bucks if you take it down to the bare cylinder.

Is it possible to buy an off the shelf replacement?

 

[TractorTech]

Replacement cylinder is no longer available. Seal kit for the valve section runs about $35-40. The rubber boots run another $150. for the valve end only. Disassembling the valve end is the way to get a hold of the sensor pin on the pitman AND look to see if it is worn in the sleeve. It could have worn the taper in the arm though.
As City Farmer says, it is well worth rebuilding.
On the transmission, are you having trouble finding a neutral or is it difficult to shift from F to N to R going into N? That transmission uses a 'blocker valve' that only lets you engage the transmission into F or R when the RPM is below 1200. It sits on the top of the shuttle assembly and may be boogered up from being forced. Removing the fuel tank and bell housing cover allows access to it to remove and check. But if it is working like JNewman's was, a pressure check is the best way to see if the pump is satisfactory and the F and R clutches are holding pressure.

 

[skeeter102]

Replacement cylinder is no longer available. Seal kit for the valve section runs about $35-40. The rubber boots run another $150. for the valve end only. Disassembling the valve end is the way to get a hold of the sensor pin on the pitman AND look to see if it is worn in the sleeve. It could have worn the taper in the arm though.
As City Farmer says, it is well worth rebuilding.
On the transmission, are you having trouble finding a neutral or is it difficult to shift from F to N to R going into N? That transmission uses a 'blocker valve' that only lets you engage the transmission into F or R when the RPM is below 1200. It sits on the top of the shuttle assembly and may be boogered up from being forced. Removing the fuel tank and bell housing cover allows access to it to remove and check. But if it is working like JNewman's was, a pressure check is the best way to see if the pump is satisfactory and the F and R clutches are holding pressure.

On the transmission, it's hard to find neutral on the shuttle. You can feel the shuttle drop into the neutral detent but it will either hang in the gear you were in or switch to the opposite gear. In either case it skips neutral entirely. But, it seems like if you bring the tractor to idle bring it to a complete stop, it will go into neutral.

It will go from forward to reverse no matter the engine rpm.

 

[City Farmer]

Have you flushed the transmission or checked any of your pressures yet (steering & trans)? The power reverser on my 4500 was acting up when I first got it. Not a lot of power & slippng, it had water in it. It took 4 flushes (16 gallons total) with TSC universal to make it run clean. I used a Mopar filter for the flush, then the OEM filter after the final flush. I topped it off with Case HyTran. It will spin both loaded tires with wheel weights pulling a 7' 1000lb box blade full of dirt. It spins them driving into a pile too.