Ford 3600 coolant leak near starter - how to split

[HenryIV]

Took the tractor out this morning, noticed a significant coolant stream leaking from the right side under the starter. It was in the garage with antifreeze in the coolant. I suspect a corroded or displaced engine casting plug or a crack in the block. It is not the top one.(too easy) Did not see any evidence of water in oil. I need to split the tractor to find out what happened. Steering linkage ect, exhaust, tacho cable, wiring, stays with back.

What to do with hyd pump? it has two lines. The small line has a fitting so no problem. The big line does not have a fitting and it goes across the tractor to the right side, then down...and along the bottom to the rear diff. Is there some way to split the pump? Am I missing something easier?

 

[RickB]

The suction line is a slip fit into the pump housing and sealed with an o-ring. Disconnect the pressure line then unbolt the pump from the block and pull it free of the suction tube. Leave the tube more or less in place. Replace the suction tube o-ring and pump mount gasket.

 

[HenryIV]

Thank you for the advice Ford tractor friends. I did split the 3600 tractor. It was more complicated than the 3000s I saw on YouTube. There is an inspection plate with a standard screw on the right side going into the bell housing. There were also 3 bolts in the same plate going into the block behind the bell housing, so the first screw must be removed or no split.

I removed 1.75" dia lower freeze plug, the one behind the flywheel. Man, the flywheel was heavy, even when you expect it. I think I know what to use for my kinetic log splitter build. The plug now exposed did have a small but obvious hole rotted into it and a cold chisel and hammer took it out easily. Despite a flush when I took ownership a few years ago, I and found some heavier than coolant sludge, about a half cup, full of solid bits of non metallic material in the water jacket behind that port in the block's casting. Graphite colored sludge, slimy but not particularly oily and heavier than the coolant and not dissolving in the coolant. I can only suspect was some kind of stop leak, I still do not know exactly how I will clear out the remainder, as the front end is now in the drainless garage without being able to move it, thanks to the total lack of attachment points on the back of the engine. I'll come up with something like a tube and a 5 gal bucket. The leak was the primary symptom, not any problem with the clutch, never noticed water in oil or oil in coolant, or loss in power.

B&B Type 2 "Double" clutch found within, maybe the original. Clevis pin broke or fell out of one of the PP arms, but no big damage except for the throwout bearing and will replace it with pilot bearing. Drive clutch still had meat but will replace. No scoring or groove found on metal contact surfaces. Captive PTO disk maybe was never replaced, looks tired, thinner. I'm glad for that leak, as I found some things that would have been a problem in the future.

1. However, rearward of the throwout there is a seal (is this the front transmission seal?) what is it called? Now would be a good time to replace it. It is the seal supporting the shaft.

2. What on the back of the engine needs to be checked? Seals?

3. I am going to open the PP and replace the PTO disk. I'd like to keep the B&B parts as much as possible, any tips on adjusting the PP? Thanks all.

 

[HenryIV]

Opened up PP, no gouging. Still some meat on the PTO disk but it did not look as good as drive disk, both will be replaced. Bell housing was full of oil. I thing the seal where the shaft goes into the gearbox needs to be replaced.

 

[HenryIV]

So I did complete the split.
Put in two new clutch plates, did the rear seals and PTO input seal/bearing. Spent a lot of time to adjust the clutch fingers and pedal adjustment, works great. I replaced the seals for the steering and the old seal plastic was so hard, they were really difficult to remove so I carefully drilled holes in the plastic seals without touching the metal until I could dig them out with sharpened nails in a vice grip. (make sure the circlips are completely seated in their groove.) A 1/2" stub of PEX will slip over the threaded steering cylinder ends and allow you to use a mallet to knock seals all the way in, but keep the brass washer off until you are done whacking the seals in as not to not bend it. Did all filters. Found a nest wedged over the fuel tank. Flushed gunk out of the block. Replace the $1 freeze plug that started it all. Welded up a fixture to support the engine inside the oil pan bolts so I didn't crush the stamped oil pan, if you do you can bend or block the oil pickup and damage the engine. The battery cables were a fire in the making. Replaced those. All parts excluding filters were just about $200. Quite reasonable. Mating the tractor just took patience and a buddy. I put some anti-seize on the splines to make it easier.