Ford 4000 boiling over.

[Egon]

I'd suggest an alternate feeding program available before you take things apart.

 

[Soundguy]

Removing the thermostat didn't help you any.

I'd flow test the radiator with a garden hose in the top.. it should allow a full flow from a 1/2" garden hose without running back out the top.

You can test your water pump with a hose off aimed in a bucket .. see if the impellor is working.

Pas that.. i'd say you may need to flush the system, or if the rad is plugged.. professionaly have it repaired or replace it... the thermostat too.

next.. the head gasket idea is a good one.. time for a compression and leakdown test.

that machine should not overheat.. it has plenty of cooling capacity built in..

soundguy

 

[funny farmer]

Finally got the new water pump on it last week. I haven't tested it out yet, but it seems to have been the problem. Lucky the tractor still runs, they must be tough.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Pulling it and taking it to a good radiator shop is in order on any thing over 10 years old, especially on something like a tractor when overheating is an issue.

The radiator is not cooling like it was 40 something years ago if it has not been replaced.

 

[FULLPULL]

I agree with the thermostat needs to be in place . We had a 8n act like yours it ended up being the head gasket . After it was rebuilt we found out the gasket was installed incorectly so all of the holes in the block and the head didnt line up . We fixed it with a new gasket . The compression test didnt show this on our tractor . I will agree the test needs to be done first .

 

[funny farmer]

Just idling it didn't get as hot as it used to. I'll be able to tell this weekend when I start discing again. (if it quits raining)

 

[newtraditionsfarm]

Any luck? I have 1972 Ford 4000 3-Cyl gas with the exact same problem. I flushed the radiator, which seems to have decent flow (thought it's pretty old and some of the fins are bent). The tractor starts up fine, usually blows one puff of white smoke until it gets going and then the exhaust is clear. After about 600' running my 4' roto-tiller or two bottom plow I start boiling over and loosing coolant. I've replaced the thermostat, radiator cap and radiator hoses.

Is it worth replacing the radiator and water pump? When I run the tractor without the radiator cap I see slight ripples in the top of the radiator. Does this indicate full flow? How rapidly should the water be moving? Also, so far I haven't seen any bubbles in the coolant. Which I'm hoping is a good sign.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Any luck? I have 1972 Ford 4000 3-Cyl gas with the exact same problem. I flushed the radiator, which seems to have decent flow (thought it's pretty old and some of the fins are bent). The tractor starts up fine, usually blows one puff of white smoke until it gets going and then the exhaust is clear. After about 600' running my 4' roto-tiller or two bottom plow I start boiling over and loosing coolant. I've replaced the thermostat, radiator cap and radiator hoses.

Is it worth replacing the radiator and water pump? When I run the tractor without the radiator cap I see slight ripples in the top of the radiator. Does this indicate full flow? How rapidly should the water be moving? Also, so far I haven't seen any bubbles in the coolant. Which I'm hoping is a good sign.

There's a whole litany of possibilities for your problem.
When the thermostat is open you should see a lot of water coming into the radiator from the upper hose. if you don't, the impeller could be corroded away , the thermostat may not be open fully , or the lower hose can collapse at high revs and restrict flow.
Have you blow the air side of the radiator out? It can clog from chaff and dirt and restrict the cooling air flow. Are you using plain water as a coolant or 50/50 water antifreeze mix? if you're just using water, if the water is hard, then scale can clog the radiator passages and restrict coolant so that you're not getting enough cooling.
The radiator cap may not be holding pressure causing the water to boil off. Make sure the timing is correct (too retarded can cause overheating and too advanced can cause knocking and high tempertures) and too lean a fuel air ratio can cause higher gas tempertures.

You need to systematically check the things I've indicated til you find the root cause of the problem.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Most any radiator has a life span and that can be any time after about 10 years but especially after 20 years.

They do not have to leak but the cooling fins can break loose from the water tubes. If the tubes have become blocked then that can be an issue.

Replacing the thermostat is the first thing due to low labor and parts cost.

If I had the radiator off for cleaning or replacing I would consider doing the water pump since it is a relative low cost part and very easy to do with the raditor removed.

Get the radiator tested at a good rebuilder's shop.

 

[Soundguy]

flow test the rad. it should open flow a 1/2" water hose top to bottom without overflowing at the top.