Ford 4610 trailer conundrum

[aczlan]

how much clearance is there between the tires and the fenders? Could you put the "dish" on the other side of the mounting locations on the rim? That looks like it would gain you 4" which would get you on the trailer.
I would not remove the ROPS it protects you from both sideways rollovers and reverse rollovers (pulling out a stump) but the fenders could probbaly be modified to fit if need be.

Aaron Z

 

[ETD66SS]

It's pretty common to flip the tires around for a haul to narrow them up - the treads are on backwards, but doesn't matter for just hauling it

Nice idea

Thing is, I'm not sure in order to do that, that I'd not have to not only flip the tires from one side to the other, but remove the carriage bolts, flip the centers, and remove the fenders.

I have no problems of reverse treads for hauling

This thread was meant to be more about what are my options with the rear wheels on the 4610, permenant modification or otherwise, as opposed to what kind of trailer to buy. I'm NOT buying a deck over, period

As far as the rops, I'd like to keep it yes, but not because I'm scared of tipping, but more for protection from the sun I used Ford 8n's all ther way up to a 3400 with loader without any ROPS while I was a kid and I am still alive.

I will say, that the current tracking width on this tractor seems way too wide. My brother owns a Ford 4500 backhoe from the 70's, and in no way are his tires this wide (Just a guess on my part). ****, if I measured the tracking on my Ford 575D TLB, I bet they are not as wide as this 4610.

Bottom line is, this tracking width seems excessive to me, and I was wondering if I can change it is all.

I know there will be tons of safety ppl coming into this thread telling me I'm gonna die, then after I die bolts of lightning will strike my corpse if I mess with these tires

I guess I need to find out, if a 4610 tractor sold with 14.9 x 28 tires, no rops, what the outside dimension of the tires would be. That I guess would be the theoretical min tracking distance I'd want to use.

EDIT: As I said, before I bought new rubber, I wish I would have looked for 14.9 x 28 tires & rims...

 

[aczlan]

Here is what I am thinking, pull the carriage bolts and move the "dish" to where the arrows are pointing. That should gain you 2-3 inches per side without hitting the fender (and you can pull it if it does).



Aaron Z

 

[ETD66SS]

I'll try that on one tire tonight.

I think it will hit the fender though...

 

[aczlan]

I'll try that on one tire tonight.
I think it will hit the fender though...

Measure the clearance and compare that to the width of the mount & the thickness of the center "dish" that will tell you if it will fit.

Aaron Z

 

[dsgsr]

Well, If I buy a trailer that is 82" between fenders, I have no inches left And would probably rub the tires everytime I load/unload.

I don't really need the rops, my land is flat. The canopy is nice for working in the sun however...

I just bought the tires $1100. I think I would get screwed in any trade deal...

Many are suggesting a deckover trailer, but I don't want one of those, first off they are about $1000 more, and the CG of the load is too high for my liking.

I really wanted the skidsteer trailer, and that deck is 3" lower than the equipment trailer, but only 78" between fenders.

I think what I'm going to do is leave the rops on, remove the fenders and flip the rim centers, then see what that gets me as far as width.

If that works, I can make up my own sheetmetal fenders, similar to these:

The tire problem is why I bought this Tralier.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/private-party-ads/235625-6-ton-equipment-trailer.html

Now I'm selling it and have bought A heavier deckover for my M-59.


David

 

[dkizerian]

I'll try that on one tire tonight.

I think it will hit the fender though...

It looked like there was a bit of room between your fender and the ROPS, maybe that'll be enough to get everything where you want/need it, then ad fenders that attach to the ROPS above the tire?

 

[ETD66SS]

It looked like there was a bit of room between your fender and the ROPS, maybe that'll be enough to get everything where you want/need it, then ad fenders that attach to the ROPS above the tire?

BINGO!

If I remove the bracket on the fender, and drill & tap holes into the ROPS, I can mount the fender right to the ROPS and it will clear.

I moved the center to the outside of the carriage bolt brackets on the rim, and I was hitting the fender bracket, with about 1/2" interference:

Pushing the lift arm all the way towards the tire, it clears by about 1 inch, good enough for me:

I'll remove the fender mounting bracket, and mount the fender to the ROPS, this will give me about 1" of clearance between the tire & fender:

It moved the tire in about 2", so I'll be able to get the outside tire dimension to 78"

The skidsteer trailer I want is 78" between frame rails, and I still believe it's 82" between fenders, so that will give me just enough clearance.

I may flip the center so that the rounded part is outward, and put the center back behind the brackets on the rim, I think this will give me the same offset as I have currently, but I think in looks better if the rounded part of the center is facing outward.

 

[bcp]

I've seen lots of tricycle tractors with drawbars on the front for towing with a truck. It was common with farmers who worked on fields several miles apart. They traveled at tractor speeds between fields but always had both the tractor and truck with them that way.

Some did it the opposite way--the tractor pulled the truck.

Bruce

 

[Ford tractor]

If only 4 miles and two times a year I would drive it. By the time you hook up a trailer, load, and secure you could have jumped on and driven most of the distance in that time.

What is the wright of your tractor and heaviest implement you would transport? Seems an 8000 lb trailer may be under rated for the haul

BINGO!

The skidsteer trailer I want is 78" between frame rails, and I still believe it's 82" between fenders, so that will give me just enough clearance.
.

The trailer you posted about is about 2200 pounds. That leaves 5800 pounds for the tractor. The dry ship weight of the 4610 is just over 5100 pounds. Field ready ballasted it is OVER 8000 pounds.
That 8000 pound trailer would limit you to never hauling anything but the bare tractor -- no attachment. Plus (more importantly), you would need to be hyper aware of where on the trailer the tractor was positioned to avoid overloading one of the trailers axles!

Your first DOT enforcement stop will make the cost of the correctly sized trailer look cheap.

http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2793&context=tractormuseumlit