Ford 555C making oil / Fuel control?

[EddieWalker]

Merry Christmas!!!

Honestly, I think $380 is a bargain. I'm just hoping that if and when I need the same thing done, that it only costs me that much. Of course, I just paid $930 for a new fan and bracket for my dozer, so my brain is already scrambled.

Lets see some pics of it back in action.

Eddie

 

[RickB]

Aye,, Carumba. got the call from the shop, my pump is ready.

Said it definetely needed to be done, all the seals were hard, dry and breaking.

Then he said, it would be $380. OUCH

Guess when you play with the big boys. I guess there is my christmass present.

$380 for a Lucas/CAV rotary pump overhaul would be a bargain in my neck of the woods. Double that is more the norm, and a head and rotor replacement more than that.

 

[AlanB]

$380 for a Lucas/CAV rotary pump overhaul would be a bargain in my neck of the woods. Double that is more the norm, and a head and rotor replacement more than that.

Thanks guys, I have a feeling it took an extra part or two like the head and rotor that you mentioned Rick, and that is where the extra money came into play. The big deal for us is here at year end where landscaping and lawncare is slow (actually we have plenty of work, just cannot do it due to weather) an extra unexpected couple hundered hurts.

Don't even want to think what our workmans comp bill adjustment is going to be this year.

I will smile as I pay though, as I think the man is honest, and two folks I trust said to use him. I will also try and wheedle in a little time / training / education while I am there.

Rick, more pointed question, everyone I speak with says I cannot get it out of time as it is keyed to the gear.

Now the gear has not come out of the engine (and I do not think that you could jump a tooth without it coming out) I believe you would have to pull off the entire front cover assembly to pull that gear, so my current plan is to just slide the pump back into place, realign my "timing" marks (mine was on 0) and try it.

Does that sound like the right approach, or should I be trying to verify that the gear train is appropriately timed?

I have been very careful to not shift the gear, although I did gingerly pull it back to satisfy myself that it would not fall out of sync on it's own.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[RickB]

If you got a head and rotor R&R for $380, I want the contact info for that shop.

 

[AlanB]

Went and picked it up this evening. We talked for a bit, he had the seals out of the nose on the bench saved to show me. Hard as a rock and brittle, much like the o-rings I had changed in the top, he said that would be where the fuel was getting into my crankcase from.

He said he changed all the little gaskets seals etc. he also replaced the "primary pump blades and Liner" (not sure if that is a head and rotor? probably not)

We talked for quite a while, and I learned several things, he put an injector nozzle on the testor for me and showed me how it worked, and what it looked like, and we disassembled a couple to show me how they adjust / relap etc. REALLY interesting guy, and seemed genuinely interested in sharing his knowledge.

Another interesting off the wall tidbit he showed me, we got talking about mold, and he said, if you spray it down with apple cider vinegar it would kill off the mold and keep it away for 2+ years. That one I need to try.

Anyway, as we got around too it, I said I was a bit suprised by the cost, as I thought it was going to be $250 or so max from our previous discussion, he looked at the bill and made it $290. I told him that I was not so much questioning the bill, and would happily pay whatever he said, and truly felt he was treating me right at whatever price as it was funny but saw a fuel control there with my buddy's name (who reccomended him to me) on the floor.

Anyway, he said $290 would be fine, so that is what I paid, got instructions on reinstallation and bleeding and an invite back to spend some more time there, and if I had any difficulties to contact him and he would help me get it straight.

Fine man, it is nice to do business with folks like that.

Rick, PM on the way, not sure if it would be advertising or not to post it here.

 

[EddieWalker]

Another interesting off the wall tidbit he showed me, we got talking about mold, and he said, if you spray it down with apple cider vinegar it would kill off the mold and keep it away for 2+ years. That one I need to try.

Alan,

What mold? On your tractor? In your fuel? or just regular mold that grows on wet areas on and around the home?

I use exterior bleach or swimming pool shock. Both kill on contact and make the surface impossible for mold and mildew to grow again unitl it washes away.

If you're talking about inside the house, like a bathroom, I also use bleach to kill it, then I paint with exterior paint. The extorior paint is harder and does a better job of not allowing moisture into it for the mold to grow again.

Eddie

 

[AlanB]

Alan,

What mold? On your tractor? In your fuel? or just regular mold that grows on wet areas on and around the home?

I use exterior bleach or swimming pool shock. Both kill on contact and make the surface impossible for mold and mildew to grow again unitl it washes away.

If you're talking about inside the house, like a bathroom, I also use bleach to kill it, then I paint with exterior paint. The extorior paint is harder and does a better job of not allowing moisture into it for the mold to grow again.

Eddie

Oooppsss, sorry I did not make that clearer. Yes, mold on the house type mold. We were talking about the house I was selling and the topic of mold came up and how I just paid to have it treated with Timbor (I think) and it is a pretty common problem in our area that the north side of a house will have mold on it, particularly if it is shady.

Calcium hypochlorite (bleach, pool chlorine etc.) works well, but is a fairly nasty chemical and in an application such as under an entire house in a crawlspace not a good thing to apply. While effective, some of the other problems that it creates can be bad.

Apple cider vinegar though, I can't think of what hazards it will have, but I believe them to be minimal.

 

[AlanB]

Yeee haaaa, SWMBO was out building a fireplace for a customer today, kids were out and about so I got too play with Lil.

It was COLD (at least to me) just above freezing and it made for a couple slow times trying to get the rubber lines back together.

When I started working I grabbed my little magnetic tray I had stuck the bolts in and set in the cab. It had filled with water and was a block of ice. Oppppppppps.

All in all it went well. Everything slid together and felt right, nothing extra broke, changed the oil again, filled the radiator and drove the welder golf cart down to power a battery charger. Nothing like trying to bleed fuel, get a diesel started in really cold (for this part of the country) weather.

Anyway, cranked her through a couple of 15 second cycles with the lines cracked off the output of the head. Tightened them up, Cranked through another couple 15 second cycles and the battery was dragging.

Took a break letting the charger recoup a bit on the battery, came back and about 5 seconds of cranking she hit.

Man, that was a nice feeling.

Ran her for about an hour or so this afternoon moving around some piles of clay and everything looked good each time I checked.

Have to top off oil and antifreeze next time I go to use her, and make sure I don't have other leaks or problems, but so far all indications are positive.

Thanks to all for the input and suggestions.

Need to spend some time looking at my PS pump with Hanna running and see if I can ID where I am loosing fluid on that side.

Hope it all works well, it is sure nice to have it running again, I know it is a mindgame thing but it bothers me when my equipment is not operational.

 

[EddieWalker]

Alan,

Congrats, it's always nice to hear about a repair that comes out well.

Eddie

 

[cbturf]

Eddie,
I hope you have a good sense of humor...have you considered adding my top signature line to your signature?