Ford 7610 running hot

[tex105]

Since replacing the radiator cap, my 7610 will run hot, especially when bush hogging. The old cap came off in 4 pieces, hence the new cap. In looking at replacing the new cap, I'm finding a 7psi, which is what I have, and a 13psi cap. I don't know which psi the original cap was. The question is, if I change to 13psi, will the higher psi hurt anything if it's supposed to be the 7psi? In case it's not the new cap making it get hot, I've changed the thermostat and flushed the radiator.

 

[Turbys_1700]

Have you tried the 7 psi cap out? Just for precaution is your radiator clean. What are you doing with the tractor? I assume bush hogging.

 

[tex105]

I'm currently using the 7psi cap. If I use the 13psi, will the higher psi hurt anything? I'm assuming it makes the pressure higher. I've flushed the radiator and it's not blocked by debris on the outside. I can bush hog for about 1/2 hour before the temperature gauge needle is at the red line.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I don't see why a 13 psi cap would harm anything. Has this just started happening or is it reoccurring? What size hog are you using and how many hours on the tractor? Any blow-by? Just trying to get more info. I had a 4610 and it was a good tractor. I like the 10 series Fords.

 

[tex105]

Never had any issues until I had to replace the cap. No idea about the hours. We've had it about 20 years. I'm not sure what you mean by blow-by.

 

[tex105]

Are you suggesting a new radiator?

 

[CincyFlyer]

When you say "run hot", do you mean in the red at the top of the temperature gauge? If below the red, it's OK. Is it boiling out coolant? Is the system properly bled (some require extra steps, or you get big air bubles ... and overheating!) You may want to get an actual temperature reading, to make sure that your temp sensor isn't wonky, as well.

 

[Turbys_1700]

Never had any issues until I had to replace the cap. No idea about the hours. We've had it about 20 years. I'm not sure what you mean by blow-by.

Look at the underside of your tractor for a tube that will disperse any blow by exhaust. Most older tractors will have some which is normal and indicates some engine wear. A little is OK. An excessive amount indicated worn rings.

If I was in your shoes I would try the 13 psi cap. If it runs hot you may need to get your radiator rodded out by a radiator shop. If that doesn't fix it check for water in your oil indicating a blown head gasket. If the radiator is OK and it still runs hot I have no clue unless you have upgraded bush hogs or it was just an extremely hotter than normal day.

 

[tex105]

The temperature gauge starts out in the green and slowly drops down to the red. When it gets to the red line, I stop....about 1/2 hour of bush hogging. How do you bleed the system?

 

[Turbys_1700]

Farmall B A Radiator Flush and Refill Cooling System Maintenance Vintage Antique Tractor - YouTube

Coolant Replacement Flush on the Massey Ferguson 122 Tractor - YouTube

FLUSHING COOLANT IN THE JD 2 - YouTube

 

[searcyfarms]

first, how long have you had this tractor and have you always been using the same bhog and mowing the same area at the same time of year with the same height and in the same gear in the same temps etc.............there are so many variables outside of this cap we need to get this identified

something has obviously changed and a radiator cap loose or sealed wouldn't cause overheating all by itself

when was the last time you washed out the radiator front/back to get all the seeds/weeds/leaves/grasshoppers/junk in the fins of the radiator - how about the fan belt is it turning good, anything that might have changed with fan - belt get antifreeze/oil on it and it wont turn good?

I think there is something else going on here not just a radiator cap.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Possible causes:

Most Likely:

Failed closed thermostat, clogged air side of radiator, clogged coolant passages in radiator, loose fan belt, eroded water pump impeller, collapsed lower rad hose at off-idle engine rpm, failed rad cap (you replaced that), clogged air filter.

Less probable- excessive load on tractor (not likely since you are hogging), excess fuel in cylinders (leaking injectors failure in IP), bad gauge.


Check these out systematically and you should find the problem

 

[Texasmark]

I've seen the 13# in related tractor manuals. Published data says that compressing the fluid increases not only the boiling point but also improves circulation....not sure of the mechanism here but it's in published data.

On Heat, get out your Harbor Freight Non-Contact Infrared thermometer ($20-30 bucks depending on if sale price or normal). Check your thermostat tem at the right front of the head, just behind the radiator fan (air blast) shield for a reasonable number below 195F....dependent on the T stat temp installed....my 188 stat runs around 195 after working. Then drop down on the left side and read the bottom radiator tank temp. Mine runs around 105-110 after running.

If the top is hot and the bottom of the radiator is cool, problem in the engine. If top is above average and bottom is hot also, clogged radiator, internally or externally.

That's how I would look at it.

 

[Texasmark]

The higher pressure tends to reduce or eliminate cavitation.
This becomes more of a problem as RPM increases.

Makes sense. Since air compresses, bubbles get smaller and have less effect. Thanks.

 

[CincyFlyer]

Makes sense. Since air compresses, bubbles get smaller and have less effect. Thanks.

Remember that cavitation bubbles don't contain air! They start out as a vacuum void and the may be filled with (in this case) coolant that has vaporized.

 

[Texasmark]

Remember that cavitation bubbles don't contain air! They start out as a vacuum void and the may be filled with (in this case) coolant that has vaporized.

Vapor of any kind has wide separation between molecules, allowing for compression once you overcome the static resistance of the medium.