Ford 801 Stalling problem

Beamer63 · May 31, 2006

I have a 1963 Ford 801 Powermaster. It likes to stall when it gets hot. I am thinking vapor lock but am not sure. If it is I am trying to figure out a way to fix it. The gas line does run directly next to the engine. Any help would be appreciated.

Beamer63 · May 31, 2006

I have a 1963 Ford 801 Powermaster. It likes to stall when it gets hot. I am thinking vapor lock but am not sure. If it is I am trying to figure out a way to fix it. The gas line does run directly next to the engine. Any help would be appreciated.

Soundguy · May 31, 2006

Next time it stalls, pull the plug on the carb bowl and see if there is fuel. Also check spark.

Might be tank vacume too.

Soundguy

Soundguy · May 31, 2006

Next time it stalls, pull the plug on the carb bowl and see if there is fuel. Also check spark.

Might be tank vacume too.

Soundguy

JKNY · Jun 3, 2006

Do as Soundguy says, crack carb bowl drain, if no fuel, crack fuel tank cap, listen for pressuer sound, that could be vaporlock.Also ck sediment bowl an d screen and strainer in fuel tank tap for being plugged. If problem is no spark, could be coil or condensor gone bad. Will tractor readily restart or does it need to set. Does problem occur more in hot weather,under heavy load and low tank fuel level,these conditions favor vaporlock/fuel "boiling" in Fords of this vintage.Is the guard between the muffler and fuel tank intact,and is fuel line run above this guard? If vapor lock is a persistant problem you mauy need to reroute fuel line and extend it out a little further from the muffler. HTH JK

JKNY · Jun 3, 2006

Do as Soundguy says, crack carb bowl drain, if no fuel, crack fuel tank cap, listen for pressuer sound, that could be vaporlock.Also ck sediment bowl an d screen and strainer in fuel tank tap for being plugged. If problem is no spark, could be coil or condensor gone bad. Will tractor readily restart or does it need to set. Does problem occur more in hot weather,under heavy load and low tank fuel level,these conditions favor vaporlock/fuel "boiling" in Fords of this vintage.Is the guard between the muffler and fuel tank intact,and is fuel line run above this guard? If vapor lock is a persistant problem you mauy need to reroute fuel line and extend it out a little further from the muffler. HTH JK

merlehanna · Mar 17, 2012

Mine has starting doing the same thing, you can open the fuel screening bowl and gas will pour in and it will start right back up but after a few minutes its like it is running out of gas and stalls. Just rebuilt the carb on it. What are the intitial settings for the carb? Does anyone know? I really enjoy using my tractor and have lots of work to do but this has put everything on hold. :-(

BungeeII · Mar 17, 2012

I usually snug them up and back 'em out about 1 1/2 turns.

I struggled with my 800 for a long time, going as far as taking the screen out and replacing the fuel line. Finally, I put a little air to the fuel line to blow it out and sure enough, there must have been something (possibly the o-ring) blocking the shut-off valve. I eventually pulled the tank and replaced the whole valve/screen.

Cleaning the air filter and oiling it properly also helps.

strum456 · Mar 17, 2012

I have the same problem with my 841. I rebuilt the carb and it still does it. When mine shuts down there is no fuel in the float bowl. If I tap on the carb with a hammer handle, then it works again. I am 99% sure the problem is a sticking float. I just don't know how to fix it. The float moves fine. It doesn't leak. It's adjusted properly. I even put grease on the carb body and installed the float and rattled it around to make sure it didn't contact any where. I am at a loss on this thing.

Not to hijack, but maybe we have the same problem.

Soundguy · Mar 17, 2012

if the float itself ain't hanging, but it goes dry, and a rap fixes it, then you KNOW the needle is hanging.

might be a bit of grit, or varnish..

strum456 · Mar 17, 2012

My theory is that the seat (which is new) has a slight burr that is causing the needle to stick. Have you ever seen this happen? I am afraid of doing anything to the seat because I might make it worse.

Soundguy · Mar 18, 2012

the contact patch from the needle to seat is very small, and the contact angle is such that I doubt a bur could cause it to hang.

ps. you have a choice of needles.. the new ones are viton tipped.. etc.

when i see a sticky needle and it's not the flaot hanging on the side of the carb, the next thing I look at is the hinge and hinge pin area, and then I remove the needle and clean the bore the needle rides in.

Soundguy · Mar 18, 2012

ps.. a bit of lapping compound on an old needle or a toothpic can help polis a seat IF you thought it was an issue.

toothpaste is an awfully lot like lapping compound.. if you don't have any

it's not something I normall have to do though..

good luck

merlehanna · Mar 18, 2012

Ty Bungee, will set the screw there and see how it goes,I was advised to set the mainsteam screw at 3 turns. and Strum,,dont worry about hijacking, it sounds like we may be having identical problems. After i rebuilt the carb, I also replaced the shut off valve to the tank because it started leaking around the screw so i will blow air back thru the line in reverse to see if it is blocked ..Sound, will the float sticking let it fill back with gas if it is let sit for a minute or two? When it stalls, I unscrew the sediment bowl a little till i see gas coming out and after i tighten it, the tractor will start right back and run fro a few minutes and then stall again..

merlehanna · Mar 18, 2012

oh,,,btw,,,u guys rock! Thanks for all the quick advice!! Will try these tips and advise on how it goes

strum456 · Mar 18, 2012

The float can definitely cause the problem you describe. Like SG said before, you really need to pull the float bowl drain right after it shuts down and see if gas comes out. If not, we are in the same boat. :mur:

Soundguy: Good tip about lapping compound. I never gave that a thought. When I have the carb apart, it doesn't take much to make the needle stick. If I just push the float against it lightly and then lower the float, the needle stays. I dont think it is dirt or varnish. I've had this thing apart no less than 6 times, and I've cleaned it every time.

Oh, and it is a new Viton tipped needle.

strum456 · Mar 18, 2012

Oh, another thing....the last thing I would unscrew is the sediment bulb. I'm not bashing you at all....just trying to save you some :mur:. Those quark gaskets aren't the easiest to get to seal all the time. You might have been lucky so far, but I wouldn't push it

Yes, it is designed to be removed and cleaned. They just aren't designed to be put back on and not leak (LOL).

merlehanna · Mar 18, 2012

Ty Strum,,,gonna go see what i can accomplish.....and I dont wanna push my luck on the other lol

BungeeII · Mar 18, 2012

Since you've already changed out the shut-off valve, I would NOT blow anything back into the tank. If you do blow out the line, separate from the shut-off first. No sense in blowing garbage into a new valve/screen assembly.