Ford 8N having trouble starting -- many troubleshooting steps take -- suggestions?

[sd455dan]

Pay attention there is soon going to be a cheap used Ford tractor available. Not free for the taking,but some money to boot for hauling it off.

I seriously doubt that, eventually even if by the school of hard knocks, it will get fixxed. We all learn by doing and many times mistakes are some of the best teachers. Also It's an old Ford (there are no bad ones -just some that need help), what better tractor to learn with ??

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. wrong test with the test lamp. your test was a parallel test and showed what I would expect in a normal situation.. key has power all the time and ground is ground.

I told you to hookup the test lamp IN LINE and then crank the engine over.

ie pull the wire to the coil.. hook the test lamp clip to that.. ten probe the top of the coil... turn key on.. then crank tractor over... lamp should blink

are you running the oem style resistor on the dash and NO other resistors?

I see you are also running a 2.5 ohm coil now.

when you give her throttle does she take it or stumble?

on the alt.. if you have #2 looped to charge, and #1 thru a 194 bulb to battery+ .. key on and lamp glows, but alt necver charges even at high idle.. then bypass the bulb and go bat hot to #1 for an instant while running.

if still nothing.. bad alt.

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

OK -- I will re-do the lamp test tonight.

No other resistors -- only the OEM style resistor. Here is a picture when looking through the battery access cover to the back of the dash. I am tempted to label these connections, take them off, and try to hit the wire ends and the resistor connectors with a wire brush and clean them up a bit.

On the throttle question -- it's weird. After starting her yesterday at low throttle, where she was stumbling, if I moved the throttle too fast she stumbled but if I moved it slow she would take it. Then after sitting there at high throttle it seemed to clear up a bit (e.g. in the video where I was pulling the plug wires off for the second time at full throttle).

EDIT: If you want me to try a throttle test just let me know and I will record whatever steps you want me to take.

 

[DJ54]

Taking a guess here on the throttle, but just checked you temps with the weather service... Noticing the snow in all the pics, and temps probably in the upper 20's to low 30's, unless the engine is warmed up some, to vaporize the fuel better, it will sputter opening the throttle too fast.

When it's in the 20's here, I have to leave the choke on my 3 cyl. 2000 @ about 1/2 - 1/3 for a bit, then it progressively runs better. Just keep bumping the choke in until it's warmed up, and I'm good to go.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. i'd enrich the mainjet.. and many times they want a lil choke inthe cold for a bit.

if it takes throttle with a lil choke.. DO enrich the main jet.

DO clena up the electrical connections.. and get that ground wire fromt he bat onto some place it can do some good.. not rusty sheet metal...

 

[GPintheMitten]

I can't wait to try and resurrect my old 2N, when I get my shop done. We'll have a field day with that one.
It sat outside for years. (This is one that owned 30 years ago and sold to my SIL about 10 years ago and recently liberated it).

Now back to the thread...

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

OK, I'll enrich the main jet while it is running and record any difference. Before this tractor crapped the bed it started and ran fine in -10 degrees. This was a few months ago so I know she has it in her.

I'll also clean up the electrical connections. Thanks.

 

[8n Bruce]

I SECOND & THIRD the let run it up to temp first before we spend time else were. Mine pops with quick throttle when cold & yours could be fouled up from cranking & no start ( at least 45 yrs. experience). I am a cold weather worshiper(hate the BUGS). :thumbsup::2cents:

 

[Soundguy]

keep us posted

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Thanks guys. I give it another go tonight -- having daylight later in the day is really helping now.

Below is the information I have for adjusting the carb. Anything you all want to add to this? My process for testing would be to start her up and let her idle for a while at full throttle (or whatever throttle I can get to where it doesn't stumble too bad) .

From here: 8N Running Rich? - Yesterday's Tractor Co. (#664587)

The Main Power Adjust needle is CW for reducing fuel (leaner) and if fully functional will shut off all carb fuel (even idle) when screwed in fully CW to it's seat. This leans it to point that engine dies. You say that this results in backfire. Is that correct? Just before all the way in (so lean it just barely runs, I don't see that you should observe a rich-condition-black-smoke at this point. Do you see that at this point?

The Idle Mixture Adjust needle is just the opposite, that is CCW leans the idle mixture. That is because the Idle Mixture Adjust needle controls AIR, unlike the Main Power, which controls fuel. More AIR(same fuel)=leaner idle mixture. CCW=more air=leaner.

Main Power needle is generally not very sensitive except near fully closed (fullCW), whereas the Idle Mixture needle is more sensitive in my experience.

And here are a few more tips...

Both Ford and Marvel/Schebler say to set both the side-pointing idlemix {Idle Mixture Adjustment Needle} and the down-pointing mainjet{Main Power Mixture adjustment Needle} to 1-turn as a starting point. I set the down-pointing mainjet{Main Power Mixture adjustment Needle}to 1-1/2 turns and don't fool w/ it anymore.

Then adjust the side-pointing idlemix {Idle Mixture Adjustment Needle} for fastest idle; not the smoothest idle. Next, adjust the behind the carb idle-speed set-screw for very slow 400-rpms idle. Do that idlemix{Idle Mixture Adjustment Needle} adjust for maximum idle at least 3-times.

Do it like this:

1. Adjust idle mix jet{Idle Mixture Adjustment Needle} until RPM increases

2. Adjust idle-mix set screw{idle-speed set-screw} until the engine nearly stops (as slow as you can get it unless you have a tach that tells you 400 rpm)

3. Grasp the rod between the carb & governor & twist/shake it slightly; the slop in these rods often stops the adjustment cam from moving.

Repeat steps 1 - 3 three times.

Remember the side-pointing idlemix{Idle Mixture Adjustment Needle} is out for lean, in for rich.

I've got 3 N's & all 3 idle at 350 - 400 rpms.