Ford loader mod and install on YM336D

[Domush]

I managed to find the exact spool valve at an online retailer, but it doesn't give much for info

 

[Car Doc]

I managed to find the exact spool valve at an online retailer, but it doesn't give much for info

PM one of those guys to speed it up cant hurt.

 

[Domush]

One step closer.. found a link to an image of the specs. It does indeed come open center by default, but I have to buy a replacement plug for PB, which is only $17, so not awful.

EDIT: Also found a PDF version of the specs and optional tidbits

So, as long as the rest of the loader and hoses are worth $330 I got my money's worth

 

[grainger12002]

my loader mounts look much like those of CarDocs,I have not forgotten just been working too much and have not had chance to get some pics...................

More to follow..

Preston

 

[scrappy isb67]

From my own experience of building a loader an a FX24
From my own experience from building a loader for my FX24D, it is critical to keep the bucket as close to the front of the tractor as possible. Shorten the bucket arms and adjust the angle at the attachment points to the lift arms. Keeping the center of gravity close and the weight as close to the front axles will prolong their lives.

Don't forget to build it so it is easy to remove. Look at the newer FELs to see how they do it. Easier to mount/dismount the more flexible will be its use.

If I think of any other things, I will respond.

I agree about keeping the bucket as close to the frontend of the tractor BUT I would not try to shorten the arms of the beem unless it was necessary/ I would first try to keep the frame masts as far rearward as practical. by shortening the boom you reduce overall lift height and reach.

 

[Domush]

Update on the loader situation. I decided not to use that loader, as I wasn't keen on yet another project. I'll likely just build a carry-all and call it good. There isn't much I need a FEL for on my little property. The good news is.. I kept the valves and hoses, so I now have a 3 spool valve for rear remotes! :thumbsup: .. Now to figure out what to use rear remotes for..

 

[clemsonfor]

Did you loose on the deal? Or did you at least come close to recouping your purchase price and just loose the gas $ and time to get it?

 

[Domush]

Did you loose on the deal? Or did you at least come close to recouping your purchase price and just loose the gas $ and time to get it?

I broke even on expense, the time didn't matter to me, it was a nice drive. I gained on keeping the valve and hoses. Overall worth it for me and the buyer was thrilled, too. Win-win

Sent from my SCH-I500 using TractorByNet

 

[Car Doc]

Update on the loader situation. I decided not to use that loader, as I wasn't keen on yet another project. I'll likely just build a carry-all and call it good. There isn't much I need a FEL for on my little property. The good news is.. I kept the valves and hoses, so I now have a 3 spool valve for rear remotes! :thumbsup: .. Now to figure out what to use rear remotes for..

3 pt log splitter, tilt and turn back blade, hyd controlled land leveler, back hoe, hydraulic PHD.....lots of things possible I cant even think about all of them good idea you kept them just in case haha!

 

[LD1]

I just saw this thread and noticed you are ditching the loader but keeping the valve.

It is most likely an open center valve if it was on a loader. Because a closed center valve would build and hold pressure when you werent using the loader and keeping the pump under load all of the time. Open center allows the oil to continue to circulate through the valve with little to no pressure until you hit a valve and that diverts the fluid to go do "work".

I would also "highly" suggest getting rid of those sch40 water pipe fittings. Those have no business in a hydraulic application. Get steel fittings MADE FOR HYDRAULICS.