"Freshening up" a 16ft trailer??

[kebo]

I have a Diamond Clipper 16ft landscape trailer (manufactured in Texas) that's in dire need of a paint job. The rust has gotten to be a real eyesore, and I'm about to get my truck re-painted soon so I'm probably going to "freshen up" the trailer too so it will all look nice. I have some questions about this.....

1) Anyone ever upgraded a 16ft trailer from PT wood deck to a diamond tread sheet metal deck?? The wooden 2x8 deck is fastened onto metal joists that are on 2ft centers. That seems to be fine for the 2x8's, but if I went with sheet metal decking, what thickness would I need? Would I need to add more joists to support the deck? Would the metal deck cost more than replacing the 2x8x16 wooden deck? Since I don't have a welder, there would be an additional cost to get someone to weld it on.


2) If I paint it myself, what would be the next best way to remove the rust without a sandblaster? I've used the wire brush wheels in my cordless drill before on small refinish projects, but I'm thinking a small wire brush wheel would take forever to go over the whole trailer frame. Plus, my trailer has 12" sides that are filled in with expanded metal, every bit of it rusty too.

This will be a backyard project as I don't yet have a shop to do it in. I do have a compressor and could borrow a spray gun from a friend to shoot some primer & black paint on it. That would be the easy part of it. This will obviously be a warmer weather project so I have time to look at all the options. Thanks for your comments.

 

[leveller]

I am about to do a rebuild on my 16' bumper hitch car hauler. I am going to replace the deck (2x8's) and sandblast and paint the frame. I am putting a wood deck back on. If you have to hire someone to do the welding, and buy the steel, wood will be much cheaper. I think it would be worth your while to pay to have it sandblasted. If you wire brush it, it will take you many hours and you will never remove all the rust, and the rust will return shortly. Sandblasting may cost a couple of hundred dollars, but the new paint job should last a long time and it will save you many hours of hard, dirty work. Just my opinion, Greg

 

[bigdad]

Humble opinion only......

I'd go with the PT Wood since you don't cut/weld and, have you priced steel? Diamond plate at that?

Considering that the trailer is used and in need of some serious prepping and painting, I would invest in a good 4 1/2 side grinder, a couple of twisted cup wire wheels for it, and a gallon of your favorite color of Rustoleum. Oh yes, a couple of brushes.

Don't for get to use eye protection for those wire brushes as they can stir up some serious stuff. Also wear one of those nose-mouth masks for the same reason.

Actually the sandblasting sounds pretty good.
We want to see pictures whatever you come up with and good luck.

BD

 

[Egon]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/157838-refurbishing-trailer.html


My trailer got a work over last summer. I'd suggest a needle scaler over the sand blaster unless you get a pretty decent sandblaster.

And definitely wear goggles if you use a wire brush. I spent several weeks before all the little pieces got picked out of my clothes and scarred old hide!

 

[kebo]

I already have a side grinder, just don't have a shop to put it in. As for the steel decking, I was guessing that it probably would cost more to change it over to metal so I think I'm going to stay with wood. I already have a skilsaw & drills!

Will look at the needle scaler, I haven't used one of those before. And yes, I always wear eye protection and usually hearing protection as well when working with grinding wheels and such. Now just need to wait for Spring to get here so I can get started on it. I'll be sure and put up some "before and after" pic's too! Thanks for the comments.

 

[Arky217]

I just finished redoing a 16' tandem trailer that I recently bought.
The trailer is only 3 years old, but the untreated 2x8s were completely rotten and the rust underneath them was very thick.
After removing the rotten boards, I had to use a regular grinding wheel on an angle grinder to remove the rust; the rust was so deep, a grinding flap was just too slow. After the rust removal, I added an extra joist between each of the existing joists to have a maximum joist spacing of 16". After a Navel Jelly application to help get the rust out of the pits, I primed all the bare metal. After a few days, I painted the whole trailer with Rustoleum paint from Ace hardware. I then replaced the bed with treated 2x10s using stainless steel carriage bolts.
I've got a better than new trailer now, what with the extra joist reinforcement and the treated 2x10s.
Trailer cost $600, 2x10s on sale for $120, $80 in metal, for a total of $800.

When buying a new trailer, watch out for unpainted metal under the bed and for untreated boards; not a good combination.

Arky

 

[firefighter jim]

The only way to really do a thorough job is to have it completely sandblasted. You'll be screwing around till the cows come home using the wire brush/grinder method. Sandblasting will get in all the nooks and crannies where other methods will not. I've done many restoration projects in my day and sand or media blasting is the only way to go. Put a nice paint job on it and it will look brand new.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree, get it sandblasted. I could get it done for $150 cash here. As for the deck go back to PT lumber. To remove the old boards cut them out. To install the new ones cut to lenght and bend them in the middle by having one end in the cup and a 16" piece of 4x4 on one of the axles. Have a big buddy stand on the other end of the board then knockout the 4x4 with a sledge. I did 2 trailers last summer that way.


I would also look into having it Rhino Lined or getting some and doing it yourself.

Chris

 

[kebo]

Chris, thanks for the advice. I'm certain now I'll go back with PT lumber. I'm going to check around and see if I can find someone local who can sandblast it for me. I do have one question.... When you recommended Rhino Lining, is that for the deck once the new boards are installed on it?? Just want to make sure that's what you meant. IF so, I hadn't thought about that but it seems like a good idea!

 

[Diamondpilot]

I do have one question.... When you recommended Rhino Lining, is that for the deck once the new boards are installed on it?? Just want to make sure that's what you meant. IF so, I hadn't thought about that but it seems like a good idea!

No, I mean the frame. I had the fenders done on my tractor and plan on having a Bush Hog done. Not too bad for the fenders, $50 and the BH I was quoted at $75. It may cost $250 for a trailer but should not be any more and will last a life time. The trick will be getting it sandblasted then over to the Rhino place before it can rust. You will have to have everything setup. If they try to charge more it would be no deal but should be cheaper since they do not have to clean, prep, mask, ect.

The guy that does my sandblasting is a farmer who has a side operation. The hose must be 2" in diameter and he could knock out your trailer in 30 minutes.


Chris