Fridge Too Cold

[4570Man]

Does anyone make a gadget that will discount the power until the refrigerator warms back up to the specified amount? It would appear the cooling is working great and disconnecting the power when it gets too cold would prevent freezing and bandaid the problem.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I think you would burn out the compressor.

 

[Diggin It]

Seems like it's cycling OK again now. Maintaining between 5 and 10 degrees, defrosting as usual.

Maybe just a glitch. Maybe a warning of impending failure. Hate it whichever because now I have to pay more attention to it again.

 

[CobyRupert]

Maybe was an ice blockage that cleared itself on a defrost cycle and now good to go?

If it was a stuck contact, it’ll probably be back.

 

[Diggin It]

Back to about 5 below zero. Opened the freezer, moved some stuff around, opened the view port I had cut in the back panel years ago and found too much icing blocking stuff. It's been 90 plus with high humidity, so I'm not really surprised it hasn't been able to defrost properly.

Moved the stuff that needs to stay frozen over to the deep freezer. Going to try and let it defrost for an hour or two, then crank it back up and see what happens. Last service guy that was here to confirm the service warranty write off gassed it up one last time. Said he though the icing bit in that area indicated a slow freon leak. That top off has lasted 4 years or more, so it must be a very slow leak.

Any of you ever gas your own boxes? Some reading on the web seems to imply it really isn't difficult. The manifold set looks to be $100 or less and R134 is fairly cheap. I can post the model number and some pictures if it will help identify which ports to hook up to. LAST thing I want is a can popping open in my hand.

 

[CobyRupert]

...... found too much icing blocking stuff. It's been 90 plus with high humidity, so I'm not really surprised it hasn't been able to defrost properly.

Last service guy that was here to confirm the service warranty write off gassed it up one last time. Said he though the icing bit in that area indicated a slow freon leak. That top off has lasted 4 years or more, so it must be a very slow leak.

When the fridge goes to defrost mode the ice/water needs to drain to a pan on top of compressor where it evaporates. Many fridges have a nipple on drain hose that gets clogged and needs to be cut off.
Otherwise, melted defrosted ice just refreezes into an ice dam at coils.

 

[kenmac]

your unit should self defrost. I have never added any refrigerant to a refrigerator.
To do this, you have to add some type of saddle which will punch a hole in the lines. Those things tend to leak over time.

Another thing is, How much do you add ? Only way to properly add refrigerant, is to remove and weigh the entire charge back in

 

[Diggin It]

When the fridge goes to defrost mode the ice/water needs to drain to a pan on top of compressor where it evaporates. Many fridges have a nipple on drain hose that gets clogged and needs to be cut off.
Otherwise, melted defrosted ice just refreezes into an ice dam at coils.

It has that and it drains properly. There was water in the bottom pan when I checked yesterday. Again, according to the tech, they'll ice up around the end of the coils if gas gets a bit low, which is where I'm seeing the ice/frost, not at the drainage port.

your unit should self defrost. I have never added any refrigerant to a refrigerator.
To do this, you have to add some type of saddle which will punch a hole in the lines. Those things tend to leak over time.

Another thing is, How much do you add ? Only way to properly add refrigerant, is to remove and weigh the entire charge back in

The fittings are already there since the tech was able to check pressure and add gas that last time he was here. I'm just not sure which is the high or low side. How much? I'm guessing the manifold set will help with that, if it needs any at all and isn't beyond repair.

 

[CobyRupert]

They will also ice up if the weather has been humid.

 

[kenmac]

Well, how much is the problem. Gauges really don't tell you how much. Many HVAC units, and most appliances will recommend to weigh in the charge.

If that tech added some refrigerant, He most likely guessed and just shot a little in. The low side will be the suction side.

I have no idea which fittings he added. If he added the automotive type. the high side and low side will be different size.

If he added just standard schrader type valve. you can do this to find high and low side.

Connect your high side gauge to one port (schraded valve). With the compressor on note the pressure.
Disconnect your high side gauge and connect it to the other schrader valve (with compressor on) note the pressure
The lower pressure will be your low side port. so now you can connect your low side hose to the low side port and add as much as you want to add