Front end loader will not lift tires off the ground

[jinman]

If your lift arms fall or the bucket dumps by it self, it could be a number of things. One or more cyl seals bad, relief valve slightly open, valve spools worn and leaking.

Take some pressure readings around the tractor hyd and note the pressures.

J_J, I agree with everything you said except for the relief valve. On our tractors, there is no relief valve in the loader circuits when the joystick is centered. The joystick is between the loader and the relief valve. For it to be caused by the relief valve, the joystick and the relief valve would have to be defective.

Boomertc45: Here is a test that will eliminate the joystick as being the problem. First start the tractor and then lower the loader to the ground with the bucket flat. Now, disconnect both the lift arm hydraulic hoses at the quick connects. This causes a hydraulic lock in the lift cylinders. Leave the bucket curl/dump lines attached. Now roll the bucket down. If the arms go up, you just proved that the arm cylinders or at least one of them is bad. It only takes one bad cylinder to cause this problem since they are in parallel.
The arms should go up a bit, but that's it. If you dump the bucket quickly enough, it will probably lift the tires and then the front end will sink as the cylinders leak.

BTW: Our cylinders and joystick do seem to leak a bit on older tractors. Actually, I've seen some new ones that will allow the bucket to sag. Mine will sag about an inch per minute with a load, but in actual operation, I can correct any sag with the joystick and I never leave loads suspended for a long time. It's not a big issue. However, if your lift cylinders leak so badly that you can't lift the front tires, that problem needs attention.

 

[J_J]

Does your FEL have regen?

If it does have regen and is in the first position to the right, you might not have very much curl.

Some FEL valves have the regen to the far right, and in this position you will not have much lift.

Try using the power position to curl and see if you can lift the front end.

 

[Boomertc45]

Jinmann thanks for the tip. So I disconnected lift arm hoses @ quick connects then curled bucket. The lift arms go up all the way. Any other way to confirm which arm cylinder is bad?

J_J I'm in the process of buying some pressure gauges. I'm sure they will be of good use. As far as regen it's in 2nd position to the right.

 

[jinman]

Boomertc45, now, you'd have to isolate each cylinder to discover which is leaking. Actually, I would not rebuild only one cylinder. I'd do them both at the same time so they both start with new seals. The seal kits range from $32 to $75 depending on the cylinder manufacturer.

 

[Boomertc45]

Jinnman thanks for all the help. I'm trying to order seal kits for lift cylinders on my 16la fel. They are asking for a part # 8digit # located near base of cylinder. I'm looking all over cleaned everything up. The only number I can see stamped on the cylinder is 1301. Do I need to take this apart to find this #? Or you may know since you have a similar machine.

 

[jinman]

There is one hydraulic cylinder with the date code and part number at the base of the cylinder. This part has been discontinued, but they can still get seals for it. The other brand of cylinder has the date code stamped near the middle of the cylinder. As far as I know, it does not have the part number with the date code. It is manufactured by Ognibene in Italy and has the more expensive repair kit. Look carefully both places on your cylinder, but is sounds like you may have the Ognibene cylinder. They should have told you that since all this info comes from the New Holland parts manuals available online.

 

[crash325]

Originally you said the back hoe also seemed weak. If you have not tested the rear stalizers and the back hoe you may be chasing problems that you do not have.

At this point I think it may have cost less to have the dealer trouble shoot the whole system. Not spending money on "Maybe" solutions.

 

[Boomertc45]

Thanks for looking out crash, I said the backhoe felt weak too, but this is my first machine i ever owned and only for a few weeks. I used it some more it actually works good. The front tires issue is bothering me a lot still. I will repair them myself sometime this week and report back. Hopefully you are wrong. Lol.

BTW: It's only costing me $150 to repair the seals. The dealer wants $150 to tow it there 1 way. $300 total just to transport. I want to sell my f150 and get a sliverado 2500 turbo diesel and trailer so I can tow this thing myself.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks for looking out crash, I said the backhoe felt weak too, but this is my first machine i ever owned and only for a few weeks. I used it some more it actually works good. The front tires issue is bothering me a lot still. I will repair them myself sometime this week and report back. Hopefully you are wrong. Lol.

BTW: It's only costing me $150 to repair the seals. The dealer wants $150 to tow it there 1 way. $300 total just to transport. I want to sell my f150 and get a sliverado 2500 turbo diesel and trailer so I can tow this thing myself.

Can you pull the cylinders off and throw them in your pickup and take them to the dealer? No need to take the entire tractor.
They're not that hard to rebuild so you might want to consider doing them yourself.

 

[jinman]

Can you pull the cylinders off and throw them in your pickup and take them to the dealer? No need to take the entire tractor.
They're not that hard to rebuild so you might want to consider doing them yourself.

I agree Jerry. It sure seems to be easier and MUCH cheaper to pull the cylinders and take them to the dealer, even if you don't feel confident enough to attempt the job yourself.