Front tire removal questions

Andrew2019 · Nov 18, 2019

That was my plan. I have some ironwood planks that'll do the trick well.

4570Man · Nov 18, 2019

Removing a tire and crawling under something aren’t even close to the same. You’re probably endangering yourself more to place the jack stand vs just pulling off the tire. I’d lift up the tractor with the loader and pull the lug nuts with my battery impact and then put a 6x6 under it and let it back down. I’ve done exactly that a few times. I’ve removed rear tires by lifting it with a backhoe stabilizer too. Now anything I’m crawling under gets proper support. Either wood blocks or beefy jack stands. I won’t use dinky jack stands or the drive on ramps.

Smokeydog · Nov 19, 2019

Tube to fix a car tire yes, tractor no. I have fixed and preventive a lot of slow leaks in equipment tires with slime leak sealant from tractor supply. $20/gallon. Hay rakes, bailer, trailers, manure spreader, hand carts, atvs and tractors. For the newest two tractor loader front tires used bulletproof sealant from Gemplers. No need to remove wheels to install. Do use loader to take the weight off the tires while installing the sealant. Gallon jugs have their own pump. Cheaper than tubes, better protection, less down time and still can plug a tubeless tire if needed. Nothing kills a day worse than having to fix or replace a tire.

dj1701 · Nov 22, 2019

T for tight always worked for me, however I understand why the manufactures but the info into the service manual. LOL:laughing:

fried1765 · Nov 22, 2019

4570Man said:
Removing a tire and crawling under something aren’t even close to the same. You’re probably endangering yourself more to place the jack stand vs just pulling off the tire. I’d lift up the tractor with the loader and pull the lug nuts with my battery impact and then put a 6x6 under it and let it back down. I’ve done exactly that a few times. I’ve removed rear tires by lifting it with a backhoe stabilizer too. Now anything I’m crawling under gets proper support. Either wood blocks or beefy jack stands. I won’t use dinky jack stands or the drive on ramps.

^^^^what he said!

check · Nov 24, 2019

I had constant slow leaks on my front tires. Kubota apparently updated the tires/rims, so I bought a new set. No problems since then.

PILOON · Nov 24, 2019

We talk of torque wrenches, and I have about 3 and all calibrated as well.
Whenever I carefully torque to specs, Heads, rims etc) I always seem to get that feeling that I just stripped the threads.
Consequently I now simply leave them in my tool box.

fried1765 · Nov 24, 2019

PILOON said:
We talk of torque wrenches, and I have about 3 and all calibrated as well.
Whenever I carefully torque to specs, Heads, rims etc) I always seem to get that feeling that I just stripped the threads.
Consequently I now simply leave them in my tool box.

I have two nice torque wrenches.
Unless the torque is something critical (like an engine head) I use the that's enough method also.

PILOON · Nov 25, 2019

In aviation much had to be torqued to specs.
Like slip clutches on autopilot servos, shucks every nut had a torque spec of some sort.
Also all torque tools needed an annual re certification with correction charts, costly!

I recall being chastened because my master compass was not calibrated,*
I replied that a magnet will always point north and no, I did not cut out 10 deg from the compass rose.

*annual certification included 'swinging' the compass and calibrating corrections on all cardinal points.
(A procedure that I suspect was frequently faked.)
Since we did many new avionic installations 'swinging' was an important aspect of the job.

repete · Nov 25, 2019

4570Man said:
Removing a tire and crawling under something aren’t even close to the same. You’re probably endangering yourself more to place the jack stand vs just pulling off the tire. I’d lift up the tractor with the loader and pull the lug nuts with my battery impact and then put a 6x6 under it and let it back down. I’ve done exactly that a few times. I’ve removed rear tires by lifting it with a backhoe stabilizer too. Now anything I’m crawling under gets proper support. Either wood blocks or beefy jack stands. I won’t use dinky jack stands or the drive on ramps.

Absolutely. I have had wheel issues in the field and lowered the bucket to the ground, lifted the front end with the loader and backed up to the barn using left and right brake. Changed many a flat tire this way.

Everything you do has an inherent degree of danger to it. Just think about what you are doing with the thought of what can go wrong with this plan. Jack stands in gravel or dirt, nope, 6x6's.